Will this repaired XJ tow cross country?
#1
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Will this repaired XJ tow cross country?
I bought a “great” 2001 automatic limited last year with 160k miles, turns out it had a cracked head, which has been repaired but the damage was done. Idle oil pressure is about 12-15 on a mechanical gauge.
im moving to Colorado from Brooklyn in October and the prices for moving a studio are more than I paid for the jeep! A U-Haul cargo trailer is $500-$1000 depending on size.
I’ve done 2000+ miles on it since and everything seems fine with the new Clearwater head...but would you guys have confidence in this thing towing a 5x8 or 6x12 to Colorado? Suspension is pretty old at this point too.
im moving to Colorado from Brooklyn in October and the prices for moving a studio are more than I paid for the jeep! A U-Haul cargo trailer is $500-$1000 depending on size.
I’ve done 2000+ miles on it since and everything seems fine with the new Clearwater head...but would you guys have confidence in this thing towing a 5x8 or 6x12 to Colorado? Suspension is pretty old at this point too.
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
How much weight will be towing? Factory hitch or aftermarket? What exactly do you mean by a "repaired head"? Replacement head? Repaired cracked head?
The idle oil pressure you mention would not concern me, my 2000 has had that same oil pressure for the 100k that I have owned it. The weight of the trailer, and the hills/mountains you will be traveling over would be my main concern. If you have an aftermarket hitch, I believe the max towing is 2,000 lbs. There was a recent discussion about towing with a factory set up vs a aftermarket one. That may be useful thread to you. I'll see if I can find it.
The idle oil pressure you mention would not concern me, my 2000 has had that same oil pressure for the 100k that I have owned it. The weight of the trailer, and the hills/mountains you will be traveling over would be my main concern. If you have an aftermarket hitch, I believe the max towing is 2,000 lbs. There was a recent discussion about towing with a factory set up vs a aftermarket one. That may be useful thread to you. I'll see if I can find it.
Last edited by jpz; 07-10-2020 at 02:23 PM.
#3
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Thank you jpz it’s a Clearwater head, replaced the cracked one. I don’t have a hitch, so would need an aftermarket one. I don’t think my one studio apartment of stuff could be more than 1500lbs (bed, desk top (no legs), dresser, small wood couch, some chairs, and boxes of stuff).
I wasn’t aware of the lower row rating on aftermarket hitches...U-Haul isn’t listing the weights of their cargo trailer on the quote page
I wasn’t aware of the lower row rating on aftermarket hitches...U-Haul isn’t listing the weights of their cargo trailer on the quote page
How much weight will be towing? Factory hitch or aftermarket? What exactly do you mean by a "repaired head"? Replacement head? ... There was a recent discussion about towing with a factory set up vs a aftermarket one. That may be useful thread to you. I'll see if I can find it.
#4
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Also, not sure if this makes a difference, but I was just going to have a hitch welded on, not use one of these bolt on aftermarket ones im seeing...if that does make a difference here
#5
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'd be more concerned about your suspension and brakes. Make sure you have trailer brakes.
#6
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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No, no, don't do that. The standard bolt-on is PLENTY strong. I have towed 4,000 pounds with mine many times, over some twisty, winding mountain roads. Frankly, I would trust is over any weld-on job.
Get the right trailer hitch, use the nut strips like the factory intended, and forget about messing up your XJ with a welding job on yoru uniframe.
Last edited by BlueRidgeMark; 07-10-2020 at 03:39 PM.
#7
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Agree with Blueridge. The bolt on hitch is fine. I recently towed about 3,000 lbs with my XJ. Granted it was local towing for a weekend, I didn't feel as though it was struggling. Make sure you do not use OD, you don't want to cook the trans as it keeps shifting between 3rd and OD.
I can't find the thread that previously mentioned the difference between factory and aftermarket hitches. Maybe one of the more senior members can find it, or chime in. I believe it was one of them that brought up the difference.
I can't find the thread that previously mentioned the difference between factory and aftermarket hitches. Maybe one of the more senior members can find it, or chime in. I believe it was one of them that brought up the difference.
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#8
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"I'd be more concerned about your suspension and brakes. Make sure you have trailer brakes."
^^ I'm with Mark on this. Also make sure your cooling system is in 100% top shape. You may want to consider an auxiliary trans cooler also. For sure make certain you have a front stabilizer (sway) bar and that it's hooked up.
^^ I'm with Mark on this. Also make sure your cooling system is in 100% top shape. You may want to consider an auxiliary trans cooler also. For sure make certain you have a front stabilizer (sway) bar and that it's hooked up.
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Year: 1989
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https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/5x8-U...ler-Rental/AO/
The 5x8 cargo trailer is 900lbs empty. The 6x12 cargo trailer is much heavier at 1920 lbs empty. U-haul also requires the curb weight of the tow vehicle to be at least 80% of the loaded weight of the trailer. With the Cherokee curb weight around 3000 lbs, they may not let you rent the 6x12.
#11
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Thanks guys, I think the 5x8 should be large enough, but I can’t find confirmation about it having trailer brakes.
Is OD keeping it in normal Drive, as opposed to dropping down to third? I read that helps to stay in the lower 3rd setting.
ill look into an external trans cooler, but I’ve never had any heating issues so far and it’s had a radiator flush this last December.
are there any well regarded hitches you would recommend, not going the welded way?
I plan to do a tune up on it before I got, oil, filter, and maybe/probably new pads upfront. I’ve replaced the bushings for the sway bar and those little rods (blanking on the name!) and lubed up the bearings up front as well.
Is OD keeping it in normal Drive, as opposed to dropping down to third? I read that helps to stay in the lower 3rd setting.
ill look into an external trans cooler, but I’ve never had any heating issues so far and it’s had a radiator flush this last December.
are there any well regarded hitches you would recommend, not going the welded way?
I plan to do a tune up on it before I got, oil, filter, and maybe/probably new pads upfront. I’ve replaced the bushings for the sway bar and those little rods (blanking on the name!) and lubed up the bearings up front as well.
#12
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I guess I am pretty worried about the transmission being damaged...how can you tell if it’s in good enough shape for a trip like this?
#13
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
#15
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4.0L, right?
I have a 2004, 4.0L WJ, I have used it for towing around another Grand Cherokee.. hundreds of miles. On mine, it is perfectly okay to keep the RPMs up high at 3000-3500rpm all day long for practically any length of time. Drop it right down into 2nd gear if needed while going uphill too.
Keep the RPMs up (2000rpm - 3000rpm).
I have a 2004, 4.0L WJ, I have used it for towing around another Grand Cherokee.. hundreds of miles. On mine, it is perfectly okay to keep the RPMs up high at 3000-3500rpm all day long for practically any length of time. Drop it right down into 2nd gear if needed while going uphill too.
Keep the RPMs up (2000rpm - 3000rpm).
Last edited by Noah911; 07-11-2020 at 01:41 AM.
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