Originally Posted by joaopaulo

im sorry but i forgot to ask you something that i had thought a little too and became a problem to me, can i do this whitout an elevator and a little of sacrifice or its really difficult to do it whitout an elevator or a similar place?

Originally Posted by ScikoFaery

whats a tcu and i checked the fluid its a little low but i have no money to get more i think its running hot pretty sure coolant isnt supposed to boil....

Originally Posted by aJeepNamedGail

Would a grand Cherokee v8 fit in an XJ? Got a pretty sweet deal on a whole one right now it just has tranny issues. Planned on getting another tranny rebuilt. The grands engine was rebuilt like 20,000 miles ago

Originally Posted by aJeepNamedGail

Would a grand Cherokee v8 fit in an XJ? Got a pretty sweet deal on a whole one right now it just has tranny issues. Planned on getting another tranny rebuilt. The grands engine was rebuilt like 20,000 miles ago

Originally Posted by jeeperscreepers92

An XJ with a v8.... make sure to change the 4.0 emblem.....

Originally Posted by Tgavin7

HELP PLEASE!!!!! Ok so I have a 95 Xj and I took it to get dirty the first time... Well now it doesn't want to run right! When I start it up it idles fine, but when I get ready to give it gas, it bogs down really bad, as soon as I let off the throttle it dies on me! I've already replaced plugs, wires, dist. Cap and rotor, still messed up! It also doesn't want to shift out of 1st till around 4. (It's an auto) any suggestions would be great!!!

Originally Posted by tjwalker

The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.

Originally Posted by theyammieguy

Besides or-fab, does anyone else make tube bumpers? I don't think I've ran across any.

Originally Posted by theyammieguy

Besides or-fab, does anyone else make tube bumpers? I don't think I've ran across any.

Originally Posted by salad

Most likely culprit is your TPS... they really do not like water.

Here's my recommendation:

1. Tear down and clean your throttle body. Carefully remove everything attached to it, you can reuse the gaskets if they aren't damaged. On the '95 models I believe the MAP sensor is up on the firewall, so the main things you're going after are the IAC and TPS. Clean out these two with throttle body cleaner spray and a soft toothbrush. Be careful to not push on the pintle sticking out of the IAC motor as it's semi-fragile (being forced can kill it).

2. For all the electrical connectors on the throttle body assembly, clean them out with a brass wire brush and electric contact cleaner spray of the heptane or hexane variety. Once they're dried off (you can use some compressed air to help you along) apply a bit of conductive electrical grease like one of the products here: http://www.k1ttt.net/technote/antiox.html Gardner Bender's OX-GARD and Ideal's NOALOX can be found at home improvement stores. These compounds restore function to corroded connections and prevent further corrosion. Around the edges of the connectors, such as the shroud on the male end, apply a bit of silicone dielectric grease. It acts like a caulking that will never dry, keeping water and other contaminants out. Note that silicone dielectric grease is NOT conductive and should NOT be applied directly to the pins of ANY connector. I strongly recommend doing this to each and every electrical connector and mating surface (battery terminals, PDC, etc) you can find on your vehicle - especially if you like mud or water.

3. The above two might deal with a marginal connection to a TPS, but you should verify that it is actually working right. The below writeup is geared towards 96+ OBD-II Jeeps, so on a 1995 the peak voltage may be lower. Before you start, get a reading from the actual supply pin going into the TPS and substitute that for the high voltage referenced by tjwalker:




Man I'm posting this a lot lately... lol

Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper

Is you replace the PCM, does the odometer get reset to the miles on the PCM? Or are the miles stores elsewhere? I assume it's stored in some electronic part, so if you replace it, does the mileage shown also change?

Originally Posted by salad

Most likely culprit is your TPS... they really do not like water.

Here's my recommendation:

1. Tear down and clean your throttle body. Carefully remove everything attached to it, you can reuse the gaskets if they aren't damaged. On the '95 models I believe the MAP sensor is up on the firewall, so the main things you're going after are the IAC and TPS. Clean out these two with throttle body cleaner spray and a soft toothbrush. Be careful to not push on the pintle sticking out of the IAC motor as it's semi-fragile (being forced can kill it).

2. For all the electrical connectors on the throttle body assembly, clean them out with a brass wire brush and electric contact cleaner spray of the heptane or hexane variety. Once they're dried off (you can use some compressed air to help you along) apply a bit of conductive electrical grease like one of the products here: http://www.k1ttt.net/technote/antiox.html Gardner Bender's OX-GARD and Ideal's NOALOX can be found at home improvement stores. These compounds restore function to corroded connections and prevent further corrosion. Around the edges of the connectors, such as the shroud on the male end, apply a bit of silicone dielectric grease. It acts like a caulking that will never dry, keeping water and other contaminants out. Note that silicone dielectric grease is NOT conductive and should NOT be applied directly to the pins of ANY connector. I strongly recommend doing this to each and every electrical connector and mating surface (battery terminals, PDC, etc) you can find on your vehicle - especially if you like mud or water.

3. The above two might deal with a marginal connection to a TPS, but you should verify that it is actually working right. The below writeup is geared towards 96+ OBD-II Jeeps, so on a 1995 the peak voltage may be lower. Before you start, get a reading from the actual supply pin going into the TPS and substitute that for the high voltage referenced by tjwalker:

Man I'm posting this a lot lately... lol