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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Wasn't that myth busted on the dyno?
As far as I know the intake, power steering pump maybe, brackets on that side, and the pulley.
As far as I know the intake, power steering pump maybe, brackets on that side, and the pulley.
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Houston Texas
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
'99-Up Horseshoe Intake
Myth: According to that great wealth of information that is never wrong, the Internet says you'll get a 5-30hp gain thanks to the '99-up 4.0L's swooped, equal length runners and larger plenum volume.
Our Thoughts: While a free-flow intake manifold can deliver more power, it's only going to allow as much air to flow as the cylinder head and camshaft will call for. Upping the intake runner volume too much will cause the intake charge to lose velocity, killing low- and mid-speed power and torque. On a '98-earlier engine running a stock camshaft and unported cylinder head, it's wasted effort.
Claimed Gains: 5-30hp
Actual Gains: 5hp loss on Trasborg's '98 XJ (Project Mileage Master)
Read more: http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...#ixzz2N0Sxdk7H
I guess if I were to drop in a comp cam and 62mm TB, I might see some good gains.
Myth: According to that great wealth of information that is never wrong, the Internet says you'll get a 5-30hp gain thanks to the '99-up 4.0L's swooped, equal length runners and larger plenum volume.
Our Thoughts: While a free-flow intake manifold can deliver more power, it's only going to allow as much air to flow as the cylinder head and camshaft will call for. Upping the intake runner volume too much will cause the intake charge to lose velocity, killing low- and mid-speed power and torque. On a '98-earlier engine running a stock camshaft and unported cylinder head, it's wasted effort.
Claimed Gains: 5-30hp
Actual Gains: 5hp loss on Trasborg's '98 XJ (Project Mileage Master)
Read more: http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...#ixzz2N0Sxdk7H
I guess if I were to drop in a comp cam and 62mm TB, I might see some good gains.
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: gainesville florida
Posts: 22
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242
yes i'm lifting it this week only 3" and thank ya'll for the info i didn't think it would do anything to the mileage but i just had to ask thanks again ya'll
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cylinder
cracked manifold
I will need to replace manifold; I keep coming around to the "Dorman" for my 95
6 cylinder; Any thoughts or experience with this brand ? I am looking at OE type model with flex joints/ "limited Lifetime Guarantee"...
Is there a "performance" manifold that may have some hp addition within a reasonable budget.
When ("when") I get the fuel injectors off any "must do" maitanance that would make sense during the manifold repair ?
Thanks
CB
6 cylinder; Any thoughts or experience with this brand ? I am looking at OE type model with flex joints/ "limited Lifetime Guarantee"...
Is there a "performance" manifold that may have some hp addition within a reasonable budget.
When ("when") I get the fuel injectors off any "must do" maitanance that would make sense during the manifold repair ?
Thanks
CB
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Running happily with the Dorman unit, I didn't know that there were headers back then. I think some of them are even cheaper. Someone with a clue will likely chime in
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cylinder
Gauges
Temperature, oil pressure and battery charge gauges are "flat"; I have just replaced ignition switch to remedy elec problems etc....thought maybe gauges would respond but no luck. Seems like it may be a single issue rather than all three bad at once. Any experience or trouble shooting thoughts. Dash and trim is loose, I ready to pull instruments, but don't know if that will help.
Thanks,
CB
Thanks,
CB
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Posts: 21,029
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Temperature, oil pressure and battery charge gauges are "flat"; I have just replaced ignition switch to remedy elec problems etc....thought maybe gauges would respond but no luck. Seems like it may be a single issue rather than all three bad at once. Any experience or trouble shooting thoughts. Dash and trim is loose, I ready to pull instruments, but don't know if that will help.
Thanks,
CB
Thanks,
CB
Good luck. I'm heading to work. Somebody help this guy out
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 1,146
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
Temperature, oil pressure and battery charge gauges are "flat"; I have just replaced ignition switch to remedy elec problems etc....thought maybe gauges would respond but no luck. Seems like it may be a single issue rather than all three bad at once. Any experience or trouble shooting thoughts. Dash and trim is loose, I ready to pull instruments, but don't know if that will help.
Thanks,
CB
Thanks,
CB
I'll borrow this and quote it from Cruiser54, who is highly knowledgeable on the electrical of our Jeeps. Read below.
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https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cr...2/#post2114737
Improving the Instrument Panel Ground
The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release ****. The screw will have either a ¼" or 5/16" head on it.
This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things.
The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple.
Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10" long. On one end, crimp on a ¼" round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8" round wire terminal.
Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other.
Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release ****. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely.
**Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12" long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**
Revised 11-29-2011
Last edited by onlyinajeep726; 03-08-2013 at 09:32 PM.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Fountain Inn, SC
Posts: 1,085
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Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
anybody run this bumper? without the brush guard?
http://custom4x4fabrication.com/97frontbumper3.jpg
its the XJ Winch Bumper on http://custom4x4fabrication.com/front_xj.html
http://custom4x4fabrication.com/97frontbumper3.jpg
its the XJ Winch Bumper on http://custom4x4fabrication.com/front_xj.html
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stroked to 4.6, Thanks to Teasdale'sMachine!
The 35 under Manuel's XJ as well as XJs with manual transmissions, are the same 35s found under automatics. Just use your old DS and you'll be fine. I knew you'd fine one without a 7 hour round trip.