Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
#2221
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
#2222
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Finally got around to replacing my stuck open thermostat, not overcooling now and I have heat! Now my only prob that I've had for awhile and now just getting too is I don't get heat blowing through my dash vents, Only through my floor and consle duct and my defrost works fine, just not my dash vents, soo my thought is vacuum problem? Am I own the right track? Trying to get much info before I get home from and work and bear the freezing garage. Thanks
#2223
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Monroe NC
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
My cat has been shot for a while and i dont know what cat to buy but i want a nice cat because im put a fm 10 on.. any segestions?
thanks
thanks
#2224
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
As for the FM 10 - they are for off-road use only, so unless this is strictly a trail rig I would choose another muffler. I have the super 40 and it sounds great.
#2225
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I found a dana 30 for my 4x4 conversion but I'm still looking around for 44s as well just to see what's on the market.. anyway, what all am I going to need with the axle? that I can't swap from my jeep?
#2226
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
You also need to make sure the axle you are getting has the same gear ratio as your current rear axle. You can find this by emailing jeep the VIN numbers of both jeeps and asking for the build sheet for each.
There may also be a metal tag attached to one of the differential cover bolts with either the ratio or the ring/pinion count. If the tag reads something like "37 9", divide the larger by the smaller to get the ratio (37/9 = 4.11 gear ratio).
#2227
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gads Hill, Ontario
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
TC Drain Plug
I made my own allen wrench one time, by grinding down a bolt to 6 sides. That way you can make it a bit oversize, to fit tight. A 1/2" bolt, grade 8 should do nicely. Cut off the threaded part, so you just have the head and a stub, maybe an inch long. Grind the stub down to 6-sided, the size you need. Take your time, don't overheat it, cool it in some water every few seconds. Do your best to get an accurate hex on it. Then you can pound it into the drain plug, and you should be able to get it out.
Or you could start with a bigger allen wrench instead of the 1/2" bolt.
Buy a new drain plug to put back in!
You may want to get at it while the transfer case is hot (well, warm) from driving - the aluminum expands faster than the steel plug, should make it not quite so tight.
#2228
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You need the entire axle assembly, and the front driveshaft.
You also need to make sure the axle you are getting has the same gear ratio as your current rear axle. You can find this by emailing jeep the VIN numbers of both jeeps and asking for the build sheet for each.
There may also be a metal tag attached to one of the differential cover bolts with either the ratio or the ring/pinion count. If the tag reads something like "37 9", divide the larger by the smaller to get the ratio (37/9 = 4.11 gear ratio).
You also need to make sure the axle you are getting has the same gear ratio as your current rear axle. You can find this by emailing jeep the VIN numbers of both jeeps and asking for the build sheet for each.
There may also be a metal tag attached to one of the differential cover bolts with either the ratio or the ring/pinion count. If the tag reads something like "37 9", divide the larger by the smaller to get the ratio (37/9 = 4.11 gear ratio).
#2229
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
hmm not sure about the brakes. Grab them just to be sure. Everything else *should* match up.
#2230
I just bought a 1985 cherokee 2 door. It has a 4cyl 5 speed in it. I'm not sure what transfer case I have. I bought the jeep with a blown transfer case so I need to get a new one. How can I find out what transfer case I have and where can I get a used one?
#2231
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
There was only one TC used that year - the NP207. You can verify by looking at the rear of the case for a round metal tag. Model # is at the top. You may have trouble finding one however, and may want to consider swapping it for a NP231 (stronger and more reliable) - as long as it is 21 spline (which i believe was 1987 -mid 1989 4cyl or v6 XJ Cherokees , as well as any 4cyl YJ and early TJ's.). It's a direct swap as long as the spline count is the same.
Last edited by dukie564; 12-08-2010 at 04:00 PM.
#2232
On a continuing quest to bring my Cherokee back up to full functionality;
Vehicle: 1996 Jeep Cherokee In-line 6, 4.0 HO
Symptom:
Heater inoperable, no fans, no heat, nothing. Not even defrost.
What I've already done;
I've replaced the thermostat and that gave me defroster, and I can hear the heater core/fan working behind the dash. But I can't get the heat to come through my vents. (the vents work, on well.. "VENT", but not heat)
I suspect the "heater flap" doesn't work (or is stuck on cold if it's a mixer), but one major problem with investigating-
I don't know what the heck I'm looking for. I'm still learning, and as of right now, rather auto-ignorant, I don't know what the flap looks like, and only have a vague idea where to look. I can't find any pictures of what this would look like..
Considering its 20 degrees out.. I'd prefer not to wait 20 minutes for my engine to heat up enough to use hot vent.. which barely works anymore anyways.
Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated
Vehicle: 1996 Jeep Cherokee In-line 6, 4.0 HO
Symptom:
Heater inoperable, no fans, no heat, nothing. Not even defrost.
What I've already done;
I've replaced the thermostat and that gave me defroster, and I can hear the heater core/fan working behind the dash. But I can't get the heat to come through my vents. (the vents work, on well.. "VENT", but not heat)
I suspect the "heater flap" doesn't work (or is stuck on cold if it's a mixer), but one major problem with investigating-
I don't know what the heck I'm looking for. I'm still learning, and as of right now, rather auto-ignorant, I don't know what the flap looks like, and only have a vague idea where to look. I can't find any pictures of what this would look like..
Considering its 20 degrees out.. I'd prefer not to wait 20 minutes for my engine to heat up enough to use hot vent.. which barely works anymore anyways.
Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated
#2233
cool thanks for the reply The ones im seeing are a bit spendy. Would this one be a direct swap? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-...8#ht_500wt_956
on a side note, I think somewhere on the jeep it says it has select track. Will that matter?
on a side note, I think somewhere on the jeep it says it has select track. Will that matter?
There was only one TC used that year - the NP207. You can verify by looking at the rear of the case for a round metal tag. Model # is at the top. You may have trouble finding one however, and may want to consider swapping it for a NP231 (stronger and more reliable) - as long as it is 21 spline (which i believe was 1987 -mid 1989 4cyl or v6 XJ Cherokees , as well as any 4cyl YJ and early TJ's.). It's a direct swap as long as the spline count is the same.
Last edited by justintime; 12-08-2010 at 05:44 PM.
#2234
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
I don't think WD40 is gonna do much for you - it's already got oil on the back side. It's most likely just tight in the aluminum casing.
I made my own allen wrench one time, by grinding down a bolt to 6 sides. That way you can make it a bit oversize, to fit tight. A 1/2" bolt, grade 8 should do nicely. Cut off the threaded part, so you just have the head and a stub, maybe an inch long. Grind the stub down to 6-sided, the size you need. Take your time, don't overheat it, cool it in some water every few seconds. Do your best to get an accurate hex on it. Then you can pound it into the drain plug, and you should be able to get it out.
Or you could start with a bigger allen wrench instead of the 1/2" bolt.
Buy a new drain plug to put back in!
You may want to get at it while the transfer case is hot (well, warm) from driving - the aluminum expands faster than the steel plug, should make it not quite so tight.
I made my own allen wrench one time, by grinding down a bolt to 6 sides. That way you can make it a bit oversize, to fit tight. A 1/2" bolt, grade 8 should do nicely. Cut off the threaded part, so you just have the head and a stub, maybe an inch long. Grind the stub down to 6-sided, the size you need. Take your time, don't overheat it, cool it in some water every few seconds. Do your best to get an accurate hex on it. Then you can pound it into the drain plug, and you should be able to get it out.
Or you could start with a bigger allen wrench instead of the 1/2" bolt.
Buy a new drain plug to put back in!
You may want to get at it while the transfer case is hot (well, warm) from driving - the aluminum expands faster than the steel plug, should make it not quite so tight.
#2235
Will Up Country coil springs for a WJ work on my 5.9 ZJ... given they are the V8 springs? If not, anyone know where I can get a set of those springs?! Hopefully not a junkyard - I'd like to get a fresh set.