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Old 02-16-2013, 08:07 PM
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And since cruiser is here, how straightforward is a C101 delete? Just label all the wires on both sides, remove brackets, and solder? I assume there's a hole there big enough for all the wires?
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
And since cruiser is here, how straightforward is a C101 delete? Just label all the wires on both sides, remove brackets, and solder? I assume there's a hole there big enough for all the wires?
No hole needed. Solder and shrink tube. Not sure it's worth it but others have done it and been pleased with the results. As a matter of fact, a buddy of mine did it because he had driveability issues and I hooked up my DRB to his 88. Showed a poor reading from the CTS. We wiggled the C101 and the reading was good. Wiggled again and it was bad.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
And since cruiser is here, how straightforward is a C101 delete? Just label all the wires on both sides, remove brackets, and solder? I assume there's a hole there big enough for all the wires?
C101 delete?
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

No hole needed. Solder and shrink tube. Not sure it's worth it but others have done it and been pleased with the results. As a matter of fact, a buddy of mine did it because he had driveability issues and I hooked up my DRB to his 88. Showed a poor reading from the CTS. We wiggled the C101 and the reading was good. Wiggled again and it was bad.
Having trouble diagnosing a misfire/backfire, and problems are compounding. Started it up after work and it was idling at what sounded like 2k+ RPMs. Vacuum lines are all good. Tapped on the C101 a few times, and it dropped to the lowest and smoothest I've ever had it. Still backfiring, though.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by theyammieguy

C101 delete?
'87/88/early '89 Renix rigs used a "C101" connector to pass the wire harness from engine bay to cab.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
'87/88/early '89 Renix rigs used a C101 connector to pass the wire harness from engine bay to cab.
Not really. That's a different connector. The C101 is behind the brake booster and is just a connector from one part of the harness to another.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:17 PM
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Ah yes, I've read the renix threads about cleaning that. Forgot the name.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Having trouble diagnosing a misfire/backfire, and problems are compounding. Started it up after work and it was idling at what sounded like 2k+ RPMs. Vacuum lines are all good. Tapped on the C101 a few times, and it dropped to the lowest and smoothest I've ever had it. Still backfiring, though.
Ever clean it per my instructions?
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Not really. That's a different connector. The C101 is behind the brake booster and is just a connector from one part of the harness to another.
Right. I had the right part; wrong purpose in my head. I've wiped it down and sprayed it with electronics cleaner a while ago, but I haven't fully cleaned it. I figured I'd bypass if it isn't a problem, and then I wouldn't have to worry about it. Would you advise against that?
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Right. I had the right part; wrong purpose in my head. I've wiped it down and sprayed it with electronics cleaner a while ago, but I haven't fully cleaned it. I figured I'd bypass if it isn't a problem, and then I wouldn't have to worry about it. Would you advise against that?
Clean it per the instructions and tweak the female connectors tighter with a dental pick or the like.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Try starting it with the shifter in Neutral. Easy NSS test.
Of the NSS is really bad he may need to push his shift level with a lil force towards the dash. Mine is gummed up bad and the only way to start is to hold the shifter forward. Eventually I need to remove and clean when the weather gets warn
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Clean it per the instructions and tweak the female connectors tighter with a dental pick or the like.
Will do on Monday if the weather cooperates. Thanks.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Of the NSS is really bad he may need to push his shift level with a lil force towards the dash. Mine is gummed up bad and the only way to start is to hold the shifter forward. Eventually I need to remove and clean when the weather gets warn
At first, I thought that was directed toward my high idle issue. I was gonna ask how I should push my column shifter towards the dash and what it would accomplish
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Of the NSS is really bad he may need to push his shift level with a lil force towards the dash. Mine is gummed up bad and the only way to start is to hold the shifter forward. Eventually I need to remove and clean when the weather gets warn
My nss is dirty sometimes it needs put in neutral to start it
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:34 PM
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You can try cycling the shifter from Park to 1st several times to help free the connector up.
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