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CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Summerville, Ga
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: New Jersey
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
If you don't have access to a welder take the wrench and t60 to a shop and ask them to weld it up for you. Buy whoever does it a coffee and you'll be on your way.
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So I had my transmission rebuilt about 3 years ago. In the mornings when I first start it up and put it in reverse it moans. As soon as I put it in drive it goes away. Anybody know what that could be? Also I bought some Lucas oil automatic transmission conditioner, do you think that could help?
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
The reverse gear in almost every transmission is straight-cut, which tends to be quite noisy. Have you changed the build since the rebuild? Does it to it when the transmission is hot? I wouldn't recommend the Lucas stuff to anybody unless you're trying to get one more week out of something until you rebuild.
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Chesapeake Beach, MD
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Funny you say your mechanic said you couldn't adjust the castor on your jeep, mine told me the same thing and it pulls to the right hard, have had it aligned twice
Seasoned Member
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Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The reverse gear in almost every transmission is straight-cut, which tends to be quite noisy. Have you changed the build since the rebuild? Does it to it when the transmission is hot? I wouldn't recommend the Lucas stuff to anybody unless you're trying to get one more week out of something until you rebuild.
CF Veteran
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
Sounds like you went to a shop as bad as the one i went to. Got to a reputable 4wd shop or one you know works on lifted vehicles often. Even if your jeep isnt lifted.
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Try changing your fluid with the correct stuff. Not sure which transmission you have... 42RE is supposed to be ATF+3 only, 45RFE is ATF+4. Try the Grand Cherokee-specific forum section
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2012
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well if you are wanting to stay at 6 inches yes go with RC 3 inch full leafs. Or these ( since I can't find just 3 inch springs) won't look to bad with a little extra in the back that's how mine was. Then it settled. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=XSP
I went with the (non rc) 3.5 leaf packs.
Seasoned Member
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Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Lucas Transmission Fix? That stuff ain't a conditioner lol. It's basically red molasses... I wouldn't want that crap in any hydraulic system
Try changing your fluid with the correct stuff. Not sure which transmission you have... 42RE is supposed to be ATF+3 only, 45RFE is ATF+4. Try the Grand Cherokee-specific forum section
What's up guys Im in the market for a winch I'm leaning towards a superwinch and I want to run synthetic rope that won't break the bank something around 8000lb to 10000lb any suggestions are welcome
I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport 4.0L v6. Ever since i got my baby 5 years ago, i've had problems with misfire codes..usually its the first cylinder and the plug has gotten really nasty, so I replace it and its fine.
When I start my jeep, the engine runs rough, I can hear a knocking, and it seems like the same thing as when my first plug is bad (like its skipping a cylinder). Sometimes if I let it run for a few minutes, the knocking goes away. Other times when I let it run, the light starts to flash. This happened again when I was leaving work tonight, and after letting it run for like 10 minutes the knocking wasn't getting any better and I chanced it and drove home. Probably 5 minutes down the road the knocking was completely gone.
I have been screwed over by a lot of different mechanics with this problem, and have paid to replace the coil pack, the o rings around the fuel injectors, and had a mechanic try to tell me that the knock in my engine was because i needed an oil change. (i may be a girl, but i'm not an idiot..and I had just had the oil changed)
Essentially I'm looking for some insight to what is actually going on. I'm 600 miles from home at school, and don't have any choice but to take it somewhere and get it looked at, but I really don't want to get screwed over again. I spent $400 last month to get the same problem "fixed" and I'm right back where I started, and can't afford to shell out another $400.
When I start my jeep, the engine runs rough, I can hear a knocking, and it seems like the same thing as when my first plug is bad (like its skipping a cylinder). Sometimes if I let it run for a few minutes, the knocking goes away. Other times when I let it run, the light starts to flash. This happened again when I was leaving work tonight, and after letting it run for like 10 minutes the knocking wasn't getting any better and I chanced it and drove home. Probably 5 minutes down the road the knocking was completely gone.
I have been screwed over by a lot of different mechanics with this problem, and have paid to replace the coil pack, the o rings around the fuel injectors, and had a mechanic try to tell me that the knock in my engine was because i needed an oil change. (i may be a girl, but i'm not an idiot..and I had just had the oil changed)
Essentially I'm looking for some insight to what is actually going on. I'm 600 miles from home at school, and don't have any choice but to take it somewhere and get it looked at, but I really don't want to get screwed over again. I spent $400 last month to get the same problem "fixed" and I'm right back where I started, and can't afford to shell out another $400.
CF Veteran
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport 4.0L v6. Ever since i got my baby 5 years ago, i've had problems with misfire codes..usually its the first cylinder and the plug has gotten really nasty, so I replace it and its fine.
When I start my jeep, the engine runs rough, I can hear a knocking, and it seems like the same thing as when my first plug is bad (like its skipping a cylinder). Sometimes if I let it run for a few minutes, the knocking goes away. Other times when I let it run, the light starts to flash. This happened again when I was leaving work tonight, and after letting it run for like 10 minutes the knocking wasn't getting any better and I chanced it and drove home. Probably 5 minutes down the road the knocking was completely gone.
I have been screwed over by a lot of different mechanics with this problem, and have paid to replace the coil pack, the o rings around the fuel injectors, and had a mechanic try to tell me that the knock in my engine was because i needed an oil change. (i may be a girl, but i'm not an idiot..and I had just had the oil changed)
Essentially I'm looking for some insight to what is actually going on. I'm 600 miles from home at school, and don't have any choice but to take it somewhere and get it looked at, but I really don't want to get screwed over again. I spent $400 last month to get the same problem "fixed" and I'm right back where I started, and can't afford to shell out another $400.
When I start my jeep, the engine runs rough, I can hear a knocking, and it seems like the same thing as when my first plug is bad (like its skipping a cylinder). Sometimes if I let it run for a few minutes, the knocking goes away. Other times when I let it run, the light starts to flash. This happened again when I was leaving work tonight, and after letting it run for like 10 minutes the knocking wasn't getting any better and I chanced it and drove home. Probably 5 minutes down the road the knocking was completely gone.
I have been screwed over by a lot of different mechanics with this problem, and have paid to replace the coil pack, the o rings around the fuel injectors, and had a mechanic try to tell me that the knock in my engine was because i needed an oil change. (i may be a girl, but i'm not an idiot..and I had just had the oil changed)
Essentially I'm looking for some insight to what is actually going on. I'm 600 miles from home at school, and don't have any choice but to take it somewhere and get it looked at, but I really don't want to get screwed over again. I spent $400 last month to get the same problem "fixed" and I'm right back where I started, and can't afford to shell out another $400.
You'd probably be better off starting an actual thread for this. Could be a number of things and we'll need to know more about the problem and more about what's been done already. Also your engine is Inline and not a V configuration.