Window Roller Handle - No clip/screw??? Removal ?
#1
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Window Roller Handle - No clip/screw??? Removal ?
As the title states, I have a window roller that I need to remove so I can remove the door panel. I looked it up and it says to pull the clip (w/ appro. tool). The problem is there is just no clip, can't see a clip, can't snag a clip.. nothing.
Also there is no screw or any other way to get this door handle off.
It's a 1993 XJ 2 door
Any Ideas ?
Also there is no screw or any other way to get this door handle off.
It's a 1993 XJ 2 door
Any Ideas ?
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Tracey (10-13-2019)
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Tracey (10-13-2019)
#5
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 Power Tech
As the title states, I have a window roller that I need to remove so I can remove the door panel. I looked it up and it says to pull the clip (w/ appro. tool). The problem is there is just no clip, can't see a clip, can't snag a clip.. nothing.
Also there is no screw or any other way to get this door handle off.
It's a 1993 XJ 2 door
Any Ideas ?
Also there is no screw or any other way to get this door handle off.
It's a 1993 XJ 2 door
Any Ideas ?
As stated above, you should be able to pull them straight off. You may need a little bit of leverage. Try prying with a wide blade flat screwdriver or something similar, using something under the blade to protect the door panel.
Or, just try pulling harder...
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Tracey (10-13-2019)
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
put the tips of your finger between the handle and the post it mounts on and pop it off takes two seconds not the arm the base
#10
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1987 4.0L (242 CID) I6 RENIX FI 242 173 hp (129 kW) @ 4600 rpm, 224 lb•ft (304 N-m) @ 4000RPM
the jeep has a common phrase when it comes to working and removing parts.
PRH - Pull Really Hard
I found that almost everything that needed to come off (i.e. window crank, gear selector) and there was not a visible screw to remove; the "manual" and everyone else said to just pull it off
you just give it a firm grasp and yank really good and it pops right off
PRH - Pull Really Hard
I found that almost everything that needed to come off (i.e. window crank, gear selector) and there was not a visible screw to remove; the "manual" and everyone else said to just pull it off
you just give it a firm grasp and yank really good and it pops right off
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Tracey (10-13-2019)
#11
Junior Member
Does PRH work on a '90 Cherokee?
Found about 5 threads about getting those window crank handles off. This is the most recent, so here I ask... Most everyone says just Pull Really Hard. But then some say that some years/models actually do have a clip and you need the proper tool.
What say ye re: a '90 Cherokee? (Doesn't matter much if I break it, I guess, as the handle part is long gone -- which is why I want to get it off.)
Also, I can't seem to find a new replacement handle in the GRAY to match my interior. Any suggestions where to look???
Thanks in advance.
CJ
What say ye re: a '90 Cherokee? (Doesn't matter much if I break it, I guess, as the handle part is long gone -- which is why I want to get it off.)
Also, I can't seem to find a new replacement handle in the GRAY to match my interior. Any suggestions where to look???
Thanks in advance.
CJ
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
Check dealerships, PAP yards, or maybe TeamCherokee or Morris for replacements.
Early handles do indeed pull straight off - I've had rigs so far from 1987-1990, and every instance was "get fingers under the thing and pop them off." No clips behind them (yes, I do have the tool. I work on pretty much everything that gets dumped in my lap...)
If they've been on for a few years, it can get difficult to do. I've made a couple of light-duty prying tools for stuff like this - go to the hardware store, get a longish (3') stick of shallow channel iron - I think I used a 1" width and a 1/4" overall depth.
- Cut into two 18" lengths.
- Clamp into your vice, about 4" from the end.
- Heat up the part just over the vice jaws with a propane torch - no need to go any farther than dull red (I don't think I even went that far, but I've formed a lot of steel.)
- Bend through about 30-40*, toward the open side of the channel (so the backside of the curve is flat.)
- Repeat with the other piece of channel.
- Allow to cool overnight.
This gives you a pretty solid mechanical advantage (about 14:4, or 3.5:1) when prying against something, shouldn't punch through the liner panel, and is useful for quite a bit (I eventually normalised mine in the oven to remove internal stresses - I've been using them on various projects for 12-15 years now.)
The crank handle is retained by a raised "bead" on the inside of the plastic bit mating into a groove on the regulator stem - but the handle is also splined to the stem, and that massively increases the surface area between them. This leads to the handle seizing on. Slip the two prying tools you just made under either side of the handle and press gently - once it moves, it's yours. You should not need to replace it, unless it's horribly faded and/or broken to begin with.
Clean the splines on the regulator stem, put a little grease on (I use white lithium spray grease - the lithium soap is antagonistic to fewer plastics than the petroleum, and a bit safer that way.) You should only need finger pressure to remove it next time, and the splines won't allow it to slip when you're cranking (if it does, you've stripped the splines and need to replace the handle.)
Early handles do indeed pull straight off - I've had rigs so far from 1987-1990, and every instance was "get fingers under the thing and pop them off." No clips behind them (yes, I do have the tool. I work on pretty much everything that gets dumped in my lap...)
If they've been on for a few years, it can get difficult to do. I've made a couple of light-duty prying tools for stuff like this - go to the hardware store, get a longish (3') stick of shallow channel iron - I think I used a 1" width and a 1/4" overall depth.
- Cut into two 18" lengths.
- Clamp into your vice, about 4" from the end.
- Heat up the part just over the vice jaws with a propane torch - no need to go any farther than dull red (I don't think I even went that far, but I've formed a lot of steel.)
- Bend through about 30-40*, toward the open side of the channel (so the backside of the curve is flat.)
- Repeat with the other piece of channel.
- Allow to cool overnight.
This gives you a pretty solid mechanical advantage (about 14:4, or 3.5:1) when prying against something, shouldn't punch through the liner panel, and is useful for quite a bit (I eventually normalised mine in the oven to remove internal stresses - I've been using them on various projects for 12-15 years now.)
The crank handle is retained by a raised "bead" on the inside of the plastic bit mating into a groove on the regulator stem - but the handle is also splined to the stem, and that massively increases the surface area between them. This leads to the handle seizing on. Slip the two prying tools you just made under either side of the handle and press gently - once it moves, it's yours. You should not need to replace it, unless it's horribly faded and/or broken to begin with.
Clean the splines on the regulator stem, put a little grease on (I use white lithium spray grease - the lithium soap is antagonistic to fewer plastics than the petroleum, and a bit safer that way.) You should only need finger pressure to remove it next time, and the splines won't allow it to slip when you're cranking (if it does, you've stripped the splines and need to replace the handle.)
#13
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
every handle i've ever had to remove has just pulled off (done this on rigs from an 84 to a 2001. to my knowledge no XJ ever had clips holding it on. Pull away!
#14
Junior Member
Check dealerships, PAP yards, or maybe TeamCherokee or Morris for replacements.
Early handles do indeed pull straight off - I've had rigs so far from 1987-1990, and every instance was "get fingers under the thing and pop them off." No clips behind them (yes, I do have the tool. I work on pretty much everything that gets dumped in my lap...)
If they've been on for a few years, it can get difficult to do. I've made a couple of light-duty prying tools for stuff like this -
Early handles do indeed pull straight off - I've had rigs so far from 1987-1990, and every instance was "get fingers under the thing and pop them off." No clips behind them (yes, I do have the tool. I work on pretty much everything that gets dumped in my lap...)
If they've been on for a few years, it can get difficult to do. I've made a couple of light-duty prying tools for stuff like this -
But I gotta say --
Originally Posted by dukie564
every handle i've ever had to remove has just pulled off
And yeah, the handle on the one I need to replace was snapped off years ago. (But at least the window still cranks and hasn't seized up....)
CJ