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XJ Ask the Question Thread
10-26-2010, 02:53 PM
#1831
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: fallon, nv
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
10-26-2010, 09:41 PM
#1832
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nevada City, California
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Year: 2K
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 with Mustang fuel injectors; 60mm Throttle Body;
When you say that it makes noise only when you apply gas this tells me that it is not a tranny problem but a ring and pinion wear. What you can do to diagnose this better is the following: notice if the whine frequency follows the engine RPMs when in drive or just the vehicle speed, in the first case it is something related to the tranny, in the second case it is definitely a gear whine, especially if it is more noticeable at middle/higher speeds.
Let me know.
Let me know.
It seems to be coming from the front of the Jeep not the back.
Question: How do I check to see which differential is it coming from?
Thanks for the help!
10-26-2010, 10:04 PM
#1833
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tucson, Az
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
i have 3" coil spacers i just put in, when i drove to my friends house i herd a clanking/knocking sound that increased in speed when i did. its definitely coming from the front but i can figure out what it is. any help???
10-27-2010, 11:24 AM
#1836
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Model: Cherokee
Coolant Leak
I have a bit of what seems to be a coolant leak. It's definitely bright green, I felt it and it feels a bit sludge-like, but this was after it had been sitting for a day. You can see on the center of this picture that it's just a little trace of antifreeze coming down the block behind the exhaust manifold in the center of the picture. This is from the drivers side--the shock is on the lower right of the pic and the A/C is obscuring the view a bit.
I have a couple of other cooling system problems--I noticed that the radiator is leaking out of the petcock. Also I noticed that the overflow bottle was empty, so I put 50/50 in it and a few days later it was empty again. I looked in the radiator a couple of times while cold and it's always been completely full. I'm seeing leaks under the radiator on both sides, but since it's full I wonder if maybe I just need to replace some hoses. It has been bashed in a bit on the right-front bumper and some damage around the right front wheel well.
This is a 96 2-door 4.0 L all stock, 160k. All maintenance unknown, just bought it and catching up on things now. I want to do a coolant flush, but I think maybe I should tear down and rebuild the system from the ground up. Maybe this is a water pump that's about to go? I'm a newbie on most of this stuff so thanks for your help.
I have a couple of other cooling system problems--I noticed that the radiator is leaking out of the petcock. Also I noticed that the overflow bottle was empty, so I put 50/50 in it and a few days later it was empty again. I looked in the radiator a couple of times while cold and it's always been completely full. I'm seeing leaks under the radiator on both sides, but since it's full I wonder if maybe I just need to replace some hoses. It has been bashed in a bit on the right-front bumper and some damage around the right front wheel well.
This is a 96 2-door 4.0 L all stock, 160k. All maintenance unknown, just bought it and catching up on things now. I want to do a coolant flush, but I think maybe I should tear down and rebuild the system from the ground up. Maybe this is a water pump that's about to go? I'm a newbie on most of this stuff so thanks for your help.
10-27-2010, 01:51 PM
#1837
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: cny
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Year: 87-99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
on the wj front brake swap, you use the knuckles, rotors and calipers from the wj. you use the xj ball joints and wheel bearings. a .230"-.250" is required below the wheel bearing to get the u-joint on the same axis as the ball joints. the wj rotors get redrilled to the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. some people have had to shim the caliper bracket to get it dead center over the rotor. when you do this swap, it requires using the wj steering setup, which i feel is an upgrade. everything is bigger. the rear brake backing plate mounts different than the zj/xj. not that it couldn't fit, but would require a fair amount of work. good luck and nice find.
zedpapa
zedpapa
So before asking I did a search for my answer, I got part of it, but not all. This is geared at swapping over to WJ knuckles on the XJ.
First Question: Do I need just the outers (knuckles alone) or will I need the inner "C" portions as well. Quote above says use XJ ball joints, which is why I ask, just need a little clarification what I'm supposed to swap over.
#2: Quote says to put a .230-.250 shim below the wheel bearing. Does this mean I have to put one behind it to shim it away from the knuckle? Or to put it another way, put a shim between the brake dust shield and the bearing? (I know it sounds dumb, but I'd rather know before tearing apart my DD, lol).
#3: Kind of an extension to #2. What about putting the spacer (or shim) on the stub shaft itself? Meaning between the bearing and where the stub rides. Or would that not offer proper clearence for the "new" rotor and caliper? Might it bind up the front diff using that route?
#4: Anyone have any other insights on this subject that I may or may not encounter?
Thanks in Advance...
10-27-2010, 04:55 PM
#1838
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Model: Cherokee
lol im not sure if im putting this in the right place
i have a question about my 91 cherokee... i keep having 4wd problems with it... whats an easy non permanant way to lock the actuator into 4wd on the front axel?
10-27-2010, 05:04 PM
#1840
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Model: Cherokee
91* has vacuum disconnect. Here's some info I found on it, though there is info all over this site as well about it. http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f6...sconnect-1102/
*maybe.. I guess some did not in fact use that system. Command Trac did with 231 Transfer Case.
*maybe.. I guess some did not in fact use that system. Command Trac did with 231 Transfer Case.
Last edited by qsoundrich; 10-27-2010 at 05:06 PM.
10-27-2010, 07:36 PM
#1842
10-27-2010, 08:00 PM
#1843
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: S. Williamsport, PA
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Year: 96 4 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
Running Hotter than it should - Fan Clutch?
I've looked at a lot of threads. Flushed the system 3 Times, Replaced the Thermo and Sending unit. Have all of the air out of the system.
When the engine is running and at idle it stays at 200-205. When I'm on the Highway in 5th doing 60mph at runs about 212. When I'm in town going thru the lower gears at higher rpms it cools back down.
I notice my fan keeps moving for about 5 seconds after I turn the engine off.
Is the fan clutch going?
When the engine is running and at idle it stays at 200-205. When I'm on the Highway in 5th doing 60mph at runs about 212. When I'm in town going thru the lower gears at higher rpms it cools back down.
I notice my fan keeps moving for about 5 seconds after I turn the engine off.
Is the fan clutch going?
10-27-2010, 09:22 PM
#1844
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: huntsville, tx
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Pull the rear hose completely off, use compressed air (if you have it) to spray it out. I dont have compressed air, so I used a bunch of liquid wrench with the "straw" on it and blew it out.
The renix, AFAIK just has CCV and the rear is a metered orifice. I used a screwdriver to scrape out any carbon and sprayed a tinybit of PB blaster in it. Then I put the hose back on.
For the front: Route it so the middle is lower than any other point.
The renix, AFAIK just has CCV and the rear is a metered orifice. I used a screwdriver to scrape out any carbon and sprayed a tinybit of PB blaster in it. Then I put the hose back on.
For the front: Route it so the middle is lower than any other point.
Please explain this process a little more or add some pics...when it comes to jeeps, I really am a newbie! Thanks!
