*it wont stay running unless key is held in ON POSTISTION. Any guidence*
#1
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 26
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From: MASS
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
*it wont stay running unless key is held in ON POSTISTION. Any guidence*
i need to do floor patching and then today it wont start what i think i need to do is PUSH start wire or somthing i did buy a new ignition and key because it will only stay runnin unlees i hold the key on run i need some advice on repair i did a search but still nothing. thanks!
#3
1) It's bad netiquette to bump your own post - chances are, whoever might have an answer hasn't logged on yet. Doing so tends to clog up the servers... (I understand your frustration - but be cool.)
2) Sounds like the electrical portion of your ignition switch is failing. The ignition switch on the XJ - or most other column-mounted key locks - is in two parts: the physical key lock proper, and the electrical part down by the firewall. The two are connected by an operating rod.
Up through 1996, the XJ used a GM column, and replacing the ignition switch on it takes about twenty minutes (I could probably shave five minutes off of that if I didn't remove the driver's seat first, but I need the room.) I'm not sure about 1997-up models with the ChryCo column, but I think it's similar.
Should be two studs/screws holding the thing down, and the electrical connexion is either one or two parts. Be sure to specify whether you have tilt column or not when sourcing a replacement!
2) Sounds like the electrical portion of your ignition switch is failing. The ignition switch on the XJ - or most other column-mounted key locks - is in two parts: the physical key lock proper, and the electrical part down by the firewall. The two are connected by an operating rod.
Up through 1996, the XJ used a GM column, and replacing the ignition switch on it takes about twenty minutes (I could probably shave five minutes off of that if I didn't remove the driver's seat first, but I need the room.) I'm not sure about 1997-up models with the ChryCo column, but I think it's similar.
Should be two studs/screws holding the thing down, and the electrical connexion is either one or two parts. Be sure to specify whether you have tilt column or not when sourcing a replacement!
#5
Look under the IP, at the column. Replacing it is fairly simple - make sure the key is in the OFF/LOCK position before you get started, since that's where the new switch will be. Don't bend the operating rod!
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