theyammieguy

If you like your paint, don't use that.

Use wd-40, or goo gone.

TheTraeDavis

Ok.. Having some issues..

I Cracked my block in my 99 WJ Laredo in September 2012.. Its been down for about 6 months now cause I lost hope and didn't want to spend $1800 - $2200 on a new motor..

Well about a week after the motor went I bought a 90 XJ with a lost title for $350.. A mechanic/family friend told me it will bold right up I just had to move all of my accessories over to the new block. So, I fabricated my motor mounts and made polyurathain bushings for them did what he told me to do as far as accessories go..

here is where I'm over my head.. and I considered this before I got it in and all mounted up and practically ready to start.. but I thought, maybe it wouldn't matter..

The ignition system on my 99 is a COP ignition.. and well the 90 is not.. I connected everything as it was on the old block, went to start it and... it rolls over and it tries to start.. I even got it to run and got up to about 600rpm before it back fired and died.. I'm completely stumped and I can't find JACK on this swap any where.. everyone says its impossible cause of the COP.. but why would it try to run and that still doesn't make sense to me considering the firing order hasn't changed on the I6's UGH...

I would be so grateful for some input or direction.

oh btw my front end is not intact so my external temp censer is not connected along with head lights..

When I was trying to start it the EVIC flashed something like "Disconnected Wire" or something along those lines.. would the the temp censor effect that or would it only prompt me if it was mechanical?

TheTraeDavis

I Cracked my block in my 99 WJ Laredo in September 2012.. Its been down for about 6 months now cause I lost hope and didn't want to spend $1800 - $2200 on a new motor..

Well about a week after the motor went I bought a 90 XJ with a lost title for $350.. A mechanic/family friend told me it will bold right up I just had to move all of my accessories over to the new block. So, I fabricated my motor mounts and made polyurathain bushings for them did what he told me to do as far as accessories go..

here is where I'm over my head.. and I considered this before I got it in and all mounted up and practically ready to start.. but I thought, maybe it wouldn't matter..

The ignition system on my 99 is a COP ignition.. and well the 90 is not.. I connected everything as it was on the old block, went to start it and... it rolls over and it tries to start.. I even got it to run and got up to about 600rpm before it back fired and died.. I'm completely stumped and I can't find JACK on this swap any where.. everyone says its impossible cause of the COP.. but why would it try to run and that still doesn't make sense to me considering the firing order hasn't changed on the I6's UGH...

I would be so grateful for some input or direction.

oh btw my front end is not intact so my external temp censer is not connected along with head lights..

When I was trying to start it the EVIC flashed something like "Disconnected Wire" or something along those lines.. would the the temp censor effect that or would it only prompt me if it was mechanical?[/QUOTE]

shifty10

I am new to this forum, and can not find a a tab for posting, so I kinda am highjacking this one, sorry
I have a 2001 Cherokee 4WD automatic, a few years ago, took it to Virginia, just after Christmas, to play in the snow. While up there (I live in Central Florida), at certain speeds,, it sstarted to whistle, and also noticed, that the heat didn't seem to work right. After coming back to the warm Sunshine State. it started out as, if I didn't go over 40mph, it was good, if I went faster, when I took my foot off the gas, it would whistle, after a few years, it is getting worse, does it at almost any speed now, after you let off the gas, the hard part is, after I stop, pop the hood, and try to locate my "Teapot" I have less than two miutes, because the sound stops,

Eagle564

Ya it was a bit more than i wanted to spend. Now my only concern is the Sye install. And what xj driveshaft ill need. Isnt there a chart somewhere that showed different year xjs had different length front shafts? Or can I just go take any old one i want? Id rather not have to install the sye and then have to measure and hope our picknpull has a shaft I can use.

brdavis9

Thanks! I bookmark threads a lot. But this was the first time for me to bookmark a post (plus I saved the pic' to my local drive). Woot!

(No, I didn't ask the question. And I'm not looking for an SYE. But I didn't know either, not really. And someday I might: who knows lol.)

jeepcherokee99

I have the same problem. Iv found its either a vacuum leak, throttle body gasket, or intake manifold gasket.

Bretts2000XJ

Trying to find out if my 8.25 rear needs LSD additive? Anyway to find out I looked in my om and nothing?
Edit disregard found info I was looking for

sycoglitch

Easy. Jack up rear spin tires. See if they both go in same direction or opposite. Same direction it lsd

Bretts2000XJ

Nice thanks

trakr

What years of HP D30s have the same axle shafts as the 00-01 LP D30s

salad

297x U joints became standard in 1995, previously you had to get ABS-equipped units. They're all interchangeable though, your 00-01 shafts will fit into any YJ, MJ, XJ, or TJ. 95+ XJs and TJs are the same shafts.

salad

Fair enough - junkyard shopping is bery inspirational

salad

So your WJ's electronics won't start? Might want to try the Grand Cherokee section dude. What's an EVIC? Lol

For reference tons of people swap old new engines into their 2000+ XJs which are also coil-on-plug

NewKindOfClown

Are you saying all XJ/MJ/YJ/TJ D30 shafts are interchangeable, or are you saying 95+ are interchangeable and can also be used in pre-95s?