odgreen

Usually length stretch will cause the support strands to snap causing the rubber to swell. Same ish bro

I Leak Oil

Blah blah blah.

Go work on a damn muscle car.....

odgreen

Can't making fun of nsk guy

zombie jeep101

Lol^^

I Leak Oil

Lol

Chumbucket

I was tryin to replace my front running lightbulb yesterday and could not get the sucker to come out of the housing. Spent like 30 min on it. Any tricks? I'm to the point of wanting to cut the wires and order another.

dukie564

your what? are you talking about the front amber marker light?

PUSH - TWIST - PULL

DESERTXJ206

With the head off for a head gasket job how easy would it be to replace the push rods and lifters? Also my odometer shows 248k miles, would it be a bad idea to replace the rods and lifters?

dukie564

you could, but I don't see the point if they're not overly worn. They're just pieces of metal, nothing really to go wrong except irregular wear patterns. Make sure none of the lifters are collapsed or stuck/gummed up and the wear patterns look ok.

If you feel like you should replace something while the head's off - I'd recommend the valve seals.


Note that if your head bolts have paint on them - replace them. If not, mark them with paint after re-installing the head - they can only be re-used once.

DESERTXJ206

Yeah I planned to have the head done while its off, I was just wondering because I'm getting a loud tap/tick and I know its normal for these engines but it has gotten a lot louder over that past couple months. It will start when the engine reaches opp temp. I'm using 10-40 oil with additives. My rear main seal leaks so I add Some fresh oil every couple weeks to top it off.

Would you reccomend cleaning the pistons with anything or just leaving that?

dukie564

I'd leave the pistons alone unless they have really heavy buildup, in which case just carefully scrape the gunk off and clean the dish out.

Part of your issue is probably using such a heavy oil, and additives on top of that. 10W-30 is the weight the engine lubrication system is designed for, by running a heavier oil you're raising the viscosity (resistance to FLOW), which is what lubricates the engine. This makes it harder for the engine to pump the oil, and results in poorer lubrication and increased wear.

And forget about additives - most do nothing to help - millions of dollars are spent on the production of motor oil - if and engine needs something, it'll already be included in the oil itself. Additives throw the formula off.

Kylehffm

Hey guys I know there are numerous threads about this but nothing super specific to my case. I have 93 xj 4.0 automatic that is having hesitation and hiccups at idle and cruising (2k-2500 rpms). I have replaced the coil, cps, distributor, plugs, wires, cleaned my NSS thoroughly, new IAC valve, cleaned the throttle body, new fuel filter, checked pressure in rail (40lbs), and I'm pretty stumped at to what I should look for next... Please help!

Thanks
Kyle

wiggles

Have you checked your tps?

Kylehffm

Yes the TPS is working properly.

munchkin

hi guys i need your help ive got a jeep cherokee 4.0 auto 1998,ive just put a new radiator in it and a new thermostat,and im still not getting hot air blowing into cab.my main big pipes are hot my cooling pipes ones hot the other is cool could it be my water pump thats buggerd HELP PLEASE one lady owner in distress thanks xx