AP400

Hello all, new to the forum. My ATF burn in my trans. I caught it right after it happened. When I dropped the pan there looked to be what I think was a single tooth from a disk in the clutch pack that broke off and was stuck on a pan magnet (pictures long gone). I changed the ATF and have gone about 10,000 miles on it without issue. Yesterday after sitting for two years with a small leak I filled the trans and added a pint of seafoam trans tune. After 200 additional miles this is what the pan and ATF looks like. I am paranoid that it will break over landing. Would you trust it or should I look for a replacement? I did the smears.


Here she is, parting ways is not an option for me.

Roler

How many miles on it?

AP400

199k

That Jeep Guy XJMJ

If your travels are relatively close to home and the potential for having to be towed/trailered home don't bother you then go have fun.

If it'd got you unsteady then start looking for a replacement Trans. They are typically pretty easy to come by cheap as they don't go bad that often.

I'm gonna avoid any input on the fluid you use because that could be a whole other dead horse thread topic

AP400

Thank you for your input, I am using dex3/merc. I just feel stupid for letting the fluid burn...

00t444e

AW4s are tough transmissions, I would run it as is. I have seen them do that then go thousands of miles more once clean fluid was added.

robsjeep

Keep the engine rpms up by down shifting so the torque converter does not slip. slipping creates a lot of tranny heat. big tires without regearing make slipping even worse unless you down shift. Unfortunately these aw4 trannies has a combined 1 and 2 lever selector position. This means it may put you into 2nd, with slipping rather than 1st with no slipping.
The fix is to do an electrical modification by adding a switch so you can force the tranny to stay in 1st or in second when the shift lever is in the 1 / 2 position. This is specially critical when wheeling. There are write ups on the web on how this simple modification is done.

I got it, so does my wheeling buddy. The switch means we can prevent slip in many situations. We can see via a tranny fluid temperature gage the drastic change in fluid temps as soon as the torque converter starts to slip. on steep highway roads be sure to down shift to 3rd or even 2nd as speed allows, never let the tranny slip except at stops!

that said, the otherthing is to add an auxiliary tranny cooler.

But again, the best thing is to keep her in a gear that wont have the torque converter slip. for wheelers you need to add the 1 or 2 lock switch. down shift when ever she slips.

If you have a tranny temp gage you will be amazed how drastic the temps rise with even a little slipping!

Since you got junk in the tranny, an auxiliary filter can be added to keep fluid extra clean
Magnafine makes a filter, splice it into the tranny outlet oil cooler hose. I have done so.

Roler

so the ATF had burned only once and since then you've put over 10K miles on it. Just drive it.
Ive put the aw4 in reverse once while going forward at 50km/hr. It didnt like it and I had to promise to not do that again. It has never played up.
Keep your fluid clean.

To answer your question: I don't even trust it on road but it has never let me down.. Just because it's 25+years old car.

jakeepoo3

I overland solo, there's no way I would feel cozy and comfortable out in the wilderness with teeth on my magnets. Your fluid shouldn't be burning period. Yeah that tranny is a beast and may go forever or it might f_ck you at any moment.. especially on trail. That's a sexy, very valuable jeep! Probably be a good investment to just replace and be worry free.

awg

fit a trans temp gauge

like all auto transmissions, the AW4 lifespan is largely dictated by its heat cycle, so if it often runs hot, that will reduce its lifespan

I believe they last a long time in cold climates, but not so long in hot

I have mine fitted in the torque convertor output, which reads max trans temp

It normally and should run ~80C

Heat and load will cause the temp to rise, and I dont like it if it reaches 105C (about 220F), usually it will stabilise, but if not, it wants to run away quickly

The highest it has got is 250F, at which point I stopped. Highest recommended trans fluid temp is 230F

This trans can cook, and you lose reverse, not sure whether its clutches or seals, but I have not boiled one, have lost reverse on 2

fluid temps read much lower if the sensor is in the pan, which is misleading

I have an aftermarket trans cooler which is more than double the factory one

In winter, my trans runs at 60-80C