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Old 02-12-2013, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by salad

okay FINE!

1998 Model Year produced 1997 - 1998 <--- JETRONIC, Bosch "Neon" xxx703
1999 Model Year produced 1998 - 1999 <--- USCAR, Bosch "Neon" xxx784

happy? lol :P

I always assume people refer to the year on their VIN and not the actual build date.
I expect people to refer to their model year, which includes split years. Most prominent are '90/91 Renix/HO changes and '96/97 changes showing up early.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I expect people to refer to their model year, which includes split years. Most prominent are '90/91 Renix/HO changes and '96/97 changes showing up early.
VIN is the model year lol
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by salad

VIN is the model year lol
Whatever, I'm tired lol
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:21 AM
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Best way to bleed the brakes on a 88 xj.

What order is best to follow?

What size are the bleeders on the 88?

Any tips or tricks.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
Actually now that I think of it, No i did not. I had to take all the tools I "thought" id need to do it out if my jeep while the wife borrowed it to go to the store while fix hers. I had bought 2 cans the night before to use but it slipped my mind.

Well, tomorrow I will be taking tires off and thoroughly spraying everything down and do some driving to see if it gets better. Also purchased some brake fluid to bleed them if the other methods dont work
Google "bedding in brake pads" also.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I expect people to refer to their model year, which includes split years. Most prominent are '90/91 Renix/HO changes and '96/97 changes showing up early.
90 was REnix. 91 was HO. No split year.

10th digit in the VIN is the year model.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by desertxj206
best way to bleed the brakes on a 88 xj.

What order is best to follow?

What size are the bleeders on the 88?

Any tips or tricks.
rr, lr, rf, lf. 7/16
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:44 AM
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You guys think $1700 is a good price for a G2 Dana 44 out of a TJ? The axle has around 10k miles on it, disc brakes, and an ARB locker. For all the parts I was looking at throwing into my Dana 30 it was gonna be about $1500 with a locker, gears, and chromo shafts. I figured an extra $200 for a stronger axle that'll be a bolt in it would be foolish not to get it.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:04 AM
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hello...does anyone knows the specifications of the all gears thrust clearance of jeep cherokee ? cause i checked in internet and i got only the first , second and third gear but its missing the the four and five ..thankx
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:07 AM
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Take the 1700 and just beef up your axle.
Hell..RWKHAUS is selling a kit with 2 Yukon Zip (Air actuated) lockers, 2 gear sets, 2 master install kits, and an ARB compressor for like 2k...then youll have front and rear air lockers
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Xj88
Take the 1700 and just beef up your axle.
Hell..RWKHAUS is selling a kit with 2 Yukon Zip (Air actuated) lockers, 2 gear sets, 2 master install kits, and an ARB compressor for like 2k...then youll have front and rear air lockers
But whay about the g2 housing.

I would probably pickbup the g2 axle and run it
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Tylerzap
Is the 99 intake mod a bolt in on a 98? Worth the $25 for the manifold?
Is it worth $25, IMO yes. But I was also doing the bored TB, free flow exhaust, cowl intake and neon injectors. Did I feel a difference, despite what the 'professionals' have written with their dyno readings, absolutely yes. And the extra/easier air movement made my slomaster sound deeper as well, as a side bonus. There is nearly twice the air volume movement in the 99+ intake mani...also the 99+ has much smoother runners as compared to the 98 and earlier. So I'm not sure why a person wouldn't want to....oh probably because with all of 'these' upgrades and 31" tires you will loose 3-4 mpg. but man does she roll like a scalded dog!

And because a hater is gonna hate I did these upgrades about a month or more apart from each other and in this order.
1. injectors
2. 2.5" exhaust and apn headers
3. cowl intake
4. intake manifold
5. bored TB
With each upgrade there was an improvement in; acceleration from stop and highway merging, sans the cowl intake...that just made it sound meaner.
Last edited by donkeypunch; 02-13-2013 at 09:55 AM. Reason: fat finger
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:43 AM
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It's all in your head.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
It's all in your head.
Isn't that all that matters? Lol if I feel better I'm happy
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Xj88
Take the 1700 and just beef up your axle.
Hell..RWKHAUS is selling a kit with 2 Yukon Zip (Air actuated) lockers, 2 gear sets, 2 master install kits, and an ARB compressor for like 2k...then youll have front and rear air lockers
I already have a locked and geared 8.8 in the rear
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