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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Albuquerque
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
on my 91, you just turn the ring and pull the whole thing out of the tank. Not sure how much different it will be on yours, but it shouldnt be much.
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CA
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
From what i have heard. its not very hard. u just have to drop the tank and u should have easy access to it. i recommend draining most of the gas out first.... put the gas in a can for lkater or put it in ur other vehicle to go get parts as ur workin on it! ahaa i always end up workin on the jeep and keep findin new stuff to fix. My roommate is my parts gofer now
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I rebuilt my motor, now Ive got two codes, and its eaten 2 brand new distributors. I need some ideas.
First code is 41 which is "alternator field not switching properly". I have no idea what this is.
And 54 which, depending on what page your on in my Haynes is either the "distributor sync" or "No cam signal at PCM".
For both new distributors it ran for about an hour or so, then it just cranks.
First code is 41 which is "alternator field not switching properly". I have no idea what this is.
And 54 which, depending on what page your on in my Haynes is either the "distributor sync" or "No cam signal at PCM".
For both new distributors it ran for about an hour or so, then it just cranks.
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Joliet, Il
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
Fuel leakage (still)
Replaced my tank thinking there was a hole in it somewhere, but I was wrong. My tank is leaking somewhere from the fuel pump assembly. My question is (since my pump still works) is there any way that I can just replace the head of the unit? (part that is inside and outside) or does it come as a whole assembly? And are they the same on all years?
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CA
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I rebuilt my motor, now Ive got two codes, and its eaten 2 brand new distributors. I need some ideas.
First code is 41 which is "alternator field not switching properly". I have no idea what this is.
And 54 which, depending on what page your on in my Haynes is either the "distributor sync" or "No cam signal at PCM".
For both new distributors it ran for about an hour or so, then it just cranks.
First code is 41 which is "alternator field not switching properly". I have no idea what this is.
And 54 which, depending on what page your on in my Haynes is either the "distributor sync" or "No cam signal at PCM".
For both new distributors it ran for about an hour or so, then it just cranks.
and 54 maybe ur timin is off and thats whats eating the distributers....
or ur battery is roasted....
Last edited by jeeperscreepers92; 11-23-2012 at 01:40 PM. Reason: new ideassss
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Frederick, MD
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by xj guy
Replaced my tank thinking there was a hole in it somewhere, but I was wrong. My tank is leaking somewhere from the fuel pump assembly. My question is (since my pump still works) is there any way that I can just replace the head of the unit? (part that is inside and outside) or does it come as a whole assembly? And are they the same on all years?
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Summerville, Ga
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
CF Veteran
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by xj_maniac_newb
Alot more/more effective light. My Hella E codes with silverstar 65/55 4300k are a hell of a lot brighter than my stock sylania's. That and you have a replaceable bulb instead of having to replace an entire sealed bulb.
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
As simple as replacing a headlight. They use the same stock plugs. Many say to get a new harness (putco or similar) to increase the lighting, but its not necessary unless you decide to get a very high wattage bulb (which you would have to order). I didnt add a harness and i'm perfectly happy with mine.
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Glendale,Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Originally Posted by sizematters
i went to auto zone and they only had the fuel pump it self wasnt a complete set how hard is it to just change the pump it self ?
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CA
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I bought my whole assembly at Autozona for 109+tax about a ear ago. I first bought just the pump and when i installed it it didnt seem to fit in the bracket properly and i wasnt comfortable with that so i returned it and bought the whole assembly. I dropped the tank onto my stomach while under the jeep and then slid out from under it. Id make sure the tanks empty first because it can be a pita with gas in it. I also broke the 2 old J hooks holding the tank straps tight and had to get creative to find replacement bolts because the factory ones were $28+ a peice. But once the tanks down the hard part is over. Twist old lock ring off and alide in new assembly and gasket and replace lock ring and re install. Good luck!
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Albuquerque
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Replaced my tank thinking there was a hole in it somewhere, but I was wrong. My tank is leaking somewhere from the fuel pump assembly. My question is (since my pump still works) is there any way that I can just replace the head of the unit? (part that is inside and outside) or does it come as a whole assembly? And are they the same on all years?
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CA
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
ahaha hey if it works is not cheatin. sometimes if its done right fabrication ofur own parts works better then bought ones. u guys ever seen the movie about Dale earnhart senior where his dad uses Hex screw drivers in hs cars and they never snap compared to the parts that u have to buy?