dukie564

It is low. Is this when fully warmed up (10-15 minutes of driving)? It's possible someone installed a 160* thermostat in your jeep at some point. Not the best idea for a colder winter state. I would go the route of replacing the thermostat with a stock 195* one. If the cooling system is operating properly this should be perfect. Cherokee's like to run about 205* in the summer, about 190* in the winter.

You're probably not getting the best gas mileage with it running that cold either.

Is it throwing any engine codes?

U-BOATXJ

Well give it a try man. If you do it just rig it with a switch that you can kick on during hard acceleration.

kevin11111112

hey i have a 96 xj and i am getting a clunk in my drivetrain when im driving in 4th and overdrive (aw-4 trans) and i am told it is my transfer case, and that something may be loose in there. are transfer cases easy to work on? any similar problems? could different fluid or lucas help? thanks

bravododger

Ive been thinking. How long would an XJ last with front and rear (correctly) welded diffs if wheeled off road only, no rocks. Say 31's budget 3" lift. Just looking for generalites here. And yea. I know all about the positives and obvious negatives and how cheap lunchbox lockers are.

Ninja edit. I put this in the wrong thread. Oops. Any moderators wanna move it.

rpa

I have an 89 cherokee 4.0l that won't crank sometimes when temperatures get below 20 deg or so. Using a timing light connected to a spark plug wire it either doesn't indicate any fire to the plug or is intermittent. Once if finally cranks it will re-crank just fine. I tested the Crank Shaft Position Sensor using a procedure for RENIX engines I found on this site. The resistance of the sensor is 190 ohms which is pretty much in the center of the range. The voltage when cranking the engine over is 0.3 Volts. According to the procedure it says the voltage should be between 0.5 and 0.8 volts. It says if it is less than 0.5 volts to replace the sensor. My question is, Will the low voltage cause the cranking problems only at very low temperatures? I don't want to replace the sensor, then retest the new one and find it also measures 0.3 volts and still have the same problem.

96xjclassic

Yes this is after about 10-15 of driving. It is very possible someone put in a 160 thermostat in it I just got like a month ago. Luckily I know the previous owner, so I will ask.
Very true my gas mileage is not very good, not sure exactly how bad yet though.My heater takes forever to heat up also.Do you think that is why, or should I flush the heater core?
I do not have a code reader,sorry newbie here. I think my buddy might though.

rocko

Any advice on a good set of control arms for my cherokee? Its simple, 3" RC lift w/31's.

OBXJ01

This might be it! I changed the power steering pulley when I changed the pump. Thanks I'll check this out.

OBXJ01

The belt tension is right. I am checking to make sure all the pulleys are lined up now. Maybe this is the problem. Thanks for your help.

kgbigwheels

I just pulled out the starter, replaced it with a new one, getting 12.3 V on both the battery and starter yet the starter still wont crank, any suggestions as to where I go from here thanks,

Dexter

sycoglitch

When you turn your key do you hear the starter click once. Not the dead battery sound but a single click. Also is your rig automatic or Manuel

jaredb

What are the national seal numbers for the front axle seals on a xj cherokee with the vacuum disconnect? Driver and Passenger side.
Thanks

azxj99

How do I clean my iac on my 99

Thedude

I've been thinking of getting a D44 rear axle for my XJ, can i fit that on a 4.5 inch lift with 32" tires? or would the differential be dragging?

Hoosier

Thanks for providing a place for rookie questions. I recently bought an 01' Limited, 4.0L, Auto, leather interior, all stock.

It idles at 600-650 RPM (via dash gauge). Is that low? What's the correct number?

I have a rattle that I can't find. It doesn't rattle if I give it a little gas and get the RPM up to 700-750. So I'd like to fix the RPM...if it's out of range...and then pretend the rattle never existed.

The searches on the Forum yield a ton of posts to sort through. Is there a top 50 or 100 thread list?

EDIT: One more concern - I have a "whine" above 15mph. Sound's like a wheel bearing but a higher pitch. I put her on a lift and the wheel bearings are tight. Front and Rear diff level's are good. Of note - Tranny seems to be 1/2 - 1 quart HIGH on fluid. Would this cause the sound? My plan is to pull the diff cover and inspect. The rig has 138K and the U-Joints look to be original.
When I put it in 4wd and turned the wheel the truck hopped quite a bit. I was in a parking lot (I know that's a no no but I wanted to check) and I only had it in 4wd for 100yds.

Lastly, Is there any way to take control of the ECM and smooth out the fuel curves?

Thanks in advance,
Mike