Originally Posted by dickiehemp

-They do make a photoshop "lite" which has some of the functionality

-I've heard great things about Solid Works but never tried.

-Inventor is cool. It has a metal function where you build vector "cages" and then assign materials from a list of AISC materials. From there it lets you miter, chop, extend the material. And say a measurement change came back, you can change the "cage" and that right down the list will adjust everything (new material sizes, miters, and also will repopulate the parts list. Even goes a step further, had I prepared drawings before the change, it would retro fit the drawings too.

It's awesome IMO. I'll post some of my work.

I have a WARN bumper that I am going to remove and sell, but I'm not handy enough to take it off, measure and put it back w/o raising my wife's blood pressure.

Originally Posted by brdavis9

That's not what it should look like.

...when I did it the wrong way (twice! lol), mine looked like that. After going back and reading the whole thread (RTFM lol), I found the comment by Freegdr with the corrected procedure.

Third time's the charm.

It should look like this:

When you press the "D" button with your left hand, push the conduit in with your right hand. Keep pressing the button with your LH index finger, and reach down with your LH thumb and hold the conduit in while keeping the "D" button down and take your right hand off the sliding conduit. Using your [now] free right hand (while keeping the "D" button down AND the conduit pressed in), pull the throttle body lever ALL the way counter-clockwise (which the only way it goes lol) ...it will go lots further this time lol. Now release the "D" button and the conduit ...the conduit snaps out. Relax the throttle body lever back to it's neutral position (both hands are free). Pull it again. You'll hear a click sound: that's the sound of it adjusting properly.

Test drive.

YMMV ...but during my [second] test drive, the shifts were smooooooth as silk. The power stayed in the curve up entire grades (even steep hills). Nice.

Enjoy.

Originally Posted by Cherokeekid4x4

If I have to press down far on the gas pedal to get it to go at a somewhat decent speed, could that be my tps? And the cause of my 7-8 mpg? My jeeps always been "slow" now I know it's not a race car but compared to my sisters 96 xj with 216k it's slow as @@@@. Feels like its just sucking the gas while there is no power going. It's a 94 country with the 4.0. Also sometimes when I'm trying the speed up sometimes the tranny might stick at 2500 rpm and then shift a couple seconds later. New o2 sensor, fuel filter, recent tune up, fresh oil, air filter. It's been like this for awhile.

Originally Posted by DieselD

Clean out the throttle body

Check your tranny fluid

Pull plugs and check gap

Check fuel pressure

Just throwing some things out there.

Originally Posted by Cherokeekid4x4

Still don't think I got it. I don't get what your supposed to hold other than the button down while to hold the throttle wide open. All I did was hold the button. Push the thing. Up . Kept finger on button and turn the throttle. Heard some clicking. Got as far as I could let it go then did it again and didn't hear a click. But doesn't matter anyways that's not my problem lol

Originally Posted by brdavis9

...check the picture out I posted. There's a black piece sticking out from mine (which the cable goes through), that's not sticking out in yours ...that is the thing you need to push in on while holding the button down (really, it's the point of the whole exercise lol). In the original post, it's called the "conduit".

...so: you've not even seen that tho'? - Time for you to get out the PB Blaster (or WD40, Freeze-Off, whatever), and give a shot to the button itself, and the housing, and the place where your cable comes out of. The conduit appears to be frozen in there: you need to get it loose (it's the part that "sets" the actual length of the cable adjustment to the precise amount needed by the tranny).

Here's a link to a ...Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7A7k2ZGvMQ ...he misses part of the procedure (he doesn't continue to hold the conduit - the black, sliding, cable housing - in, while pushing the throttle body lever, but you can see him pushing the conduit in at least ...which is the part portruding from beneath the release button housing, and is missing in your pic'.

...I think yours is just all gummed up, the conduit is pressed all the way in (maybe the PO tried this, and got it stuck in there) and isn't sliding at all. Use some penetrant, and loosen the thing up (I don't see rust, so I can't imagine it's anything other than just gunk keeping the conduit from sliding).

If the penetrant doesn't loosen it up, maybe try using a pair of tweezers or thin needle-nose pliers to grip the end of the conduit and pull it out manually (while pressing the release button on top); just make sure it's well soaked with penetrant. The conduit should slide freely, like the cable does when you pull the throttle body lever.

When your transmission shifts gear, you shouldn't feel anything, really, from the trans ...it should just transition - best way to describe it - in a barely noticeable and very smooth manner from one gear to the next. If you're getting a "crisp feel" to the shift, it's, well, wrong lol.

...it's worth taking a few minutes to resolve it. Grab the WD40!

Originally Posted by tekno

Hello,

I'm trying to wire up an aux input through the cd changer plug on my oem Chrysler P05269484 (Alpine) deck in my '98 XJ, but can't seem to find any info for this model. Has it been done before? I did found some info for the Infinity units but the cd changer plug on the alpine has a diffrent pinout.

Cheers!