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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:03 PM
  #22516  
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Originally Posted by my89xj

Think there all the same. Think they're call spade connectors.
Just makin sure there not soldered or special clips
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by luckyunblock
So the axle and frame bolts for the upper control arm are the same?
This is what I have on my cheat sheet which I got from somewhere here on the forum:
The track bar bolt is: M10x1.5x75mm
LCA bolts are: M14x2.0mmx120mm
UCA bolts are: M10x1.5x110mm
Cross Member bolts are: 3/8"-24 (I think)

However, I think the LCAs might be better off at 110mm also.
Any help from others?
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:53 PM
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So I think my fuel pump is going bad, stuttering issue gets worse the more empty the tanks get.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:58 PM
  #22519  
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Originally Posted by theyammieguy
Yes, I'm aware.

I've done quite a bit searching on here and I've read a lot. Most threads show how to cut, bit not where.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:59 PM
  #22520  
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Originally Posted by my89xj
So I think my fuel pump is going bad, stuttering issue gets worse the more empty the tanks get.
Sure its not a sloshing issue
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:59 PM
  #22521  
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Originally Posted by dukie564
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Nice!!
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:40 PM
  #22522  
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Originally Posted by I Leak Oil

Sure its not a sloshing issue
Explain? Its mostly when its still cold but can still happen at warm temp.
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:49 PM
  #22523  
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Im going to cut out my muffler and catalytic converter and weld new ones in. I want to sleeve weld them in since its stronger than butt welding. Should I flare the exhaust pipe to fit over the muffler/cat inlet/outlet, or flare the muffler/cat to slide over the exhaust pipe?
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep
Im going to cut out my muffler and catalytic converter and weld new ones in. I want to sleeve weld them in since its stronger than butt welding. Should I flare the exhaust pipe to fit over the muffler/cat inlet/outlet, or flare the muffler/cat to slide over the exhaust pipe?
Overlap them so the exhaust gas isn't restricted. Pieces toward the rear should sleeve over pieces toward the manifold.
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Overlap them so the exhaust gas isn't restricted. Pieces toward the rear should sleeve over pieces toward the manifold.
Thank you
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:23 PM
  #22526  
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Any way to wire in a jumper switch to roll the window down and up? Driver front door window works when it has power but i need to know how to wire in some sore of switch for it ti work when i want it to.
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Eagle564
Well my 96 SE only has the idiot lights, what would it take to swap in some real gauges, atleast a temp gauge and an oil pressure gauge into the idiot light spots? From my understanding I'd need the new gauge, then a new Oil Pressure Sensor and just replace? Not sure on the Temp one. Anyone have links to any threads on it(Search wasn't bein nice)?
Found this.

http://www.naxja.org/html/techarticles/gauge/Gauge.htm
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:41 PM
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1998 Cherokee Classic, Thanks to all on OEM fog lights and switch (Its Alive!)

Now how about the Emergency/ Parking Brake light. (it's on all the time)
Brakes / Emergency Brake / Fluid / no air in lines/ All functioning okay.
So do I have to remove part of the center console to get access to and play with the switch?
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot DogsJeep
1998 Cherokee Classic, Thanks to all on OEM fog lights and switch (Its Alive!)

Now how about the Emergency/ Parking Brake light. (it's on all the time)
Brakes / Emergency Brake / Fluid / no air in lines/ All functioning okay.
So do I have to remove part of the center console to get access to and play with the switch?
Yup it's right underneath it between the seats. I can't remember if the switch is normally open or normally closed, so the wire may be shorted to the transmission tunnel or simply popped off of the connector
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
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I'm subscribed to your thread.
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