Wrong AC compressor bolts forced in?
07-23-2015, 10:50 AM
#16
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07-23-2015, 02:44 PM
#17
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
Price out the Helicoil kits and a 21/64" drill bit. Check with the junk yards on what they would want for a bracket.
Pull the compressor up and out of the way [do not disconnect the refrigerant lines] and take a look at the bolt holes. See how deep the damage is from those SAE bolts. If you're lucky, there still may be some M8 threads left. Get an M8-1.25 mm bolt from the hardware store and try the fit in the holes.
If the M8 threads are too deep in the hole for a good grip you may have to Helicoil the hole(s).
If the fit is good and the damage isn't too deep, get two M8-1.25x100 mm bolts (see link in my previous post) and some flat washers and bolt it down,
Pull the compressor up and out of the way [do not disconnect the refrigerant lines] and take a look at the bolt holes. See how deep the damage is from those SAE bolts. If you're lucky, there still may be some M8 threads left. Get an M8-1.25 mm bolt from the hardware store and try the fit in the holes.
If the M8 threads are too deep in the hole for a good grip you may have to Helicoil the hole(s).
If the fit is good and the damage isn't too deep, get two M8-1.25x100 mm bolts (see link in my previous post) and some flat washers and bolt it down,
07-23-2015, 03:48 PM
#19
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0L
There seems to be more poor quality drills the market than there use to be. Stronger steels usually require a different quality steel drill. Mild steel also has problems with some drills made for drilling steel.
Alum. may require more care when drilling, tapping, removing broken bolts, etc. Remains of the steel bolt seem to stick to the alum. better (from corrosion and over torquing , requiring additional tapping to remove, possibly ruining the bolt hole because of the softness of alum.
My Jeep has excessive corrosion in different areas around the engine, suspension and body sometimes effecting fasteners, bolts, nuts etc.
Last edited by Muddz; 07-26-2015 at 03:27 AM.
07-23-2015, 05:13 PM
#20
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Before committing to replacing the bracket or putting in an insert, try chasing the threads with a tap (or better yet, a chaser). I've done a lot of repairs on M8 holes that someone "sort of" got a 5/16-18 into. In most cases, a chased hole will still hold without too much increase in the clearance.
Putting Helicoils in would be about a 20-30 minute job, much quicker than changing the mount out. the kit is usually around $18 to $20 for 5/16-18. Use a new bit, a fairly slow speed with moderate down pressure and lots of lubricant (I really like 3 in 1 oil for aluminum). Same thing when tapping the holes - oil is cheap, use it. I personally like to use Loctite on coils when I install them as well. Use some anti-seez when you go back together and it'll last forever.
07-23-2015, 08:48 PM
#21
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
Ah, thought I'd get lucky and it'd mean it wasn't SAE :\
No tick marks or anything. Smooth head with the 3 letters.
What's the difference between a tap and a chaser?
So if I take a 21/64 bit and it slips in the bracket holes then what should I do? Do I need to go up a size or is that even an option?
When you find a 3 letter code like that, it usually is indicative of a cheap hardware store bolt that will almost invariably be a marginal grade 1 SAE. Are there any raised tick marks around the head? If no marks and no "x.x" number, it is a grade 1 SAE.
Before committing to replacing the bracket or putting in an insert, try chasing the threads with a tap (or better yet, a chaser). I've done a lot of repairs on M8 holes that someone "sort of" got a 5/16-18 into. In most cases, a chased hole will still hold without too much increase in the clearance.
Putting Helicoils in would be about a 20-30 minute job, much quicker than changing the mount out. the kit is usually around $18 to $20 for 5/16-18. Use a new bit, a fairly slow speed with moderate down pressure and lots of lubricant (I really like 3 in 1 oil for aluminum). Same thing when tapping the holes - oil is cheap, use it. I personally like to use Loctite on coils when I install them as well. Use some anti-seez when you go back together and it'll last forever.
Before committing to replacing the bracket or putting in an insert, try chasing the threads with a tap (or better yet, a chaser). I've done a lot of repairs on M8 holes that someone "sort of" got a 5/16-18 into. In most cases, a chased hole will still hold without too much increase in the clearance.
Putting Helicoils in would be about a 20-30 minute job, much quicker than changing the mount out. the kit is usually around $18 to $20 for 5/16-18. Use a new bit, a fairly slow speed with moderate down pressure and lots of lubricant (I really like 3 in 1 oil for aluminum). Same thing when tapping the holes - oil is cheap, use it. I personally like to use Loctite on coils when I install them as well. Use some anti-seez when you go back together and it'll last forever.
What's the difference between a tap and a chaser?
So if I take a 21/64 bit and it slips in the bracket holes then what should I do? Do I need to go up a size or is that even an option?
07-24-2015, 08:28 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Ah, thought I'd get lucky and it'd mean it wasn't SAE :\
No tick marks or anything. Smooth head with the 3 letters.
What's the difference between a tap and a chaser?
So if I take a 21/64 bit and it slips in the bracket holes then what should I do? Do I need to go up a size or is that even an option?
No tick marks or anything. Smooth head with the 3 letters.
What's the difference between a tap and a chaser?
So if I take a 21/64 bit and it slips in the bracket holes then what should I do? Do I need to go up a size or is that even an option?
07-24-2015, 09:03 AM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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Ah, thought I'd get lucky and it'd mean it wasn't SAE :\
No tick marks or anything. Smooth head with the 3 letters.
What's the difference between a tap and a chaser?
So if I take a 21/64 bit and it slips in the bracket holes then what should I do? Do I need to go up a size or is that even an option?
No tick marks or anything. Smooth head with the 3 letters.
What's the difference between a tap and a chaser?
So if I take a 21/64 bit and it slips in the bracket holes then what should I do? Do I need to go up a size or is that even an option?
You should start by doing what I suggested in post #15. Lift the compressor out of the way and check the bolt holes.
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