XJ=mistress

Hey guys just finishing changing my trans filter, and i noticed there is a D roman numeral two on the drain plug. i picked up dextron three to put in the trans when i was done. Is that bolt saying that i need dextron two or will i be fine with putting the three in ?

Thanks in advanced.

straightsixjeep

Quick question guys. My friend has an 87 xj 4.0 renix. He is having trouble with the brakes. He replaced the master cylinder and bled the brakes starting with the passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. I saw the steady stream of fluid coming out the bleeder valve. The brake pedal was pumped and held prior to opening each bleeder screw. The pedal was still soft so we installed a different brake booster which has the pedal feeling firm. Now the issue is that he can pump up the brakes and they hold pressure, but it wont relieve the pressure without opening the bleeders. Could this be the check valve on the booster thats bad? Maybe he needs to bleed them again now that the new booster holds pressure better??

Outlaw Star

Could be a defective booster or a defective proportioning valve (there's a check valve inside). Also some master cylinders and boosters are Bendix style meaning they have an adjustable push rod. If yours was a Bendix style, make sure the rod was adjusted to proper length.

straightsixjeep

Thank you for the quick reply. His booster has the adjustment rod. We pulled a spare booster out of his parts 89' renix xj. Upon installing it the pedal had much better pressure. I thought the proportioning valve was the chunk of metal with metal lines running into it under the booster, towards the engine.

NewKindOfClown

The prop valve is what all the brake lines connect to. It's fed by the master cylinder.

XJ prop valves have a tendency to stop working properly over time, leaving an increasing number of Renix-era XJs without rear brakes. Comanches have a different style with even more problems, ending in the same result.

straightsixjeep

Could a bad proportioning valve cause the brakes to build pressure but then not relieve it without cracking open a bleeder valve?

Outlaw Star

Yes, that's the prop valve. As stated, it has a tendency to fail. But if you swapped boosters and it started working, then you have found your problem area.

salad

Yeah absolutely. If it's not an XJ one it could be MJ or a full-width, might want to ask that before you take a peek.

salad

Dexron II was originally specced, Dexron III/Mercon legitimately supersedes it and is what's in most AW4s. You're fine with your favorite brand of D/M Compatible

HelNbakWarzalot

I have a 95 XJ. I'm in the process of removing the dash for heater core replacement. I'm having trouble removing the windshield defroster vent cover. I removed the three screws along the vents, and the two along the top edge of the glove box. It seems to be attached on the drivers side, but I don't see any other screws. Where are they, or what am I missing?

94XjSport94

If it's an XJ 44 and the gears are done right. $300 is a good deal.
What I was going to type out.

Plug question, that plug doesn't look like one I recognize. Is it on top of the trans or up at the firewall?

Outlaw Star

True as long as its not Dextron V, that's a synthetic. Don't mix synthetics n conventionals. Chose one or the other.

salad

Wasn't aware Dexron V even existed haha

Chrysler thinks ATF+4 works fine on brand new AW4s... anecdotally it causes slipping, and Aisin Warner actually only said D-III/M

XJ=mistress

Sweet thanks salad

luckyunblock

When i hit a hill in overdrive on the highway my jeep seems to go start from OD to passing gear and Im not increasing pedal pressure, any ideas