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Old 01-18-2013, 03:15 PM
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anybody have info on a dual battery wiring diagram with the option to switch between batteries. need to do one soon for my winch but dont want to buy a kit. any help is great
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bhennessee1
Look between cylinders 3 and 4 right below the oil fill and see if there is a crack, you might be able to see coolant residue. Just to clarify, your starter is working, but the engine is in a bind right?
I dont see any cracks there, or anywhere.. Should I keep going, taking out pushrods? Especially in number 3 where the potential problem was?
I just dont know what is next. If I tear into it, I'm going to do a head gasket, and what sounds like an engine overhaul/ possible rebuild.
Pretty advanced for the home mechanic, but why not?
As far as just replacing the motor-- these motors are around, but not cheap because they are still in high demand typically being reliable- as they do last forever *normally...lol

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Old 01-18-2013, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 87laredoxj
anybody have info on a dual battery wiring diagram with the option to switch between batteries. need to do one soon for my winch but dont want to buy a kit. any help is great
In my jeep I have a dual battery setup- one in the jeep, one in a 5x8 enclosed trailer I haul around with tools-- I used a dual-battery isolater bought for about $45.. which charges both, but keeps them from draining eachother. Very simple to install, basically plug and play. ill go snap a picture if you need.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:31 PM
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cool thanks and yeah a pic would be awesome
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ericsvb
I dont see any cracks there, or anywhere.. Should I keep going, taking out pushrods? Especially in number 3 where the potential problem was?
I just dont know what is next. If I tear into it, I'm going to do a head gasket, and what sounds like an engine overhaul/ possible rebuild.
Pretty advanced for the home mechanic, but why not?
As far as just replacing the motor-- these motors are around, but not cheap because they are still in high demand typically being reliable- as they do last forever *normally...lol
The head needs to come off.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:54 PM
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Well im back from looking for that dang short thats blowing fuse #19. I didn't find a short/grounding out wire anywhere but i did find this. It's the connector that plugs into the Hi/Low setting for my heater/AC. I've had my stereo out forever and just noticed this down there. Now, does anyone know if this could be causing the short to my fuse 19 for my dash lights/dash illumination stuff? And if so how would one replace it?
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Eagle564
Well im back from looking for that dang short thats blowing fuse #19. I didn't find a short/grounding out wire anywhere but i did find this. It's the connector that plugs into the Hi/Low setting for my heater/AC. I've had my stereo out forever and just noticed this down there. Now, does anyone know if this could be causing the short to my fuse 19 for my dash lights/dash illumination stuff? And if so how would one replace it?
If it's on the same circuit, it could most definitely cause the fuse to blow.
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by a_shirey

Nope. Didnt see the point. Otherwise its 100% bolt on.
Yea, I just didn't think it'd be a good idea to put a bolt in a tapered hole.

Did you guys (who have it on) need a drop pitman arm with it?
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Eagle564
Also, my ceiling dome light doesnt come on when my driver side door is open, but it does when the passenger door is open. Could this possibly be the issue?
Possible
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by theyammieguy
If it's on the same circuit, it could most definitely cause the fuse to blow.
Do you or does anyone know what part is called? Or if I can just replace that switch part or the entire wiring part and if it goes and splices into something else along the way? My heater and everything all works fine still but I could see this being the issue possibly. If this is the issue I want to get it fixed asap.
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Eagle564
Well im back from looking for that dang short thats blowing fuse #19. I didn't find a short/grounding out wire anywhere but i did find this. It's the connector that plugs into the Hi/Low setting for my heater/AC. I've had my stereo out forever and just noticed this down there. Now, does anyone know if this could be causing the short to my fuse 19 for my dash lights/dash illumination stuff? And if so how would one replace it?
Not connected in any way to no 19 the fix is get new plug and splice in
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Not connected in any way to no 19 the fix is get new plug and splice in
Ok thank you. So then that leaves the door and the done light issue. The stupid buzzer goes off still when the door is open, the only thing that doesn't is the dome light.
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:25 PM
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You can go to the junk yard and cut off a plug and splice it into your wiring harness, or cut off that plug and crimp on some female terminals.

You should trace all the wires and find out if there is a reason that plug melted. I run across this quite often on the Macks I work on.
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Eagle564
Ok thank you. So then that leaves the door and the done light issue. The stupid buzzer goes off still when the door is open, the only thing that doesn't is the dome light.
Buzzer goes off when you open the door ?
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by theyammieguy
You can go to the junk yard and cut off a plug and splice it into your wiring harness, or cut off that plug and crimp on some female terminals.

You should trace all the wires and find out if there is a reason that plug melted. I run across this quite often on the Macks I work on.
most common cause is loose connection or to much electrical draws very common on xjs
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