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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I've spent a week looking for an answer so I hope you can help. 2001 Cherokee, replaced - coil rail, all injectors(4 hole), re flashed ecm $$$, new plugs, crank position sensor and shaft. I still get misfire codes and low pressure evap. leak codes. Starts good and idles good. When I accelerate hard engine starts missing and stumbling. Won't go past 2500 rpm until I turn the key off and back on. Then it runs great until I accelerate hard again(as in passing). restarting always corrects the problems. 195,000 mi. Uses no oil of radiator fluid. PLEASE HELP.
Codes:
P0305 #5 cyl misfire
P0302 #2 cyl misfire
P0303 #3 cyl misfire
P0300 random cyl misfire
Freeze Frame Data: (all 4 are the same)
Fuel sys 1 cl
Fuel sys 2 cl
Calc load(%) 59.61
ECT (F) 203
STFT B1(%) -0.78
LTFT B1(%) 4.69
STFT B2(%) -1.56
LTFT B2(%) 4.69
MAP(inHg) 0.00
ENG RPM 0
Veh Speed 35
Started eng cold and hooked up my scanner. I let the eng warm up to 210 deg F reving it up to 3000 rpm ocationaly to simulate excelleration. Codes did not appear untill I pushed on the gas peddle. when I turn off the key and then back on it runs smooth untill i excellerate.
Last edited by StillRiding; 03-31-2013 at 06:30 PM.
No, I don't lick fish.
Hey guys couple questions.
1. Is this a 8.8 rear? It's in a 91 windstar. Build sheet says it has lsd also. (I'll be building it for me jeep so that will come out.. But still)
2. If this is a 8.8 I'm getting it for free. Would it be better to build this rear than my c8.25? Or is the c8.25 stronger than the 8.8?
Thanks everyone
1. Is this a 8.8 rear? It's in a 91 windstar. Build sheet says it has lsd also. (I'll be building it for me jeep so that will come out.. But still)
2. If this is a 8.8 I'm getting it for free. Would it be better to build this rear than my c8.25? Or is the c8.25 stronger than the 8.8?
Thanks everyone
As to your second question - if it's for you 2000 XJ, it should have a 29 spline 8.25 which is pretty strong - some would say about as strong as a D44, but I don't know about that... I don't know what the spline count of the axle shafts are in the Aerostar so I don't know what to tell ya there...
Sounds like it may be worth your while to build up what you have or go find an 8.8 out of a ranger or explorer
Last edited by Basslicks; 03-30-2013 at 10:26 PM.
No, I don't lick fish.
looks like a sound-deadener - just keeps that portion of the floor from resonating... similar to putting a small piece of deadener on a drum head - just helps absorb the "ring"
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
Tune up was very recent and doh.. Dunno why I thought o2s your right. I guess I'll just go around and clean/test everything up. Since there are no CELs it's hard to say
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
Well, the first year for a windstar was 1995 and they were all front wheel drive - are you sure it's not an Aerostar? If so, it may have an 8.8 if it's 2wd, or a 7.5 if it's AWD - but the Aerostars are coil-sprung so you would have to cut off the spring perches and weld on leaf spring perches... even if you're going for coil sprung, you would have to modify the factory perches because the perches don't sit on top of the axle.
As to your second question - if it's for you 2000 XJ, it should have a 29 spline 8.25 which is pretty strong - some would say about as strong as a D44, but I don't know about that... I don't know what the spline count of the axle shafts are in the Aerostar so I don't know what to tell ya there...
Sounds like it may be worth your while to build up what you have or go find an 8.8 out of a ranger or explorer
As to your second question - if it's for you 2000 XJ, it should have a 29 spline 8.25 which is pretty strong - some would say about as strong as a D44, but I don't know about that... I don't know what the spline count of the axle shafts are in the Aerostar so I don't know what to tell ya there...
Sounds like it may be worth your while to build up what you have or go find an 8.8 out of a ranger or explorer
I figured I would have to cut the perches off of any axle to swap it but since it would be free I figured why not. But it wasn't the 8.8 that's worth anything...
And yeah I guess it was an Aerostar. All I know is the things are junk lol but my friend at work has bought 2 of them now
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Location: Colorado
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Year: 1992 Cherokee Sport
Engine: Bone-Stock 242
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Year: 1992 Cherokee Sport
Engine: Bone-Stock 242
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Qld Australia
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Year: 1998 "Sport" White Wagon
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6cyl
Hello Thank you for the Reply re the Steering Fluid Leak! Re the Two Pipes I have written down the Info! pisces3737
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Year: 1998 "Sport" White Wagon
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6cyl
If transmission fluid is coming out of the dip stick hole then it's either way overfilled or overheating.
The power steering fluid should be an easy fix. There's only 2 hoses that could be leaking. Both go from the pump to the gear box. I'd guess that you either have a leak in the sector shaft seal or in the high pressure hose.
The power steering fluid should be an easy fix. There's only 2 hoses that could be leaking. Both go from the pump to the gear box. I'd guess that you either have a leak in the sector shaft seal or in the high pressure hose.
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Year: 1998 "Sport" White Wagon
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6cyl
31/3/13@3.06pm EST Australia. Hello! lowrange2! Thank You for your Reply! & Information.. I have written this down. Surely the Mechanic can do this Job! in at Least 30mins????? They Repaired the Transmission Cooler Hose... I went out & Bought a 2nd Hand Tranny Stick & the Problem was worse! So checked the Hoses & the Hose they Repaired is Wet! & the Hose Next to it has a leak at the Bottom.. I have written down what you have Helped me with! Surely!!!!!!! They can Replace the Hose or is it 2 little O Rings Rubber??? Of course the Leak is going to be Blown Back on the Hose & L/side of the Motor , on the Plug leads & to the Rear Wall of Engine Bay! First Up they charged $178. to Repair the Transmission Hose,Tranny Oil & Labour = $340. I will Obtain a Quote as if they try Hit me Up for another $340... I recon that is a Bit Rude!!!! I watched a Video on Y.tube & it did take the Guy approx 10 mins to do the Job!!!!!! & I sent their Business a Copy of the Video Just In Case They say! " Oh! its a Half a Day Job!".. I m from Queensland Australia . & Actually! Love Driving my Jeep! lol lol It sure Goes along Fast! & Has Plenty of Grunt!!! lol ( do keep in Contact lowrange2 Ok! & Thank You for Helping! pisces3737 P.S I recon because I am a Female the Mechanic's may think a Soft Touch!!!! Mmmm!
No, I don't lick fish.
Info from: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970
I've referenced that thing so many times I can't even count anymore... if you ever loose the link, just google "Everything you ever wanted to know about the AW4" and it will be the first thing to come up without fail
If you have a 1990.5-1996 XJ:
- 1987-1990 AW4s are bolt-in... as long as you also swap the input gears in your transfer case, or the whole transfer case. Remember that the NP231 input gear cuts changed in 94 or 95 and that the rear output of the transfer case changed from 95 to 96 when selecting a donor. I would NOT suggest this swap unless in dire straits (need to get off the trail, need to get to work tomorrow or be fired, etc) as you are limiting yourself to a rapidly disappearing selection of 21 spline spare parts in the boneyards.
- 1990.5-1996 AW4s are bolt-in.
- 1997 AW4s are bolt-in, except you have to cut and splice the wiring harness connector. Again, 5 butt-splice crimp terminals and a few minutes and this is done. You may need to add custom wiring for the transfer case indicator lamps (see this bullet under the 87-90 section, above.)
- 1998-2001 AW4s require more work. All the transfer case input gear info from 1990.5-1997 applies, on top of that, the sensors have changed! You can either build the circuit given here by lawsoncl or swap the transmission tailhousing, sensor drive rotor, and output speed sensor as shown here by Frank Z to make this work. You may need to add custom wiring for the transfer case indicator lamps (see above.)