94XjSport94

I just did one the other day...

Take the drum off, rotate whichever stud you want to replace to the left side of the brake hardware and beat it with a hammer to almost remove it then slowly tap it out so it doesn't get hung up, then slide your new one in and install it by putting washers on and running the lug on backwards to pull the splines in. I didn't remove any breaks from mine

Lowrange2

You must have smaller hands than me...

Brennidon

Well i have a question for all you gear heads! i have a 1987 jeep cherokee 4wd with 202xxx on the clock. been driving the jeep all week/weekend with no problems yet today after i come home for lunch and get ready to head back to work(it had sat for 1hour) the jeep would turn over but it wouldnt start. when my wife came in she told me she could smell gas when she was near my jeep. i had found a post where someone had this problem and changed their battery and it was fixed, but i had just put in a new battery 3 or so days ago so i know its not that. any idea as to what it could be? im going to check the fuel rail to see if i can get any gas to spray out. im thinking its flooding for some reason. any help will be appreciated sorry for the wall of txt.

NewKindOfClown

Well that taillight ground is gonna stay corroded cause I'm stripping the screw. I did find evidence of my previous river crossings. Seashells and sand in my taillight:




Question #2 today:
What would cause my DS U-joints to suddenly start hitting my downpipe? Started a few days ago with no known change. I can hear it in a straight line with the windows down or radio off, and it's a loud banging in corners. Definitely that spot because there's bare metal on both components.

Exhaust loose?

Cherokeekid4x4

Try giving it gas until it starts then lay on the gas for awhile. Mine did the same thing

Brennidon

after the first try at starting it i tried holding down the gas but it didnt do anything different..also tried pumping the gas but no luck..a buddy told me to check the fuel pressure regulator so when i go on my next break im going to check it out. if i heard right if i take the hose off and gas comes out then the regulator is bad correct? hopefully thats all it is seeing as the motor locked up in my wifes 2001 cherokee last thursday if i can interchange some parts then i should be good for a while if my jeep dies lol

NewKindOfClown

There isn't a lot you can interchange unless you do a fairly large swap. You have an older Renix engine ('87-90), and she has the High Output ('91-01) with the late model change to distributorless ignition.

Brennidon

ugh i was afraid of that =( figures seeing as i have a whole slew of parts sitting there wanting to be used

Brennidon

woot fixed the jeep..turns out the gas line that goes to the fuel rail came off some how.

dukie564

well that could have ended badly. Glad you found that quick lol

Ninja Falco

Timing issue. Ive got the timing set at tdc and at 0. The rotor is just past the 1 wire. When i start it up and check the timing with a light its reading at about 6-8. Ive tried moving the distributor a notch forward and back it misfires and backfires. I know the computer controls the timing so when I hit it with the light is it supposed to read 0?

odgreen

No. Its supposed to read about 8º advanced

dukie564

First, stop moving the distributor forward and backwards, the timing is controlled by the PCM on these trucks. You will only succeed in screwing up the spark/fuel synchronization by messing with the base timing - which is not adjustable.

1. Set the engine at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the No. 1 cylinder compression stroke.
2. Position the slot in the oil pump gear SLIGHTLY BEFORE 11 o'clock position.
3. Position the base mounting slot at the 1 o'clock position and install the distributor. NOTE: The distributor will rotate clockwise as the gears engage.
3. Stick a toothpick through hole in distributor housing to align with hole in pulse ring.

4. Check that the centerline of the mounting slot aligns with the centerline of the clamp bolt hole. Install the clamp and bolt.
5. Remove the toothpick.
6. Install Cam sensor connector
7. install distributor cap

this may help also:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html


The distributor is correctly installed when:
the rotor is pointed at the 5 o'clock position (4.0L engine)
the toothpick pin is still installed to distributor.
the number 1 cylinder piston is set at top dead center (TDC) (compression stroke)
the centerline of the slot at the base of the distributor is aligned to the centerline of the distributor hold-down bolt hole on the engine. In this position, the hold-down bolt should easily pass through the slot and into the engine.

cruiser54

Actually, do this:

And the timing is what the timing is according to where the ECU wants it to be.

But, you screw with the dizzy by moving it around and your injectors fire at the wrong time and the spark has a long jump from the rotor to the cap terminals.




Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.

Revised 07/03/2012

denbjornen

Not sure if this is the place for my question... But I'm looking to paint my new door and quarter panel matte black so that they don't look ultra ghetto on my xj. I've done some preliminary research and know that I need to get some matte paint, primer, sandpaper, and maybe clear coat with a flattening agent? Not sure... If anybody else has done a matte painting, it'd be cool to have your advice. I have a compressor and paint gun