Windshield question
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Windshield question
Apologies for limited contributions...life gets in the way sometimes.
Have read the various threads regarding windshield replacement and appreciate all of those who have contributed.
So I am trying to get my mostly idle 2000 xj back into respectable shape. One of the things is the windshield molding. There are several areas...
Upper driver's side
Upper passenger's side (gap)
Lower passenger's side
As can be seen there are a couple of areas of rust on the upper and lower portions of the windshield frame. The gap has me wondering if extreme rust has lifted the molding.
I am debating as to whether to...
Try to remove glass, clean channel well...scrape/remove surface rust, metal prep, POR-15, touch up paint on exposed areas, clean edge of windshield, install new molding, and reset the original glass. I'd like to keep the vehicle, been good for 21 yrs. thus far, but would like to take care of this before things get worse. I know, I know..."you won't know what it is like underneath until you remove the glass" but would like to get some feedback, based on the pictures, as to how bad things underneath may be since many, many more have delt with this and seen more than I have.
Only other option would be to find a reputable body shop that knows what they are doing and have them do everything. Is it worth the cost to have a shop do this on a 21 y.o. vehicle? I know this is a personal choice depending on cost.
Several hundred $$$ wouldn't be too bad IMO. Again, I know it'll depend on what there is to work with once the glass is removed.
Thoughts?
Can the old glass be reused if cleaned properly and a new molding installed on it?
(Hope the pics are not too big. Haven't posted any on-line in some time)
Have read the various threads regarding windshield replacement and appreciate all of those who have contributed.
So I am trying to get my mostly idle 2000 xj back into respectable shape. One of the things is the windshield molding. There are several areas...
Upper driver's side
Upper passenger's side (gap)
Lower passenger's side
As can be seen there are a couple of areas of rust on the upper and lower portions of the windshield frame. The gap has me wondering if extreme rust has lifted the molding.
I am debating as to whether to...
Try to remove glass, clean channel well...scrape/remove surface rust, metal prep, POR-15, touch up paint on exposed areas, clean edge of windshield, install new molding, and reset the original glass. I'd like to keep the vehicle, been good for 21 yrs. thus far, but would like to take care of this before things get worse. I know, I know..."you won't know what it is like underneath until you remove the glass" but would like to get some feedback, based on the pictures, as to how bad things underneath may be since many, many more have delt with this and seen more than I have.
Only other option would be to find a reputable body shop that knows what they are doing and have them do everything. Is it worth the cost to have a shop do this on a 21 y.o. vehicle? I know this is a personal choice depending on cost.
Several hundred $$$ wouldn't be too bad IMO. Again, I know it'll depend on what there is to work with once the glass is removed.
Thoughts?
Can the old glass be reused if cleaned properly and a new molding installed on it?
(Hope the pics are not too big. Haven't posted any on-line in some time)
#2
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Engine: 4.0
Apology refused, as not needed at all.
Do it. At least get that windshield out and assess the damage. Like you said, you can't be sure until it's out, but I think you have probably got problems in there. Get the glass out and see how bad it is.
Then you can decide if you want to turn it over to the body shop or not.
Pull it, clean it up, and post pics here, and we'll opine on it. (And no, your pics are not too big.)
Yes, no problem.
I am debating as to whether to...
Try to remove glass, clean channel well...scrape/remove surface rust, metal prep, POR-15, touch up paint on exposed areas, clean edge of windshield, install new molding, and reset the original glass. I'd like to keep the vehicle, been good for 21 yrs. thus far, but would like to take care of this before things get worse.
Try to remove glass, clean channel well...scrape/remove surface rust, metal prep, POR-15, touch up paint on exposed areas, clean edge of windshield, install new molding, and reset the original glass. I'd like to keep the vehicle, been good for 21 yrs. thus far, but would like to take care of this before things get worse.
Do it. At least get that windshield out and assess the damage. Like you said, you can't be sure until it's out, but I think you have probably got problems in there. Get the glass out and see how bad it is.
Then you can decide if you want to turn it over to the body shop or not.
Pull it, clean it up, and post pics here, and we'll opine on it. (And no, your pics are not too big.)
#3
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Hi BRM and thanks for your responses.
Your input on other threads have been most of the threads regarding windshield issues I have been reading. Read them al!
Hoping to do this sometime within the next month or so. I have found a garage I can keep it in to work on over the Winter so hopefully there won't be a lot of water running down into things. Damage is obviously done. Now just a matter of assessment.
Oh, another thought...what about the shims I see in the parts catalog? Think these will be salvageable? Have not been able to find replacements despite having a part number.
Your input on other threads have been most of the threads regarding windshield issues I have been reading. Read them al!
Hoping to do this sometime within the next month or so. I have found a garage I can keep it in to work on over the Winter so hopefully there won't be a lot of water running down into things. Damage is obviously done. Now just a matter of assessment.
Oh, another thought...what about the shims I see in the parts catalog? Think these will be salvageable? Have not been able to find replacements despite having a part number.
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I was always confused by that myself cause they do show them in the parts catalogs.
I had mine done in my '00 so can't say one way or the other if they exist for sure.
In my '00 parts catalog there is just one part number, 55235796AA, looks like a quantity of 2, they refer to it as a spacer, and it looks like for the bottom.
In my '94 to '96 parts catalog there are 2 part numbers, 55052617, for a quantity of 2, also referred to as a spacer, and for the top.
55002604 for a quantity of 2 and for the bottom. Again referred to as a spacer.
Don't quote me on this but kinda think I read that if you use the molding from a '97 and up on a '96 and down it would work and you can get rid of all the window trim.
I had mine done in my '00 so can't say one way or the other if they exist for sure.
In my '00 parts catalog there is just one part number, 55235796AA, looks like a quantity of 2, they refer to it as a spacer, and it looks like for the bottom.
In my '94 to '96 parts catalog there are 2 part numbers, 55052617, for a quantity of 2, also referred to as a spacer, and for the top.
55002604 for a quantity of 2 and for the bottom. Again referred to as a spacer.
Don't quote me on this but kinda think I read that if you use the molding from a '97 and up on a '96 and down it would work and you can get rid of all the window trim.
#6
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Okay, that makes sense, but they are really not needed.
Attach the rubber trim to the windshield with a dab of some non-permanent adhesive (or just use masking tape), apply the urethane, drop the windshield in place, then a couple of strips of masking tape over the windshield to the top of the roof to hold it in place, and allow it to cure. You can eyeball the location, and you have a few minutes to play with it to get it right. It does help to have an assistant here, and suction cup handles really help.
If you don't have something (spacers or tape) to hold the windshield in place, it will sag down and you will have a mess.
And yes, you are correct. You can use the rubber molding on the earlier models and get rid of the aluminum. The window frame and the glass is identical.
Attach the rubber trim to the windshield with a dab of some non-permanent adhesive (or just use masking tape), apply the urethane, drop the windshield in place, then a couple of strips of masking tape over the windshield to the top of the roof to hold it in place, and allow it to cure. You can eyeball the location, and you have a few minutes to play with it to get it right. It does help to have an assistant here, and suction cup handles really help.
If you don't have something (spacers or tape) to hold the windshield in place, it will sag down and you will have a mess.
And yes, you are correct. You can use the rubber molding on the earlier models and get rid of the aluminum. The window frame and the glass is identical.
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