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XJ Ask the Question Thread
12-29-2012, 05:04 PM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Prob 18, 19, or 21
Yeah it would say on the sheet. Jack up the rear and spin a rear tire and if the spin the same way- LSD, if they spin opposite, open diff.
And yes you can run synthetic.
How do I tell if I have a LSD differential? My build sheet says I have a D30 up front and a C8.25 in the rear. Which I still have. Would it say on my build sheet if I have LSD?
Also, I can get a really good price on synthetic oil from lucas oil, is conventional preffered for our Diffs? It is my daily driver, and don't ever tow. And Rarely do I take it offroad. Thanks guys!
Also, I can get a really good price on synthetic oil from lucas oil, is conventional preffered for our Diffs? It is my daily driver, and don't ever tow. And Rarely do I take it offroad. Thanks guys!
And yes you can run synthetic.
12-29-2012, 08:32 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by jake92
Found out that I have the Chrysler 8.25 rear end and not the D35 which is better?
12-29-2012, 08:35 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
12-29-2012, 08:56 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
a 29-spline C 8-25 is better than a D35, 27-spline is about the same. You can upgrade them though, with the carrier and shafts from a later axle.
12-29-2012, 08:59 PM
Senior Member
May as well do that as I'm guessing the bearings are starting to go or are in the process of going
12-29-2012, 09:02 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Synthetic 75w140 is recommended under heavy use, including offroading and towing, otherwise conventional 75w90/80w90 is fine. I recommend conventional if you plan on sinking your differentials - oil should be changed and gears inspected after every time it goes swimming. Otherwise if you like synthetic go for it
12-29-2012, 09:07 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Serpentine belt went slack so I replaced it. The new belt is still a bit slack even when the tensioner is screwed right in. I did first slack off the idler pulley bolt and tightened it again after screwing in the tensioner. The belt is the correct one and a genuine part. Can this slack be taken up on my model by adjusting the position of the steering pump, or the alternator as in earlier models. Any help much appreciated. Regards from South Africa!
This is immediately behind the electric fan, the large pulley in the top right is on the power steering pump.
12-29-2012, 09:16 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
No benefit on these things - just get a good header and run 2.5" pipe back with a high flow cat, and most people seem to like the Flowmaster 40. Stock setup has 2.25" pipe in spots and a crush in the downpipe that deliberately restricts flow.
12-29-2012, 09:20 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Hi guys, new to the forum but not new to Jeeps. I just picked up my third Jeep, a 2001 Cherokee Sport. I'm having an issue shifting into Part Time 4wd. If i pull straight back until it stops (like I do with my other XJ and TJ) it will go through Part Time 4WD high and into neutral between 4 High and 4 Low. If I conscientiously pull the handle up, I can feel it go into 4 high, and it stays in. But if I just pull it until it the stops, it'll go right past 4 high and into neutral as described above. Is there some kind of lever adjustment? Is there a bigger T-Case issue I should be worried about? Thanks.
12-29-2012, 09:24 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I dont think you know how a muffler works.. A muffler muffles the sound of the exhaust. A catalytic converter burns exhaust gases and expended fuel to make what comes out the exhaust tip more eco friendly. And as far as "back pressure" goes the cat will supply more then enough "back pressure"
Aaaalmost... The O2s will definitely be affected by changes in temperature in the exhaust system. Remember fuel keeps burning after it's been let out of the cylinders. If you modify the exhaust enough to effect that (significantly higher flow, significantly lower temperatures) you could certainly see a change in the sensor's readings. Usually this is what happens if you lose the cat entirely though, just optimizing the system for flow - improving the original design but still letting it work the same way - typically results in improvements in economy.