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02-05-2013, 06:25 PM
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Location: Houston Texas
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
You're the Renix guru, not me. Lol.
I was just giving him numbers to compare too. Mine is overheating as well, at least I think it is. It goes up to 230. I've replaced the thermostat, housing, radiator, heater hoses and heater control valve. I'm just going to tap into the e-fan wiring and control it myself. Plus do away with the mech fan and install another e fan.
I was just giving him numbers to compare too. Mine is overheating as well, at least I think it is. It goes up to 230. I've replaced the thermostat, housing, radiator, heater hoses and heater control valve. I'm just going to tap into the e-fan wiring and control it myself. Plus do away with the mech fan and install another e fan.
02-05-2013, 06:27 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
You're the Renix guru, not me. Lol.
I was just giving him numbers to compare too. Mine is overheating as well, at least I think it is. It goes up to 230. I've replaced the thermostat, housing, radiator, heater hoses and heater control valve. I'm just going to tap into the e-fan wiring and control it myself. Plus do away with the mech fan and install another e fan.
I was just giving him numbers to compare too. Mine is overheating as well, at least I think it is. It goes up to 230. I've replaced the thermostat, housing, radiator, heater hoses and heater control valve. I'm just going to tap into the e-fan wiring and control it myself. Plus do away with the mech fan and install another e fan.
02-05-2013, 06:31 PM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Water pump would be my first step - the impellers degrade to nothing over time. Also backflush the radiator really well when you change the pump and swap the coolant.
02-05-2013, 06:35 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Yeah, I forgot, the water pump was replaced last July. It actually runs a lot better than it did before. Before, it would sit around 130, then shoot up to 220 in traffic. Now it stays between 190-215. Cept for one time it went to 230 in a drive through.
I also flushed my system 3 times, each time for about 15 minutes.
I also flushed my system 3 times, each time for about 15 minutes.
02-05-2013, 06:39 PM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Yeah, I forgot, the water pump was replaced last July. It actually runs a lot better than it did before. Before, it would sit around 130, then shoot up to 220 in traffic. Now it stays between 190-215. Cept for one time it went to 230 in a drive through.
I also flushed my system 3 times, each time for about 15 minutes.
Except fot the efan not kicking on the temps sound normal to me man. This engine likes to run ~200-210. Efan should kick on ~215.
02-05-2013, 06:41 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
According to my cheap gauge, that's about when it kicks on. I'm not used to driving passenger vehicles, so engine temps are unknown to me. I've been on choppers and Harleys for a very long time. This whole Jeep thing is all new to me.
02-05-2013, 07:17 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
02-05-2013, 07:22 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Isnt there a particular part number you should look for? is there any fab work needed? Im planning to hit up the JY tomorow to find one. they got about 10 old neons back there. if not there like three more JYs on that same street.
Seeing i finally got my 90 up and running again i figured i would start on the lil mods that are cheap and still maximize performance and work my way up
Seeing i finally got my 90 up and running again i figured i would start on the lil mods that are cheap and still maximize performance and work my way up
02-05-2013, 07:29 PM
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Isnt there a particular part number you should look for? is there any fab work needed? Im planning to hit up the JY tomorow to find one. they got about 10 old neons back there. if not there like three more JYs on that same street.
Seeing i finally got my 90 up and running again i figured i would start on the lil mods that are cheap and still maximize performance and work my way up
02-05-2013, 07:31 PM
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Is there any way to test the wiring for my rear o2 sensor? The mechanic said I was getting a bad reading from the rear o2 sensor and since it is a new o2 sensor he thinks it is the wiring going to the o2 sensor. Is there anyway to just bypass/get rid of the rear o2 all together?