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Old 01-28-2013, 05:02 PM
  #22216  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Never heard of that. That falls into the same catagory as not doing things too much or you'll go blind..........
hahaha ok touche

Originally Posted by xj_maniac_newb
Just rub some fine dirt on it after you plug it (or whatever dry dirt/whatever you can find, as long as its dry) so the plug material isnt tacky anymore and drive on it. Should be good to go right after.
ok thanks, always good to learn something
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:24 PM
  #22217  
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I engaged 4H today, and it didn't want to release. I put it back to 2WD and it was clearly still in 4H for about 10 seconds. Then I heard a thunk, like I hit a pothole, and the extra "whirring" of the 4WD was gone. Was it a pothole that kicked it back into 2WD or is that just the sound it made finally going back into 2WD?

Originally Posted by my89xj
Did you go into reverse when you did this?
No, I was driving down the road. I shifted into and out of 4H while driving. So, I could not go into reverse.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:32 PM
  #22218  
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
I engaged 4H today, and it didn't want to release. I put it back to 2WD and it was clearly still in 4H for about 10 seconds. Then I heard a thunk, like I hit a pothole, and the extra "whirring" of the 4WD was gone. Was it a pothole that kicked it back into 2WD or is that just the sound it made finally going back into 2WD?



No, I was driving down the road. I shifted into and out of 4H while driving. So, I could not go into reverse.
like asphalt? thats why it clunked, mine did that before i knew to never engage on the road....only when in dirt, mud etc. Engaging it on dry pavement etc binds the transfer case i think. No bueno
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:09 PM
  #22219  
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My 1999 rotors are CAST, correct?
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:10 PM
  #22220  
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
I engaged 4H today, and it didn't want to release. I put it back to 2WD and it was clearly still in 4H for about 10 seconds. Then I heard a thunk, like I hit a pothole, and the extra "whirring" of the 4WD was gone. Was it a pothole that kicked it back into 2WD or is that just the sound it made finally going back into 2WD?



No, I was driving down the road. I shifted into and out of 4H while driving. So, I could not go into reverse.

You should probably take that to a certified blue color high school drop out mechanic and have it looked at.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:12 PM
  #22221  
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Originally Posted by Power73
i already have the moog bushings tho. any advice?
Take them back and order WJ arms.

If you hell bent on using OEM bushings then take the arms loose and knock the bushings out. Beat the new ones back in and roll with it.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by lowrange2

Take them back and order WJ arms.

If you hell bent on using OEM bushings then take the arms loose and knock the bushings out. Beat the new ones back in and roll with it.
Wait if I remember the wj lowers need a little massaging to fit
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:24 PM
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Is an '88 XJ 4.0 long block the same as a '99 XJ 4.0 long block.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:28 PM
  #22224  
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Originally Posted by Little Blacky
Is an '88 XJ 4.0 long block the same as a '99 XJ 4.0 long block.


XJ
Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.

2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.

XJ/ZJ blocks and 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. (1997-1999 4.0L TJ Wrangler blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ and visa-versa).

TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ.

XJ: "Regular" (not Grand) Cherokees 84-01
ZJ: Grand Cherokee 93-98 (Gen1)
WJ: Grand Cherokee 99-04 (Gen2)
TJ: Wrangler 97-06 (Gen2)




What are you wanting to do?
Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.

You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.

 

Revised 07/24/2012

 
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:28 PM
  #22225  
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Originally Posted by Little Blacky
Is an '88 XJ 4.0 long block the same as a '99 XJ 4.0 long block.
The block will work but needs you head intake and exhaust manifold unless you wanna do a h/o swap
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by hick92
Wait if I remember the wj lowers need a little massaging to fit
They need a little grinding to fit.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by lowrange2

They need a little grinding to fit.
That's Wat I was getting at I'd grind slowly and allow some cooling time to keep from melting the bushings
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by hick92
The block will work but needs you head intake and exhaust manifold unless you wanna do a h/o swap
YOu can use the HO head...............
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:33 PM
  #22229  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

YOu can use the HO head...............
Thanks for the correction I thought the renix manifolds didn't bolt on the h/o head
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:34 PM
  #22230  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

XJ
Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.

2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.

XJ/ZJ blocks and 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. (1997-1999 4.0L TJ Wrangler blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ and visa-versa).

TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ.

XJ: "Regular" (not Grand) Cherokees 84-01
ZJ: Grand Cherokee 93-98 (Gen1)
WJ: Grand Cherokee 99-04 (Gen2)
TJ: Wrangler 97-06 (Gen2)




What are you wanting to do?
Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.

You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.

 

Revised 07/24/2012

 
This honestly was one of the most informative posts i have ever come across on CF......
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