Windows inoperable
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: North Carolina
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Windows inoperable
First off hi. Now I know this has been covered before but I'm completely stumped. None of my windows work from any location. I have replaced the drivers and passenger control panels with no luck. I've check every fuse both under the hood and on the kick panel. I have looked for broken wires inside of the black tubes. The only thing that does work is the door locks but only from the passenger panel. Again I know this has been talked about before but I really need some fresh ideas with this.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No I havent tried that one yet. Could that Still be the problem even though I replaced the drivers control panel?
#6
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I don't think so, but I try to never leave any stones unturned. You said that you checked the wires in the rubber boot between the body and the door?
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#8
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None of my windows operated, either. I eventually traced it to broken power wires to the right front and two rear windows. I pulled the harness out of the driver's door, peeled the tape from it and found 5 broken wires. I butt-spliced them in a staggered manner, to keep from creating a localized bulge of bunched-up splices, and temporarily plugged the harness back in outside of the normal routing. That got all windows operable again. Then I unplugged it, wrapped it with electrical tape and correctly routed it back in place.
I would not try the paperclip thing. Do it right. Remember, that harness has been bending in two directions for a long time, and much more so than any other door harness. All the wires in it are now work-fatigued and close to breaking, if not already, so remove it, open it up and locate all the spots along the individual wire lengths that are fatigued/broken and repair them. Start by removing the door panel and taking a pic of the routing of the harness. Then do the work.
The work involved is not moving mountains but it is a meticulous stepXstep exercise so take your time. Don't forget to install the rubber fairlead boot between the door and door jamb when reinstalling. The blue butt splices are the correct size but crimp them with the proper crimping tool. Once crimped, hold the wire on either side of the crimp and give it a tug to ensure the crimp is tight. If you want to get real fancy slide a length of proper size polyolephin heat shrink tubing on the wire before crimping the splice, slide it back over the splice after crimping and doing the tug test, and shrink it down.
All material - splices, tool, electrical tape and shrink tubing - is available at The Home Depot.
I would not try the paperclip thing. Do it right. Remember, that harness has been bending in two directions for a long time, and much more so than any other door harness. All the wires in it are now work-fatigued and close to breaking, if not already, so remove it, open it up and locate all the spots along the individual wire lengths that are fatigued/broken and repair them. Start by removing the door panel and taking a pic of the routing of the harness. Then do the work.
The work involved is not moving mountains but it is a meticulous stepXstep exercise so take your time. Don't forget to install the rubber fairlead boot between the door and door jamb when reinstalling. The blue butt splices are the correct size but crimp them with the proper crimping tool. Once crimped, hold the wire on either side of the crimp and give it a tug to ensure the crimp is tight. If you want to get real fancy slide a length of proper size polyolephin heat shrink tubing on the wire before crimping the splice, slide it back over the splice after crimping and doing the tug test, and shrink it down.
All material - splices, tool, electrical tape and shrink tubing - is available at The Home Depot.
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