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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Junior Member
I've got a closed brake caliper with the pads still on. I'm trying to retract the piston so I can reinstall the caliper.
I've tried loosening (slightly until fluid flows) the bleeder and using a channel lock pliers on the little edge of the piston and have gently used a screwdriver between the pads but am making almost zero progress.
Does having the cap on the master cylinder play into effect here? I do have a c-clamp right now but I dont think it would be of much use until I can get the piston back enough to remove the inner pad.
Any other ideas?
I've tried loosening (slightly until fluid flows) the bleeder and using a channel lock pliers on the little edge of the piston and have gently used a screwdriver between the pads but am making almost zero progress.
Does having the cap on the master cylinder play into effect here? I do have a c-clamp right now but I dont think it would be of much use until I can get the piston back enough to remove the inner pad.
Any other ideas?
There is a tool made for this Job.
Remove the outer pad first.
Find a nice sized C clamp and put it on the CENTER of the piston. If it gets in a bind it won't go in.
Like this:
Or I prefer this tool.
They're cheap and they work well.
Member
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Location: MO
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Wow even though this is my first time disassembling brakes, I can't believe I didn't try to take off the outer pad.
Does this mean I need to bleed the entire system if I've only opened the bleeder at the LF caliper and popped the cap on the master cylinder once for 5 sec?
Thanks again guys!
Does this mean I need to bleed the entire system if I've only opened the bleeder at the LF caliper and popped the cap on the master cylinder once for 5 sec?
Thanks again guys!
Last edited by MirageMobile; 02-06-2013 at 01:51 PM.
Junior Member
Wow even though this is my first time disassembling brakes, I can't believe I didn't try to take off the outer pad.
Does this mean I need to bleed the entire system if I've only opened the bleeder at the LF caliper and popped the cap on the master cylinder once for 5 sec?
Thanks again guys!
Does this mean I need to bleed the entire system if I've only opened the bleeder at the LF caliper and popped the cap on the master cylinder once for 5 sec?
Thanks again guys!
Why the hell would you want to do that?!
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Helping a friend with his 87' xj pioneer with the renix 4.0. Its real hard to start, it will only fire/ spudder to a start after holding the gas pedal to the floor and cranking it for atleast 5 seconds. New fuel pump and it has good fuel pressure on the rail. New plugs, cap, rotor, coil... Could this be caused by a leaky fuel injector? We checked them and they were right around 16 ohms which is good however the injector closest to the radiator is externally leaking, o-rings more than likely. When he fires it up theres no black smoke so It cant be running to rich. Any ideas? Were going to test the plug wires next then perhaps get a timing light on the crank. I know the distributor doesnt change timing however.
Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting
Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.
Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.
The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.
Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.
You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.
If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer.
Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.
A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8" from the stock 5/16", or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.
Revised 01-26-2013
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Senior Member
Because i have a 98 motor complete in my garage, thats why. Im not going to spend $500+ on a new head when i can make a bracket for the coil pack and use an earlier exhaust manifold.
Senior Member
And my head isnt cracked, i have 2 cracked pistons so swaping in a lower mileage block that I already have makes way more sense than putting pistons, rings and bearings in the 265k mile motor in my rig.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
So I ripped the sensor out from the TC last night from some tree branches. It ripped at the port where the speedo gear is. What's the name of this sensor so I can get a new one. THanks
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Chickamauga Ga.
Posts: 3,493
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0