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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: New Jersey
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
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Location: Apple Valley, MN
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I don't think I'm messing them up on install... But it's a good possibility the bearings are kicking the bucket, as it had been leaking for awhile. How hard would it be to do the bearing with basic tools in a parking lot?
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Location: Carrollton, GA
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Spokane WA
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: ERH 4.0L Power Tech I-6 (HO)
First: let the engine cool down before washing, JIC. I really didn't cover anything, but I didn't use direct spray on anything (fuse box, etc.) that I knew might cause issues.
Shot it full of Simple Green pre- the spray, and used various sizes of stiff brushes etc., on the "cleaner" areas. ...then I used a small Karsher electric (with suds) on both low & high.
I left the hood up to aid it in drying (it was a hot summer afternoon).
No problems. Just let it dry before starting it. I repeated this a second time a few days later (I was more thorough the second time.)
...actually, with the suspension replacement, I've made cleaning out the accumulated crud of the ages underneath one of my Jeep "projects" (one reason I took so long with the suspension is that I gave most associated areas a thorough cleaning, although this was by hand ...'cuz I still need to replace the Karsher, which was a casualty of the move from CA to WA).
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Better to spray it with the motor running so you know if something gets wet. She starts running rough, you stop spraying and find the problem.
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Trying to get my guage cluster out to put leds in.
I've got the dash all apart and the four screws out of the cluster. But it still feels like its being held in. Am I missing something? Its a 99
Edit: Nevermind I got it. Didn't realize it just plugs in. I thought there was a wiring harness. Ya gotta pull it a bit.
I've got the dash all apart and the four screws out of the cluster. But it still feels like its being held in. Am I missing something? Its a 99
Edit: Nevermind I got it. Didn't realize it just plugs in. I thought there was a wiring harness. Ya gotta pull it a bit.
Last edited by DieselD; 04-03-2013 at 04:46 PM.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I THINK that's all it took on my 97.. and iirc, mine was kind of tough to pull out initially as well
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Between "doable" and "physically impossible", depending on the bearing. If it's the main shaft output bearing then pop the driveshaft off, remove the snap rings etc, and remove the tail housing. Then you can work on it on a table somewhere. If you've got problems with other bearings you'll have to remove the case completely.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Between "doable" and "physically impossible", depending on the bearing. If it's the main shaft output bearing then pop the driveshaft off, remove the snap rings etc, and remove the tail housing. Then you can work on it on a table somewhere. If you've got problems with other bearings you'll have to remove the case completely.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
1988 xj 4dr-
Can i adjust the driver front door by loosening the hinges?
When closing the door i have to lift slightly and push for the lock mechanism to engage and close fully.
Can i adjust the driver front door by loosening the hinges?
When closing the door i have to lift slightly and push for the lock mechanism to engage and close fully.
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Manchester CT
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 banger
Ive got a question that searching didnt quite satify, so Im here to pick brains.
Ive got an 87 with a vac disconnect D30. Would converting the disconnect to a cable (to ditch the unreliable Vacuum setup) and then welding the open diff be an option?
The way i understand it is the diff itself is open. normally you wouldnt want to lock it w/o having a way to unlock it for street use. but seeing as the passenger axle shaft is a 2pc, would welding the diff and then using the disconnect to unlock the axle be a viable option?
I know theres more prefered methods, but im trying to keep this as low of a dollar build as possible, and it honestly sees more offroad than on road. (ive got a company vehicle)
Ive got an 87 with a vac disconnect D30. Would converting the disconnect to a cable (to ditch the unreliable Vacuum setup) and then welding the open diff be an option?
The way i understand it is the diff itself is open. normally you wouldnt want to lock it w/o having a way to unlock it for street use. but seeing as the passenger axle shaft is a 2pc, would welding the diff and then using the disconnect to unlock the axle be a viable option?
I know theres more prefered methods, but im trying to keep this as low of a dollar build as possible, and it honestly sees more offroad than on road. (ive got a company vehicle)
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Oregon
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok well Im finished with the lift on day 5 lol. Freaking ridiculous. Anyways hows the front and the steering look? The pitman arm connection to the centerlink is a little crooked but I dunno if that matters much. I haven't been able to drive it yet and I don't have the time to install my quick discos so I'll just leave em off and see how scary it is.
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North Carolina
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Ok... Kinda simple but just can't figure it out. Bought an XJ and wiring is a nightmare. Modified isn't my choice of words. Horn doesn't work and have to get inspected. Been through 2 new push button horns and a load of wires and just wanna get it inspected so want a fast fix for that long then back to it. Both push buttons won't make it work but wired the horn to the battery and it works. Can I straight wire it and what's the best way? My two attempts have failed! HELP!!!
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 banger
Ok... Kinda simple but just can't figure it out. Bought an XJ and wiring is a nightmare. Modified isn't my choice of words. Horn doesn't work and have to get inspected. Been through 2 new push button horns and a load of wires and just wanna get it inspected so want a fast fix for that long then back to it. Both push buttons won't make it work but wired the horn to the battery and it works. Can I straight wire it and what's the best way? My two attempts have failed! HELP!!!
If you just need to get thru inspections, thats what id do is straight wire it in a pinch, then you can take your time to figure out why its not working. But first thought is always easiest, have you checked your fuses?