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XJ Ask the Question Thread
02-06-2013, 08:49 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
02-06-2013, 08:52 PM
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Year: 1994 and 1996
Model: Cherokee
I have no problem with the flex pipe and the original style header or the APN.
I know little about the fitment of the various years and when I looked at pics of the 2000-01 I could see it wouldn't bolt up to my front pipe.
I really just wanted to make sure what I needed as I get many conflicting statements. I am very new at the XJ but am learning.
Thanks to all for answers.
Any good shops/vendors for replacing the rest of the exhaust system?
I know little about the fitment of the various years and when I looked at pics of the 2000-01 I could see it wouldn't bolt up to my front pipe.
I really just wanted to make sure what I needed as I get many conflicting statements. I am very new at the XJ but am learning.
Thanks to all for answers.
Any good shops/vendors for replacing the rest of the exhaust system?
02-06-2013, 08:52 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
02-06-2013, 08:54 PM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by 96ss2283
I have no problem with the flex pipe and the original style header or the APN.
I know little about the fitment of the various years and when I looked at pics of the 2000-01 I could see it wouldn't bolt up to my front pipe.
I really just wanted to make sure what I needed as I get many conflicting statements. I am very new at the XJ but am learning.
Thanks to all for answers.
Any good shops/vendors for replacing the rest of the exhaust system?
I know little about the fitment of the various years and when I looked at pics of the 2000-01 I could see it wouldn't bolt up to my front pipe.
I really just wanted to make sure what I needed as I get many conflicting statements. I am very new at the XJ but am learning.
Thanks to all for answers.
Any good shops/vendors for replacing the rest of the exhaust system?
02-06-2013, 08:54 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
02-06-2013, 08:56 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
02-06-2013, 09:41 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
You know, I never asked this, not sure why though. The rear bumpstops on my 01 what size bolt is that. 4 heads broke so need to drill out and try to get new bolts up there. Heat and pb should work them out I hope. Wouldn't be the first set of broken bolts
02-06-2013, 10:46 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
90 xj 4.0
What do ALL of the vaccum lines going to the ball in bumper do. I relocated it and the damn things in the way. Id rather get rid of it but im not sure what it controls.
I do not have Vac disconnect axle and I do not have the a/c hooked up anymore. Ripped out everything but the compressor. Cruise control also ia not needed and does not currently work.
What do ALL of the vaccum lines going to the ball in bumper do. I relocated it and the damn things in the way. Id rather get rid of it but im not sure what it controls.
I do not have Vac disconnect axle and I do not have the a/c hooked up anymore. Ripped out everything but the compressor. Cruise control also ia not needed and does not currently work.
02-06-2013, 10:52 PM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
90 xj 4.0
What do ALL of the vaccum lines going to the ball in bumper do. I relocated it and the damn things in the way. Id rather get rid of it but im not sure what it controls.
I do not have Vac disconnect axle and I do not have the a/c hooked up anymore. Ripped out everything but the compressor. Cruise control also ia not needed and does not currently work.
What do ALL of the vaccum lines going to the ball in bumper do. I relocated it and the damn things in the way. Id rather get rid of it but im not sure what it controls.
I do not have Vac disconnect axle and I do not have the a/c hooked up anymore. Ripped out everything but the compressor. Cruise control also ia not needed and does not currently work.
02-06-2013, 10:55 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
doesnt it also have to do with power to the wheels. I know i still have a vacuum leak or two i need to find. But i am missin the ball. And when i first got my 90 it wouldnt go past 45mph(hills were a major issue) with out sputtering self to hell and back. i have fixed most vacuum leaks so the power is back to full but i was curious abnout it too.
02-06-2013, 10:58 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
I dont have heat/a.c/cruise....is it just wasting space at this point? I only want essentials in the engine bay no other junk. Trying to clean/organize the wires in looms and connectors.
02-06-2013, 11:00 PM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
I dont have heat/a.c/cruise....is it just wasting space at this point? I only want essentials in the engine bay no other junk. Trying to clean/organize the wires in looms and connectors.
02-06-2013, 11:04 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
Did that, then converted to the open style cooling system and mounted a square universal tank and bracket in the old spot. Now the ball is sitting loose between the battery and coolant bottle just taking up space.
02-06-2013, 11:04 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Test the CPS output. Here's how:
Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting
Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.
Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.
The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.
Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.
You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.
If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer.
Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.
A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8" from the stock 5/16", or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.
Revised 01-26-2013
Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting
Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.
Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.
The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.
Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.
You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.
If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer.
Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.
A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8" from the stock 5/16", or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.
Revised 01-26-2013