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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Houston Texas
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
My trac bar mount was loose and popping.
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stroked to 4.6, Thanks to Teasdale'sMachine!
Has anyone used the Isuzu Corporate 12-bolt rear axle in a XJ or MJ? I have one available to me for $0 and the 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern matches my Waggoneer front 44 I have. It's just about an inch narrower, but its got to be better than the 35 thats in the comachee now. Search brought up nothing on the 12-bolt, and google just a couple of tech articles, but no swap info.
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Has anyone used the Isuzu Corporate 12-bolt rear axle in a XJ or MJ? I have one available to me for $0 and the 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern matches my Waggoneer front 44 I have. It's just about an inch narrower, but its got to be better than the 35 thats in the comachee now. Search brought up nothing on the 12-bolt, and google just a couple of tech articles, but no swap info.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/isuzu...bolt-help.html
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stroked to 4.6, Thanks to Teasdale'sMachine!
I looked into this a while back. It's a good choice, but a strange one. The biggest issue with that axle is the lack of aftermarket support and spare parts - it's not an axle you can just go to the junkyard to get replacement parts for.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/isuzu...bolt-help.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/isuzu...bolt-help.html
The one I have available is out of an amigo, 92 or 93 not sure, it has the 4.56 gears which is good since i'm not going larger than 33"s and it matches the 44, but the only locker i can find is an ARB air Locker. Not sure if it has a factory LSD, still researching that one. I'm thinking of keeping it open since this isn't going to be off road much, more like trail drives and such. Disc brakes too is a plus. Since its free, ill use it just to get rid of the 35.
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Pinehurst
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: H.O. 4.0L I6
are the bfg long trail t/a tires good? i was recommended them cuz i need new tires soon i wanna do some occasional 4wheeling but its mostly street driving for work lol
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Pinehurst
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: H.O. 4.0L I6
also will a 15x8 or 16x8 fit ok stock height? what amount of backspace do i need to clear suspension? and what size tire for either size...i only know low pro car fitment this is new territory for me lol
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Rocket Country MI
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
May i suggest toyo open country a/t, I've been running mine for almost 3 yrs on and off road, awesome performance for an a/t.
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: ks
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Helping a friend with his 87' xj pioneer with the renix 4.0. Its real hard to start, it will only fire/ spudder to a start after holding the gas pedal to the floor and cranking it for atleast 5 seconds. New fuel pump and it has good fuel pressure on the rail. New plugs, cap, rotor, coil... Could this be caused by a leaky fuel injector? We checked them and they were right around 16 ohms which is good however the injector closest to the radiator is externally leaking, o-rings more than likely. When he fires it up theres no black smoke so It cant be running to rich. Any ideas? Were going to test the plug wires next then perhaps get a timing light on the crank. I know the distributor doesnt change timing however.
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Pinehurst
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: H.O. 4.0L I6
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stroked to 4.6, Thanks to Teasdale'sMachine!
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: MO
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I've got a closed brake caliper with the pads still on. I'm trying to retract the piston so I can reinstall the caliper.
I've tried loosening (slightly until fluid flows) the bleeder and using a channel lock pliers on the little edge of the piston and have gently used a screwdriver between the pads but am making almost zero progress.
Does having the cap on the master cylinder play into effect here? I do have a c-clamp right now but I dont think it would be of much use until I can get the piston back enough to remove the inner pad.
Any other ideas?
I've tried loosening (slightly until fluid flows) the bleeder and using a channel lock pliers on the little edge of the piston and have gently used a screwdriver between the pads but am making almost zero progress.
Does having the cap on the master cylinder play into effect here? I do have a c-clamp right now but I dont think it would be of much use until I can get the piston back enough to remove the inner pad.
Any other ideas?
Junior Member