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Old 05-11-2023 | 11:12 PM
  #31  
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From: west central Michigan
Year: 1991
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Engine: 2.5L
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ok give me a minute.. I found the one I unplugged the vac hose..
i wanted to put something up about this rarity anyway lol
Old 05-11-2023 | 11:18 PM
  #32  
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itll be ready when its ready lol

Old 05-11-2023 | 11:48 PM
  #33  
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sorry it isn't in landscape and it really doesn't sound that bad in person..
Old 05-11-2023 | 11:49 PM
  #34  
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Year: 1988
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I'm sorry, the disconnected component is not familiar to me. For the fuel pressure, I read/watched reviews of the Maddox fuel pressure tester. No one commented on poor accuracy, the reading is probably valid. If you have a bicycle, or car tire, and you have the means to verify the pressure in it, you could do a quick and dirty calibration check of the fuel tester on a tire. Otherwise, I would go with that fuel pressure regulator being out of spec on the high side. I believe that will cause a rich running condition and reduced fuel economy. As far as the bleed down test, the only real drawback can be long cranking to start. If you are not having that problem, I wouldn't be that concerned about it. If it is your intention to replace the fuel injectors, that may fix the problem, if the problem is a leaking injector. Most likely though, it is the check valve in the fuel pump, and again not typically a significant issue.
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Old 05-12-2023 | 01:24 AM
  #35  
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From: west central Michigan
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ok well... I need to get through the gas thats in it anyway lol I just drove it around the block and got to 4th no problem.. not enough road to get to 5th..
no codes
heard something in the back.. probably something in the back... but I likely wanna put some fluid in rear diff.. the bottom is all wet.. i only have 1 qt right now..
but I feel ok enough to run a couple errands around town tomorrow.. to check it out
I dont smell any gas in the engine bay, I do smell wint o green though.. mmo.. I have to redo the dizzy...i moved that gasket around all day I was trying to install it so I am not really surprised it leaks.
I will get o rings.. Cruiser54 suggests it on his site for diagnosing oil leaks.. I can just hit the auto store (not napa) and hardware store and see if they have the appropriate size. 1 3/4 x 2 x 1/8 R30
since it seems ok right now.. but its not a lot hot out at the moment.. I will be ok I started it to move it forward a bit to remove my chock. restarted right away .. there may be beginning to be am intermittent long crank.. maybe in the morning.. but its not anywhere near a point where the note on most visors says the scary stuff about messing up a starter. I cranked it longer to do the compression test (around 5 or 6 times.)
maybe one of the almost 400 viewers can chime in on the new mystery part.. lol @pineapple_tree maybe can tell us (I didn't know I could do that lol)

Maybe I will get a better quality regulator. It works better on some level. the vac line, such as it is, doesn't smell like gas, but it was the absolute cheapest on rockauto. just add it to the cannon lol

thank you again.

Last edited by onestrongwriter; 05-12-2023 at 01:33 AM.
Old 05-12-2023 | 11:43 AM
  #36  
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From: west central Michigan
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Originally Posted by dmoe69
For your year and engine, the PCM (computer) is programed with preset values of fuel delivery at fuel pressures between 31 and 39 PSI based on vacuum, which it is constantly monitoring. By altering the width (duration of time) of the pulse to the fuel injectors, the PCM is able to deliver the right amount of fuel for all load demands of the engine. The PCM also validates correct fuel delivery by the feedback it is getting from the O2 sensor, as well as other sensor inputs like the TPS. If the fuel pressure is wrong, the PCM will be wrong.
Newer '90s XJs have higher fuel pressure, around 49 PSI, but they are engineered for that pressure.
hmm. I saw a few videos that say to reset the pcm after the injector replacement.. others say it has to learn... could that be a thing like if it learned to up the pressure due to a torn diaphram in the old regulator

Old 05-12-2023 | 12:08 PM
  #37  
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I'm much more versed in RENIX, there is no reset of that basic computer. My understanding of the PCM in your XJ is that if it is not exhibiting a code or having drivability issues, there is no reason to reset the PCM. A good practice, in the future, would be to title your threads to the problem you are having. You will get more attention from other members of the forum who have greater knowledge of the specific problem. It may even help to post that question in its own thread.
In the meantime, sounds like it will go down the road again, at least for short trips until you're more confident in it.
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Old 05-12-2023 | 12:39 PM
  #38  
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I kind of did then hijacked my own thread lol that stupid nut is still an issue. Initially I was looking for tips or tricks or even some "thats the wrong nut" support lol all I can find is stuck rusted out stuff.. I thought maybe that was some sort of locking nut that I really forever thought meant could never come apart again without cutting something.
Old 05-12-2023 | 05:10 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by dmoe69
If you are observing 39 PSI+ on the fuel pressure test gage, your fuel pump is working just fine and doesn't need replacing right now. You need a single, one piece vacuum hose from the vacuum source to the pressure regulator, either using a factory correct line or a single hose (5/16" may be a better fit). There can't be any suspicion the vacuum hose could/might be leaking/failure prone. The fuel pressure spec for your year/engine is 31 PSI with the vacuum connected, 39 PSI with the vacuum disconnected. If fuel pressure is 39 - 49, something is wrong with the fuel pressure regulator.
funny.. went to the auto parts first and they didn't have anything I needed, except maybe some brake cleaner and no idea how to repressurize the crc can I have thats like 3/4 full but out of propellant.. maybe I will try to explode it later.

hardware store
5/16 fuel line for small engines, the o ring, gear lube for the diff and why not.. a small tire gauge for 5 bucks..
the 5/16 line fits nicely.. and it is only 6 blocks and I came right home.. seems better.. I will do the fuel pressure test later

I found his dewalt cordless impact driver so I may try that on that nut..

hubby is staying where he is all weekend, so I may practice with these more powerful tools on the nuts on the rear diff... it may not be ideal but I can use some rtv on it and let her sit and cure over the weekend. if I decide to get a gasket I will make a new thread for help identifying it.. I may just take all the crap out of the back of jeep and see if all that I have back there is making the noise I hear..

see... this is why I considered just making a build thread lol

Last edited by onestrongwriter; 05-12-2023 at 06:03 PM.
Old 05-12-2023 | 10:33 PM
  #40  
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Old 05-13-2023 | 03:14 AM
  #41  
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ok the regulator is bad.. for s & gs I decided to put the old one back it.. shakes like a ...... but around 30 .... yes I took video however... I have editing to do and will turn all that stuff into a review video

dont get the cheapest one from rockauto.. itll be worth the 20 bucks. and I will put it with the info for the 20 dollar pressure tester I bought from amazon if it helps someone in the future not to make the same mistake.

tomorrow... I'm goin after that nut (also... only because I mentioned it.... there is a lovely pic chart of diffs/axles here.. and after cleaning it up I now know I have a dana 35.. and possibly not the c as I see bolts

you know... weird stuff happens.. the printer I have that hasn't used the paper tray in YEARS is printing out of the paper tray...
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