sycoglitch

Pm sent

salad

Maybe it was broken before and now suddenly works?

Those warning beeps usually correspond to an indicator on the gauge cluster. Have you tested the cluster to verify that all of the lights are working?

Check out this test procedure here, I imagine it will be different for diesel models as the glow plug indicator is lit up, etc:

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/gau...2/#post2326449

Eagle564

So 2 days in to the lift now and finally getting to my front brake lines. I don't understand where these go.

It came with some brackets and screws but I don't understand what to do. Remove the current bracket and remove the hose going to the caliper? Then connect the new hose? The connection to the caliper has a big screw going through it though? And Where would I put the new bracket?

arorton

Just a note to the guy complaining about the beeps, every vehicle I've owned has done that as you turned the key to the on position and my 97 has done the 5 beeps since I bought it.

tssguy123

This looks fine right? I tried twisting it at the longest part I could find (behind the fan shroud) and I couldn't get it more than 90 degrees..

No cracks..

wiggles

Looks pretty worn to me, I'd change it

straightsixjeep

A lot of people go by the 90* twist rule which is what works for me. If you go to tight you can wear out the belt or put added stress on any component the belt runs off; ac, ps, alt, water pump... You want it just tight enough so that it doesnt squeel. Your belt looks like it has some wear marks in it, did you check the ribbed side for cracks? Either way its time for a new belt if you have never replaced it.
edit: you can also see the belt starting to fray on the outside edges.

ae1978

This may sound stupid, but did you put the key in the drivers door and turn it both ways. I have seen this work before. Just a thought.

ScikoFaery

If I want to test if I have a bad injector or bad wiring do I have to pull everything apart to swap 5 & 6 or is a quickie thing I can do in the parking lot? I wanna make 100% sure its a bad injector before I shell out the bucks. Also what do u use as a heat shield from the exhaust? 2000 XJ 4.0 thanks yall (:

ScikoFaery

Pulled a p0205 code btw when I went to advance it doesnt act stupid until its warm then I get random rough idling and wonky throttle response...ive run two bottle of cleanet thru the gas also

tssguy123

Alrighty.

ThatPurpleXJ

What do you guys think of this oil? It's been 1500 miles and a month and a half since the last oil change with service pro 5w-30 and a wix filter. Smells just a little burnt too.

salad

Mine looks like that after a few days lol. Does it smell like gas? If you're concerned I'd look under the valve cover for sludge and do a compression test.

salad

You'll need a decent parking lot. To swap injectors you need to remove the fuel rail completely.

- 8mm or 10mm socket (can't remember)
- quick-connect tool for the fuel line
- some rags
- small slot screwdrivers
- petroleum jelly
- some sort of pressurized air (can of duster works)
- MIGHT need new O-rings
- tape & pen or marker to label injector harness

I'm sure there's a writeup on here somewhere... look up injector swap or injector upgrade how-tos, the steps are identical except you're only swapping two around and you don't need to reset the PCM's short term memory.

Behaviour that shows up only after warming up, is usually related to O2 sensors, vacuum, or a bad CTS, HOWEVER you should ALWAYS chase the code first! Obvious before subtle

ThatPurpleXJ

Its a little more black in person. The reason I'm concerned is recently my few leaks I have got real bad and I ran the jeep 3 quarts of oil low for maybe 100 miles. I topped it off yesterday and it didn't seem as dark. I'm slightly worried I may have done something bad to the bottom end.