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Old 12-04-2012, 07:25 PM
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On mine theres a nut attached to a piece of metal that helps hold it in place. Its more than likely a dealer item.
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep
On mine theres a nut attached to a piece of metal that helps hold it in place. Its more than likely a dealer item.
You can use a regular but and bolt there's plenty of room to stick a wrench in where the nut tab goes.
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:29 PM
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You can use a regular bolt? Good! I'll do that then
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
there's no other way - the core is quite large and packed in there
Thanks for replying. The replacement heater core looks pretty small--my dad and I thought that maybe a hole could be cut in the firewall to access it from the engine hood, kind of near the glove compartment/passenger dashboard area, but from the outside of the car?
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mar111
Thanks for replying. The replacement heater core looks pretty small--my dad and I thought that maybe a hole could be cut in the firewall to access it from the engine hood, kind of near the glove compartment/passenger dashboard area, but from the outside of the car?
Ima be honest. Dumbest idea I have ever heard. A car is considered totaled if a firewall is modified or damaged.
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s

Ima be honest. Dumbest idea I have ever heard. A car is considered totaled if a firewall is modified or damaged.
What about the cowl air filter? Isnt that considered the firewall?
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bhennessee1
You can use a regular but and bolt there's plenty of room to stick a wrench in where the nut tab goes.
This is good to know, I only removed my track bar once and recall it was a tight fit where the nut sits however wasnt sure if there was enough room for a wrench.
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:38 PM
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Default What to look for when someone "Drove it like it's stolen"

So long story short I had my 2000 Cherokee Sport stolen. When I got it back from the police I noticed that it's leaking engine oil (I didn't get a chance to see where it was coming from before insurance took it). My main concern is the rear main seal because I'm almost certain the engine was over revved for a long time. Between Laramie and Cheyenne (where it was found) there is a steep mountain pass that takes about 10-15 minutes to climb. I'm going to be with the mechanic when he inspects the engine but I just want to know if there is anything specific I should be looking for.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:13 PM
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Running problem upon startup. Anyone have a diagram as to where the grounds are in a 99 Cherokee so I can clean them then tighten them
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by greenxj21
Running problem upon startup. Anyone have a diagram as to where the grounds are in a 99 Cherokee so I can clean them then tighten them
They simple on the newer ones. Right behind block you'll see the braided engine ground. There's the main battery ground. What further is your problem
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by wyocowboy
So long story short I had my 2000 Cherokee Sport stolen. When I got it back from the police I noticed that it's leaking engine oil (I didn't get a chance to see where it was coming from before insurance took it). My main concern is the rear main seal because I'm almost certain the engine was over revved for a long time. Between Laramie and Cheyenne (where it was found) there is a steep mountain pass that takes about 10-15 minutes to climb. I'm going to be with the mechanic when he inspects the engine but I just want to know if there is anything specific I should be looking for.
Check the engines compression and investigate any other leaks and or noises. Also check to make sure the fluids look ok and if it is leaking oil it could of been ran low.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

They simple on the newer ones. Right behind block you'll see the braided engine ground. There's the main battery ground. What further is your problem
K thanks. My problem is that upon startup and acceleration immediately after startup (1-25mph) the thing will lurch and the rpms will go real high once it goes into the lurching phase. If I stop before the phase is over, the engine rpms will dip real low and then go back to normal. Once the phase is over, it is over till I start the jeep again. This happens every. Single. Time. I know when I went to have my codes read at a mechanic I had misfire in 2 cylinders (number 2 and 4 I believe). Rear o2 throwing a code but I doubt that could cause what is happening. Probably something more serious is going on since I have changed damn near every sensor. I also had it taken in for a smoke test in hopes of finding a vac peak but that wasn't it. The only way I can describe what the lurching feels like is like the butterfly on the throttle body moves from just a little open to wide open when I push the gas pedal (that's now what's happening, just trying to describe the feeling). I have to slowly push the pedal forward till I feel it lurch then I have to let off. It will do this 3-8 times in a row and can be very severe. Been dealing with this since April. Spent 100s of dollars trying to fix it. Bout ready to replace the oil in it with sand.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:58 PM
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Does anyone know what kind of paint everyone has used to achieve this look?


I used bed liner on my 95 but it gets nasty and stained. I'll probably use the bed liner on the lower portion of the rockers. But for the rear quarter what does everyone use?
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
What about the cowl air filter? Isnt that considered the firewall?
Nope, the metal you drill through for the cowl is just into the cowl. The firewall sits between the cowl and the cabin, so when you do that mod you aren't breaching any barrier that protects the occupants. Though even if you did, a 3" hole is quite a bit different from a monstrous gap created by a sawz-all.

Originally Posted by sycoglitch
They simple on the newer ones. Right behind block you'll see the braided engine ground. There's the main battery ground. What further is your problem
Negatory, on post-Renix XJs that's actually an extra path for dealing with interference on the radio. The FSM doesn't even consider it a ground. The primary engine ground is located on the passenger side of the block near the distributor.

Originally Posted by greenxj21
K thanks. My problem is that upon startup and acceleration immediately after startup (1-25mph) the thing will lurch and the rpms will go real high once it goes into the lurching phase. If I stop before the phase is over, the engine rpms will dip real low and then go back to normal. Once the phase is over, it is over till I start the jeep again. This happens every. Single. Time. I know when I went to have my codes read at a mechanic I had misfire in 2 cylinders (number 2 and 4 I believe). Rear o2 throwing a code but I doubt that could cause what is happening. Probably something more serious is going on since I have changed damn near every sensor. I also had it taken in for a smoke test in hopes of finding a vac peak but that wasn't it. The only way I can describe what the lurching feels like is like the butterfly on the throttle body moves from just a little open to wide open when I push the gas pedal (that's now what's happening, just trying to describe the feeling). I have to slowly push the pedal forward till I feel it lurch then I have to let off. It will do this 3-8 times in a row and can be very severe. Been dealing with this since April. Spent 100s of dollars trying to fix it. Bout ready to replace the oil in it with sand.
Guessing you've already dealt with the TPS. Cruiser54 has a great writeup on cleaning up XJ grounds, marginal grounds can cause all kinds of crap.

Last edited by salad; 12-04-2012 at 11:53 PM.
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:31 AM
  #17775  
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Originally Posted by salad

Nope, the metal you drill through for the cowl is just into the cowl. The firewall sits between the cowl and the cabin, so when you do that mod you aren't breaching any barrier that protects the occupants. Though even if you did, a 3" hole is quite a bit different from a monstrous gap created by a sawz-all.

Negatory, on post-Renix XJs that's actually an extra path for dealing with interference on the radio. The FSM doesn't even consider it a ground. The primary engine ground is located on the passenger side of the block near the distributor.

Guessing you've already dealt with the TPS. Cruiser54 has a great writeup on cleaning up XJ grounds, marginal grounds can cause all kinds of crap.
Yup replaced both tps and iac. And thanks
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