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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Yea I just drained the fluid, im goin to do another fluid change this weekend. Just trying to clear it up a bit before I go and get it flushed. I've heard doin it with old fluid can cause debris to.clog in the valve body. After a couple changes it should be good to go with a flush. I hope.......
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: seattle
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Year: 96 zj
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
shimming front axle
I need to know how to shim the gears and or pinion gear in my dana 30. Its has 4:56 gears. I just swapped the axle and noticed some slop in the gears after getting it all back together. I have a shim kit just not sure where or how to use them. Any help? Thanks!
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Chickamauga Ga.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You need to take the jeep and have the gears set up, it's not a shade tree job.
Newbie
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Year: 96 zj
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The gears are set up. I had the gears done then later bent my axle. I put another axle in. Now I just need to know how to shim the gears and or pinion
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wichita
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Sputtering and Lurching
I have a '99 Cherokee Classic 4.0L. During my first few accelerations it starts sputtering. If I step on the gas it lurches out of the sputtering and then drives fine for the rest of the time it is running. Also, my Cherokee will sputter and lurch when I am in gear and stopped at a light. When in neutral this stops. With this the check engine light is on and the code is reading an O2 sensor. I have replaced both of them, the spark plugs are less than a year old, and I change the oil every 3,000 miles. The vacuum line looks like it is in good shape as well. Any thoughts?
CF Veteran
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Location: Chickamauga Ga.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: pittsburgh PA
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
just bought a wj to go along with my xj...anyone know about the 231 amc transfer case thats in the wj? it has the vaccum to engage front axle. im gonna swap out front axle to a newer one, can i run this t case and just get rid of the vaccum crap? and is it any good?
CF Veteran
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Eh did t have vac disco or a 231, I'm guessing you meant to type yj? It's as simple as swapin in a non disco axle and forgetting you ever had a disco axle. And it's a np231 not an amc t case
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Frederick, Maryland
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
I have a '99 Cherokee Classic 4.0L. During my first few accelerations it starts sputtering. If I step on the gas it lurches out of the sputtering and then drives fine for the rest of the time it is running. Also, my Cherokee will sputter and lurch when I am in gear and stopped at a light. When in neutral this stops. With this the check engine light is on and the code is reading an O2 sensor. I have replaced both of them, the spark plugs are less than a year old, and I change the oil every 3,000 miles. The vacuum line looks like it is in good shape as well. Any thoughts?
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Here's how to clean the tb and iac.
Courtesy of TJWalker:
--------------------------------------------------------------------
The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is moved in, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is moved out, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea.
CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL
Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to)
"Gently" wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged
Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and is best for this task. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.
Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner
It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled
Courtesy of TJWalker:
--------------------------------------------------------------------
The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is moved in, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is moved out, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea.
CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL
Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to)
"Gently" wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged
Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and is best for this task. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.
Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner
It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: pittsburgh PA
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
it has the vac disconect on front axle that im going to change out but trans case has vaccum to run the disconnect...can i just run that t case and get rid of vac lines? it is a new process t case but tag does say 231 amc on it
CF Veteran
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The t case has a breather not a vac line iirc. Don't worry about anything other than the axle. Just cut the vacuum tube to the axle short and plug it.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Owensville, MO
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Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.9
I have a '99 Cherokee Classic 4.0L. During my first few accelerations it starts sputtering. If I step on the gas it lurches out of the sputtering and then drives fine for the rest of the time it is running. Also, my Cherokee will sputter and lurch when I am in gear and stopped at a light. When in neutral this stops. With this the check engine light is on and the code is reading an O2 sensor. I have replaced both of them, the spark plugs are less than a year old, and I change the oil every 3,000 miles. The vacuum line looks like it is in good shape as well. Any thoughts?