cruiser54

Probably not. Unless of course it didn't let the trans shift out of 2nd gear or something.

NewKindOfClown

Anyone with a good writeup for replacing a Renix distributor? Idiot-proof, please. I wanna make sure I do it right.

sycoglitch

Anyone

cruiser54

Do this first:



Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC
　

With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. Mark the 0 with chalk or white-out.You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark it with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.

Then this for installation:



Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.

Revised 07/03/2012

straightsixjeep

I came across a thread stating to remove the positive cable and touch it to ground for 30 seconds.
edit: CJ7-Tim on JF said this:
Not far off from this info that has been posted before.

Info from a JEEP Technician -

This very simple procedure will Erase the “Adaptive Memory” stored inside the PCM and allow a new “Adaptive Memory” to be developed.

After performing this procedure the PCM will re-learn and store into Adaptive Memory your engines performance characteristics.

Please perform these steps exactly as they are written, in the order they are written. This will cause the adaptive memory in the PCM to be erased and cause the PCM to go into Fast Learn Mode adaptive mode.

Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground ( not the battery negative terminal ) for 30 seconds. The engine block or the A/C compressor pump will work as a ground. This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory.

Reconnect the Battery Cable
Turn Ignition Switch to the “ON” position but DO NOT start the engine
Turn Headlight “ON”
Turn Headlights “OFF”
Turn Ignition Key “OFF”


The PCM Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM.

When you start the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables that come with the PCM from the factory.

When you get the engine up to operating temperature the PCM will start to collect data for the “Adaptive Memory”.

The PCM will collect data for Adaptive Memory for the first 50 Warm-up Cycles.

NewKindOfClown

Thanks, cruiser. It says cut a window in the old cap, and install a new one at the end? Why do this instead of simply waiting to install the cap at the end?

sycoglitch

My only curiosity was if the negative battery cable remains attached to the battery. I'm believing yes but wanted to make sure

straightsixjeep

Most people are saying to only remove the positive cable and touch it to ground, either the ac compressor or a chassis ground. I added to that last post. I may reset my ecu now.

sycoglitch

I have the quadratec write up on it. Jut had to double check to be sure. Thanks. I never done it after I changed up my intake setup so is figure I give it a go. And also two weeks ago I broke te vss so I ran without a speedo for a week so my fuel system was screws up cause of it and hasn't fully recovered

straightsixjeep

Now is the time to do it then! I will reset mine when I replace my upstream o2 and/or get neon injectors. Good luck! Let us know how it works.

sycoglitch

Great so I'm the guinea pig. Ill probably do it after I see my girl off to work then ill bang it out. I was hoping cruiser had one of his many magical write ups lol or dukie was awake.

straightsixjeep

It seems like Dukie says to touch the cables together -
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ok-...set-ecu-71560/

Heres the JF thread with CJ7-Tims comment half way down the page-
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/r...sed-xj-899735/

another - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/b...et-ecm-548305/

and another - http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=9402

CJ7-Tims method seems to be the way to do it.

Eagle564

Alright well oreillys and autozone refused to go out and check for codes since its not causing a check engine light. They told be even with OBD-II it will force the check engine light on. So even after arguing they still said no point.

On a side note, this thing in the pic is buzzing and makes alot of eletrical noises. And I can feel a clicking in it when I touch it. Just curious as to what it is.
And there is another plug in there next to it but it has never been plugged in to anything. I just assume it goes to something on a higher trim model.

Also aired my tires up to around 33lbs since they were around 26-28lbs. Maybe that'll help a little with the terrible mpg. Air filter is still near perfect too.

odgreen

Evap purge sol

straightsixjeep

Mine makes a loud ticking on and off as well, is this normal for the evap purge solenoid?