Won't start
#1
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So sometimes when I'm going down a hill, I'll pop my 1999 Jeep Cherokee into neutral, and just coast the rest of the way down. Well I did this yesterday and I accidentally slipped it into reverse too, I quickly pulled it back into neutral, but it had already shut the car off. After a few minutes I finally got it started again, and drove for about 15 more minutes till I got home. I came to start the car this mornin and it won't start. I hooked it up to our F-350 with cables and it still won't start, any ideas of what the problem is, and how to fix it?
#7
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So as of now you turn the key to the START position and nothing happens. But in the ON position the electrics all seem to work and stay on. You tried jumping the starter?
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#8
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Take the battery terminal clamps off and lightly sand (fine sandpaper or scotchbright pad) both the clamps and the battery posts. Often a weak/bad connection will let accessories to run, but not enough to power for the starter to turn.
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Only the LED's will turn on, nothing else, no dash lights or anything. Car is completely dead. Haven't tried the starter yet.
May take battery down the road and check it out
May take battery down the road and check it out
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Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
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I had this canned, thought this a good place to post it again;
Battery gases have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so if you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!
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No Start, No Click?
If you hold the key over, and jiggle the shifter in park or neutral and it starts, it's your NSS. http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/
Battery gases have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so if you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No Start, No Click?
If you hold the key over, and jiggle the shifter in park or neutral and it starts, it's your NSS. http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/
Last edited by DFlintstone; 04-06-2017 at 02:09 PM.