1976Mustang

I think so, I'm gonna replace the belt anyways, just wanna know if i should try replacing that too.

straightsixjeep

If its not causing the belt to chirp like crazy nor is it putting a groove/cutting the belt Id say your fine.

DESERTXJ206

The thing is is its only when i release the brakes its give a soft chirp. I thought it was the fronts but figured out its the rears.

straightsixjeep

Sounds like they aren't releasing 100%

Loosest

Did my best at compression test at compression test today. Did it with some friends, did our best with what we thought would work. We used this process.
Blocked intake valve. Removed all plugs. Cranked the crankshaft pulley with ratchet + extension. Got these readings 1-30 2-30 3-15 4-28 5-50 all psi. I noticed that cranking got really hard, is something binding? Do I need to do this again, I read a lot of people's posts about this and they say cranked engine, is this how they are doing it? Mine seem a lot lower.

straightsixjeep

Why did you block the intake? You want the throttle body to be at WOT. Pull the relay for the fuel pump and disconnect the ignition coil so you dont have fuel or spark. Then hook the compression gauge up to one cylinder. Go inside the jeep, press the gas pedal all the way down, and crank the engine over 4 revolutions.

dukie564

Yea that was def not the correct procedure lol. Do what straightsix said.

All cylinders should read 120-150psi

jen5

Hello all,

I am really new to repairing my own vehicle and I am at a point where I am wondering if it is worth it to keep fixing things or just sell it for parts.

I did my very first tune up, minus the fuel filter, about 2 months ago. So it has new spark plugs, distributor cap, and wires. Ran fine after that. Now it will not start, no clicks just the beep when you turn the key and the lights come on. Will not jump either, same beep. I replaced the starter relay and the starter today but still no luck. Where should I go next? I read about the neutral safety switch being an issue, but would that cause it to not start at all even with a jump? If yes then I will probably sell it for parts, I am not willing/able to put 2-300 into it again if that is the only thing left I can do on my own....

Any help/direction would be appreciated thanks!

NewKindOfClown

Try starting it with the shifter in Neutral. Easy NSS test.

Cherokeekid4x4

How in the world do i change the drivers side motor mount?

odgreen

This. I dont understand how a person can scrap a vehicle over a $200 part......
Google nss cleaning. Few hours of work and you can save $$$$

cruiser54

Support the oil pan with a floor jack with some wood on it. Change it. Do the passenger side also.

hick92

I've seen worse scraping a nice s10 blazer because of a blown head gasket

NewKindOfClown

Related question: I was looking at Brown Dog mounts to replace my factory '88 ones. Are the brackets worth it, or am I good with just the mounts for $200 less?

RatchetMaster10

The cause of your noise is the metal to metal contact between the frame of the shoe and the backing plate. All you need to do to fix this is pull the drum off get some brake grease and apply the grease to the contact surface on the backing plate where the shoe sits. There will be three contact points per shoe, one high, one low, and one in the middle. Use a small pry bar or flat blade screwdriver to move the shoe off the backing plate just enough to get some grease on the contact point. Also at correct adjustment the rear shoes should slightly drag against the drum.

It's the easiest mount to do, place a block of wood on a floor jack and slightly raise the engine by the oil pan. This week take pressure off the mount. Then take it the 18mm bolt that goes thru the center of the mount. Next undo the two 15mm bolts one from the top and one from the bottom.