It's in an Aisin Warner training manual... MOPAR gave me a lot of those over the years.

 

If you don't have a drain plug in your transmission pan, install one. That makes the job easier and cleaner. I've taken more than one ATF shower myself.

As for the filter, it's a good idea BUT it only filters lube circuit oil. Your pan filter catches all the oil for all circuits. You still will need to change it regularly.

That's where the drain plug helps.

Budd

 

yeha i kno ill have to change fluids regularly and the drain plug aint the issue that this solves, it solves having to drop the pan to change the filter since it will no longer be in the tranny.

 

No filter in the tranny?

So, tell me something: what's going to be keeping the crud (generic technical term for metal particles, clutch / band friction material) out of your pump and the rest of the transmission: hydraulic circuits, valve bodies, clutches, and bands ( if applicable)?????

Do you think the designers of the transmission just might have had a reason for putting a filter there?

Trans cooler return flow is low pressure flow for splash lubrication and COOLING and only makes up the last leg of fluid flow before returning to the pan.

Budd

 

I've used spin-on conversion with various slushboxes with good results - but you'll find it easier if you have a filter mount with a horizontal line entry/exit than a vertical one.

Mount the filter "pendant style" (open end up,) and just pour it mostly full before you put it on the adapter, kinda like when you change fuel filters on a Diesel. No sense in waiting for the thing to fill up, and possibly sucking air...

 

thats why its gonna be plumbed on the input side of the cooler.

 

I would either gut a filter or fab a pickup tube in the tranny.

 

There is - for the AW4, it's just a metal strainer/pickup arrangement that wouldn't stop much but large metal bits. So, you'd be improving filtration anyhow (most other transmission filters I've seen still double as pickups, but have paper or fibre filters inbuilt that do actually require replacement.)

Leave the OEM pickup in place, filter the fluid before it gets back into the sump, and you'll be running rather cleaner. Just for good measure - when you do this, drop the pan and clean off the sump magnet as well (it's going to be furry - it will probably have "break-in" metal all over it. That's what it's there for.)

 

Okay. So not trying to say you are not correct but I alway like to double check info before I commit to something unknown. Do you have something that is documented regarding how the cooler bypass valve works? I can understand it bypassing the cooler if something was to restrict the fluid flow (like most oil systems have) but I would like to see where it talks about bypassing the cooler until a specific temp is reached.

Again, I want to stress I don't think you are lying, I just like to see documentation so I can make an informed decision.

Again, thanks for the info!

 

Any chance I can talk you into scanning any (or all?) of them? I'm trying to add as much as possible to the Archives here, and I'm trying to do a "one-stop tech shop" on my site.

Which is why I have FSMs, so far, going back to around 1963...

 

I tried to explain it the best I could.

Ok.

AMMCO's "trained" mechanics are standing by.

Budd (who had AAMCO screw up one trans and would never take another to them)

 

Bringing this back to the top.

Solderjunkie, is there a written part that explains the bypass valve, that you could scan in? I just want to verify that the bypass valve isn't just for if the cooler gets plugged but has a thermo bypass in it as well.

Thanks!