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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Alabama
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Cherokees have two options for gauges. You can either have full, measured gauges...or idiot lights like this picture:
Attachment 169094
If your Jeep has full gauges, you need to use the full gauge oil pressure sending unit. If you use the idiot light sender, it will only trigger on/off, and your gauge will be far left or far right.
They should ask which one you need at an auto parts store. Around here, Advance Auto is the place to go.
Attachment 169094
If your Jeep has full gauges, you need to use the full gauge oil pressure sending unit. If you use the idiot light sender, it will only trigger on/off, and your gauge will be far left or far right.
They should ask which one you need at an auto parts store. Around here, Advance Auto is the place to go.
So, you think the pump is ok?
I just pulled the valve cover off and it looked ok. It did have a little sludge but not to bad.
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Glendale,Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
If you bought the one for the idiot light and your dash has the mechanical gauge to show pressure thab you need to go back and get the right on. You cannot use that sensor on yours as it is not designed to show pressure psi. Your engines most likely fine you just need the proper gauge for your application.
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by DieselD
I'm bout to go pull the 231 from my donor xj, any words of wisdom?
CF Veteran
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Location: Frisco, Tx
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
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Location: Fountain Inn, SC
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Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
would a wheel bearing make more noise after letting off the accelerator? it makes noise while going but when i let off the gas it makes a grinding noise? and idk it sorta feels like it slows down.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Yes, i drove mine with a bad wheel bearing for week since i didnt have the money to fix it. It got so bad you could hear it a mile away and feel it in the jeep. No matter on the gas or not thw bearings are still apinning in the hub since the wheels are turnin'.
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Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
thought so, is it a PITA to change both fronts? (might as well change both while im at it)
Great information, I checked a couple of these steps, I do have some bubbles comming up under the radiator cap, couldn't detect any cracks, I'll change oil and observe, send off for a sample test, I did determine that I have the 0630 head. Bummer I had planned on an expedition rack.
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Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Great information, I checked a couple of these steps, I do have some bubbles comming up under the radiator cap, couldn't detect any cracks, I'll change oil and observe, send off for a sample test, I did determine that I have the 0630 head. Bummer I had planned on an expedition rack.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Well im not sure how the different years changed the hubs, but on my 90 you needed a 36 mm socket and a breaker bar. I actually broke the nut loose while the brakes and everything were still on. My wife held the brake and I used the bar to help with leverage. I believe the torque is over 150ft lbs on that center nut. Then i used a small breaker bar and i believe it was a e12 or e13 socket for the back 3 bolts on the hub. When i put everything back on i put some of that multi use greese on the axel shaft splines so it would be smooth going on or comin off if ever needed to repair. Took me about 1.5 hrs for one side when working slow and trying to figure out he best ways to do it. I could do it much faster after the fisrt one. Its better to do both at the same time but not absolutley needed.
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Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Well im not sure how the different years changed the hubs, but on my 90 you needed a 36 mm socket and a breaker bar. I actually broke the nut loose while the brakes and everything were still on. My wife held the brake and I used the bar to help with leverage. I believe the torque is over 150ft lbs on that center nut. Then i used a small breaker bar and i believe it was a e12 or e13 socket for the back 3 bolts on the hub. When i put everything back on i put some of that multi use greese on the axel shaft splines so it would be smooth going on or comin off if ever needed to repair. Took me about 1.5 hrs for one side when working slow and trying to figure out he best ways to do it. I could do it much faster after the fisrt one. Its better to do both at the same time but not absolutley needed.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Good idea. Make sure you have all the tools and parts you need first. Check what size the 3 bolts are on the back of the hub. Im actually pretty sure they are a 13mm 12 point socket. Also a breaker bar and some anti seize for all the bolts is reccomended. Good luck.
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you bought the one for the idiot light and your dash has the mechanical gauge to show pressure thab you need to go back and get the right on. You cannot use that sensor on yours as it is not designed to show pressure psi. Your engines most likely fine you just need the proper gauge for your application.