dukie564

easiest way is to email your VIN # to jeep and ask for a build sheet.

Seeing as you have power locks you probably do.

99bluexj

Yes, I rolled the dice on that one and only changed the strainers since they were significantly cheaper. In retrospect I should have done the filter/regulator too while I had the tank off. But live and learn.

Thanks again for your response. I'll check the fuel pressure and go from there.

dukie564

Also, when a 1997 to 2001 Cherokee won’t start on the first try day after day, the first thing to suspect is a failed check valve on the fuel pump. It is an EXTREMELY common issue on your year cherokee. The fuel pump check valve is supposed to hold pressure in the fuel line while the engine is off. The check valve is located on the fuel pump and located in the gas tank. A failed check valve allows the fuel to drain back to the tank. This results in the following symptoms:

SYMPTOMS

· Longer than normal cranking times
· Never starts on first try, almost always starts on the second try
· Rough idle for a few moments of idling
· Rough running for first ½ block of driving
· Little or no fuel pressure at the fuel rail test valve similar to this -

1- Key in on position; fuel pump primes for 2 seconds then stops. 0 PSI
2- Cranking over the engine. 2-3 PSI
3- Engine starts and idles for 20 seconds. < 5 PSI
4- Engine idles and fuel pressure creeps up to 45 PSI.


POSSIBLE CAUSES

· Failed check valve on the fuel pump in the gas tank.
· Leaky fuel injector(s) may be the true cause of your problem, but more likely they are simply contributing to the check valve issue.

Testing of the fuel injectors should show if any are faulty and are allowing fuel to drain into the cylinder. Either problem can allow heat soak to vaporize the remaining fuel in the fuel rail and you may be dealing with a bit of vapor lock as well, especially in warmer weather.

1. Connect the gage at the fuel rail and start the engine. The gage should read 49 psi plus or minus 2 psi.

2. Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line just ahead of the fuel tank. Watch the pressure gage and see how long it takes to loose pressure.

If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank - probably the check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably a leaky injector.

There are a few solutions to the problem –

1. Turn the key to ON for 5 seconds and let the fuel pump prime. Turn the key to OFF, turn the key back to ON for 5 seconds, start the engine.

2. Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds, pause, and crank the engine again. It will almost always start on the second try.

3. Replace the fuel pump assembly in the gas tank. The check valve is not a separate part and cannot be serviced. This is both expensive and time consuming because you have to remove any hitches and skid plates and then remove the gas tank from the vehicle.

You can use solutions 1 or 2 for as long as you want to, they do not harm anything and the fuel pump will continue to function for many more years.


If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality OEM style unit. Some cheap aftermarket assemblies, like Airtex, don’t hold up and fail completely within 12-18 months. .

Gryphon439

It does not flash a code on the CE light, but when you read the computer it's bad. I'm just relocating it and calling it done.

sycoglitch

Really the computer will still have a problem with it. Sucks

levi

Will I have any problems with water when it rains if I run my intake under the windshield near the wipers

Axtion1981

I have an oil leak that is running down and dripping from the oil pan. Its either the rear main seal or valve cover gasket. Any suggestions which it is most likely?

Jeep95

Check your oil filter too! I though my oil pan was leaking until I looked more into I and it was just my oil filter. Which made me happy. Easy fix.

LaredoLarry

What is the functional difference between the two? Is it only fog lamps that are installed on the bumper aftermarket or is it heard of to install driving lamps there as well? Once wired, are there any ways besides adding a relay and toggle switch to turn them on?

MassHoleClassic

I have a HUGE Problem, I stupidly cut a wire under my dash tonight when trying to put in a rear speaker box, one set of wires was labelled speakers so that is what I should had cut but when reaching for my cutters, I must had grabbed the wrong wires grouping and snipped it and now all my internal power wont work. I tried to reconnect it but nothing... Im color blind so i dont know what color the wires are but it was under the dash and connect by some black little plastic thing... IF i had to guess the color would say yellow and blue or purple... Please help, instrument panel doesnt light up and radio wont turn on nor the the dome light.... I think I ****ed up big time.

jeepkyle

i have an 87 or 89 jeep wagoneer not the full size but the xj version...i was wondering whats the newest year engine i can stick into it ...im trying to get the newer 190 hp engine in it from a cherokee will it work? and what year will fit in it? and if so will i have to replace tranny also and use the newer one and will that work with it and fit right

dukie564

Fog lamps have a yellow hue and a wider beam pattern to cut through dense fog. Driving lights just add additional light like headlights, and are clear/white.

You must run a relay and switch to turn them on, alternatively you can eliminate the switch and have them turn on with your headlights - but that limits your control over them.

dannywaaz

alright, here's a "will it fit" question. Will an 87 or 89 (not sure which year off hand) renix motor header fit on a 2k high output motor?

dukie564

No matter what, an OBD-I 4.0HO is going to be the easiest swap, so shoot for that. This guy outlines the swap very well:

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/v...php?f=9&t=7659

dukie564

no the ports and mounting are completely different