Nasty

From what I can tell, the dimensions of the doors are exactly the same. The internal parts and mirrors on the other are very different. There are a few threads about interchanging some of the older model xj doors for newer models in order to achieve the single window and fold in mirrors.

NewKindOfClown

Latch design, window, interior trim/door depth. At some point, hinges. Mirrors, but those are a bolt-on swap.

dukie564

fawkkkk

Nasty

1. Remove the line from the caliper.
2. Remove the screw that you see your photo.
3. PB away.
4. Vice grip the top portion as close as you can to the bracket without being on the tube
5. Wrench the bottom and turn away.
You should have no problem. The vice grips are going to leave teeth marks, but it will come a part and it should be fine enough to connect new hoses with no prob

DESERTXJ206

Its so tight the entire bracket and line wanted to turn with vice grips. For now im going to leave the line for a couple days till i can figure out my options. I just want the damn thing to be able to stop on its own. It has no pressure so im trying to get that all situated. Btw the hose isnt leaking in the pic thats penetrating oil.


Side question:

Since i have to use opposite parta for the calipers, would i also have to buy opposite lines that autozone offers?

Also, what type of fitting is that brake line? Bubble flare, single or double flare?

theyammieguy

Lines should be the same. Double flare.

You need to hold the other side while turning with the vise grips. Only problem I see with using vise grips, you can crush the nut since it's hollow. Not a problem if you're buying new, but if you're reusing, it can become a problem.

DESERTXJ206

The nut is on the upper side of what id ve replacing. I may be confused on how you meant to break it loose. The nut is starting to round from using force. I did try to use the right size wrench and with such force it started to round the nut. I then tried vice grips but will try again.

Nasty

Use an adjustable wrench or something on the bracket and vice grips on the nut. Not to tight, but just tight enough that it will not move around. If you can get the teeth just in there enough that it is not going to move around, crush, or split it. You can do it.

DESERTXJ206

Ill have to try that tomorrow. Tonight im getting this damn caliper replaced, attempting to bleed the system and seeing if iv got brakes. Hopefully by midnight tonight ill be able to take her for a spin. Its been down for a few days now and is starting to **** me off.

theyammieguy

This isn't a question, but since we're on the topic of brakes.

Have any of you back bled the system? I started doing it this way a while back on customers bikes and it is a hell of a lot easier than pumping. I bought a 60cc syringe on ebay, used for catheders. Works like a charm. Not sure how it will work on ABS systems though.

Just a thought, for when you're having a hard time bleeding the system.
It can be a pain in the rump when trying to bleed rear brakes on bike when the MC is on the bottom of the frame.

Nasty

Never tried it. I usually get my son to give me a hand by pumping the brakes while I release the air and dirty fluid from the line. I learned it that way from my mom and older brother. I figure I am simply passing it on down.

I Leak Oil

Abs makes things scary. If you reverse bleed a system with abs your asking for trouble.

theyammieguy

That's the way I always did it as well.

theyammieguy

Explain. Not sure why ABS is scary.

I Leak Oil

If you reverse run fluid through an abs module it will occasionally think"there is a leak here, I should lock out that brake line". Causing locked brakes as soon as pressure is applied.

If abs is involved. For safety I would never reverse bleed the system.

Personal experience tells me thia. Not guesses