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XJ Ask the Question Thread
03-02-2013, 12:32 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yes i replaced both. Oil pressure works fine. Thw engine temp one seems to work fine but the needle seems to be off by alot. Way below where it should be, but the temp does go up and stuff and stays steady after its running for awhile. I just dont know the temp because the needle is off.
03-02-2013, 12:53 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/re...-8-25-a-57807/
Read through this and see if it answers your questions. You use all you existing stock parts and strip down rear axle to the shaft. Put on the new backing plate and the soft line of the caliper goes to the hard line that runs on the axle. You'll need to change the PV internals to that of the zj
03-02-2013, 01:01 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I'm bypassing the proportioning on my Comanche. They fail. If it hasn't yet, it will. In the case of a Comanche proportioning setup, it will explode when it fails, and we lose our brakes.
03-02-2013, 01:12 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: ERH 4.0L Power Tech I-6 (HO)
It's the sound of victory. Creeeeaaak. Creeeeaaak. Shudder.
The rewarding sound of your effort overcoming the friction between the bolt threads, and the evil factory loctite. Good vs. evil. And evil losing.
03-02-2013, 01:18 PM
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Year: 95
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yes it does have spacers. we just got ones that are bigger. Wanna do it right though so not putting em on til we correct the control arm issues. I'll keep you guys updated on what route we decide to go with. Thanks so much for your help!
03-02-2013, 01:19 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
I agree about the only needed it time. Sadly here in ny, those times arise too much even when driving normally. I'm looking to do the internals and leave it from there but there have been ppl that don't even do internals an everything works fine. It's a trial an error thing
03-02-2013, 01:47 PM
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03-02-2013, 01:59 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stroked to 4.6, Thanks to Teasdale'sMachine!
So if I just use the entire brake setup from the 99 XJ with the 8.25 and ZJ discs and prop internals on the MJ, there's no need to deal with that adjusting valve in the rear right?
03-02-2013, 03:00 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
It proportions based on bed height. There's a cable on the rear diff that XJs don't have, and it opens/closes the brake valve based on bed height (as a weight sensor). More weight in the bed means more rear brakes.
There are three problems:
Many of the valves were not drilled all the way through when they were made. That means no rear brake power.
If that proportioning system fails due to age and stress, which they do, the valves breaks apart and you lose your brakes without warning.
The Comanche setup has more lines than an XJ. There's a second line running to the rear axle, which doubles the chances of a brake line rusting through.
One fix for all this is to plug the failsafe line (which XJs don't even have), and run the remaining rear line to the rubber hose instead of the proportioner. This gives full power to rear brakes at all times, and it's what I'm doing.
There are three problems:
Many of the valves were not drilled all the way through when they were made. That means no rear brake power.
If that proportioning system fails due to age and stress, which they do, the valves breaks apart and you lose your brakes without warning.
The Comanche setup has more lines than an XJ. There's a second line running to the rear axle, which doubles the chances of a brake line rusting through.
One fix for all this is to plug the failsafe line (which XJs don't even have), and run the remaining rear line to the rubber hose instead of the proportioner. This gives full power to rear brakes at all times, and it's what I'm doing.
03-02-2013, 03:29 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stroked to 4.6, Thanks to Teasdale'sMachine!
It proportions based on bed height. There's a cable on the rear diff that XJs don't have, and it opens/closes the brake valve based on bed height (as a weight sensor). More weight in the bed means more rear brakes.
There are three problems:
Many of the valves were not drilled all the way through when they were made. That means no rear brake power.
If that proportioning system fails due to age and stress, which they do, the valves breaks apart and you lose your brakes without warning.
The Comanche setup has more lines than an XJ. There's a second line running to the rear axle, which doubles the chances of a brake line rusting through.
One fix for all this is to plug the failsafe line (which XJs don't even have), and run the remaining rear line to the rubber hose instead of the proportioner. This gives full power to rear brakes at all times, and it's what I'm doing.
03-02-2013, 03:33 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok so I cleaned the throttle body changed the air filter and I plan on running sea foam and changing spark plugs. What else should I do to try to increase mpg? Should change any sensors and if so which ones?
03-02-2013, 03:34 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
03-02-2013, 03:42 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Would my jeep running at about 198 degrees fully warmed up give me a little lower mpg? Everything in the cooling system is factory spec, new radiator, heater core, hoses and flush