SlickXJ

Noticed it when I looked at buying it but it didn't seem to affect it, so I just made him drop the price a little because of it (as I did for a lot of stuff that was wrong with my baby :P) Anyways, a few months back I noticed something would squeak a bit when it reached peak RPM after gassing right before a shift. Now it'll do it if I gas it hard at all, regardless of RPM. It'll just squeak for a second if it does squeak. But since it's getting progressively worse, I'd like to fix it before it gets too bad. Do you guys think it could be the AC compressor flexing a bit when getting gassed causing the belt to squeak? I haven't tried to locate where the squeak is specifically coming from, but I figured since it has a relatively new belt on it (<3k) it shouldn't be that. I've been wrong before though. Belt still looks good, no cracks/fraying/etc.

Also if you do believe it to be the AC compressor, how would I go about correcting the holes? I haven't tried taking the bolts out because if they did force it in, I don't want to mess it up until I'm ready to fix it. But if they used the right size bolts but they're just long, then I'd just need to go to the junkyard and pull some (and some other stuff while I'm there!) My dad said to tap the holes, and he's got a set of taps. Sorry for rambling, just trying to make sure I get everything out there. Thanks guys!

EDIT: Inserted the picture I forgot to originally include.

NM-XJ

Ah - the mechanical engineer's motto: "If it doesn't fit, force it!"

It's hard to say if those bolts were forced in. That would be a matter of thread fitment...

It is obvious, however, that those bolts are indeed too long. That side of the compressor isn't being clamped at all, just pinned in location. I suppose it could be the source of a chirp. Regardless, replace with the right size bolts and torque to spec. Then check your belt adjustment.

SeriousOffroad

Normal.
Steel bolts with loc-tite into and aluminum bracket.
Get an impact gun and get busy....or eat more Wheaties.

Muddz

The bolts on my 98 are a flanged head - M10-1.5 x 90.0 mm.

I would pull the bolts out and measure for width and thread size. If another thread bolt size is used, try tapping the holes the same size as the pulled bolts.

The stock bolts appear to be similar to a grade 2 (metric 5.8) , when over tighten sometimes break off. The mount for the compressor is light aluminum type alloy. Some caution is required when pulling bolts, drilling and tapping.


http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/taphole.htm
http://www.stanleyengineeredfastenin...ize-charts.pdf

CCKen

Actually the bolts should be M8-1.25x100 mm.


The bracket is the same for 1996 to 2001, part number 53011002.


The post '96 parts catalogs are wrong when they say M10-1.5x90 mm. Going back to the '96 catalog they got it right, i.e., M8-1.25x100 mm (flange head).


100 mm flange head bolts are hard to find. You can use a cap screw with a flat washer instead.


https://www.fastenal.com/products/de...goryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600001 Bolts"|~ ~|categoryl3:"600003 Cap Screws 9and Hex Bolts"|~ ~|sattr01:^Metric$|~ ~|sattr02:^Steel$|~ ~|sattr03:^"Hex Cap Screw"$|~ ~|sattr04:^M8-1.25$|~ ~|attrlength:170200|~


Below is a pic of my spare AC Bracket that I rebuilt. I had to Helicoil two bolt holes because they were buggered up from corrosion.

Muddz

Thanks for the update. I couldn't remember the exact bolt size. Original message wrote that they were M8's, 125's, that's what I remembered while working on the compressor.

I removed the compressor and added a bypass pulley. Rarely ever needed A/C because of all the cold & wet weather.

The 98 OE parts manual has listed.

2 06502957 1 J, T ER0 BOLT, Hex Flange Head, M10-1.5x90.0

53011002 1 J, T ER0 BRACKET, A/C Compressor, With Idler Mounting


The OE bolts when over tightened and possibly corroded can easily break. The OE bolts may need to be loosened carefully, (part of the bolt is above the threads and can become twisted and break)

I'd make sure the hole is the right size before using a tap. The aluminum alloy isn't able to take a lot stress from drilling and tapping, potentially will break off or crack.

CCKen

If the threaded holes aren't butchered too badly they can be Helicoiled.


The Helicoil drill is 21/64", and the tap is a Helicoil 570-8.


So, if you remove the compressor and a 21/64 drill fits loosely in the holes it's to far gone for a M8-1.25 Helicoil.

Muddz

I just wanted to point out, drilling and tapping aluminum isn't the same as steel ... aluminum has a tendency to split and crack.

CCKen

I've found when drilling Aluminum that a sharp drill, slow drill speed, and tap oil works. But, yes, careful progression is required.


Tapping requires tap oil and periodically stopping to blow out the hole of shavings.

Muddz

Good tips, especially for aluminum, sharp drill, slow speed drilling, tap oil, remove shavings and careful progression. Those techniques are fairly common when working and drilling any type of metal. One problem I have when drilling steel is finding the right drill.

El_Guapo

Those longer bolts appear to have SAE head markings, so the threads are probably pretty much done.

I would try chasing them first, then drilling and installing either Helicoils or Swageserts to repair the holes.

I'd fix that sooner rather than later - any loose component is liable to turn into a big problem in a hurry.

When you reassemble, anti-seez is your friend, and should ALWAYS be used with dissimilar metals.

SlickXJ

Instead of going through all that tapping and such, what about going to the yard and just pulling a new bracket? Would that be the easiest? Last time I was there they had a ton of XJs from 89-01, so I'm sure I can find one.

CCKen

1996 thru 2001 (only) will work, but be aware that the gearing in the bracket may be shot. You'll have to examine it before buying it. Turn the shaft and see if it feels smooth, pull in and out on the shaft to make sure it isn't loose.


Also be aware that the compressor mount bolt holes may be corroded.

SlickXJ

Oh yea, I was just giving an example about the years. Would it be worth a shot or should I just stick to helicoiling my current bracket?

CCKen

Price out the Helicoil kits and a 21/64" drill bit. Check with the junk yards on what they would want for a bracket.


Pull the compressor up and out of the way [do not disconnect the refrigerant lines] and take a look at the bolt holes. See how deep the damage is from those SAE bolts. If you're lucky, there still may be some M8 threads left. Get an M8-1.25 mm bolt from the hardware store and try the fit in the holes.


If the M8 threads are too deep in the hole for a good grip you may have to Helicoil the hole(s).


If the fit is good and the damage isn't too deep, get two M8-1.25x100 mm bolts (see link in my previous post) and some flat washers and bolt it down,