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Old 04-14-2013, 01:54 PM
  #28711  
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ

Took the hose out of the brake booster that leads into the intake
Running or off?
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94

Running or off?
Running then shut it off since it didn't stall
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:04 PM
  #28713  
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Has it ever been Seafoamed?
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:07 PM
  #28714  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Has it ever been Seafoamed?
Yup bout 7-8 months ago
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:36 PM
  #28715  
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Default Loose wire

I have a 95 Cherokee Sport. For the life of me I can't remember, or find where this wire goes. It's one of the ones I didn't take a picture of. Any ideas? Comes out of the harness on the passenger side next to the windshield washer fluid tank.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:55 PM
  #28716  
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1990 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4x4

I power washed the engine bay mainly on the passenger side in prep for leak repairs. I avoided all major sensors also sprayed the bottom of the engine and the trans.

Ever since then the jeep will not downshift to pass, it will not exceed 2300rpm. No matter if WOT or feather the gas. However in park and nuetral I can rev the engine freely to 5000+ rpm without issue.

First gear gets to 2300rpm, 2nd goes to about 2000 then downshifts into OD and I cant floor it and have it downshift to pass or anything. It downshifts when slowing down to a stop perfectly.

What should I look into?
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:05 PM
  #28717  
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
1990 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4x4

I power washed the engine bay mainly on the passenger side in prep for leak repairs. I avoided all major sensors also sprayed the bottom of the engine and the trans.

Ever since then the jeep will not downshift to pass, it will not exceed 2300rpm. No matter if WOT or feather the gas. However in park and nuetral I can rev the engine freely to 5000+ rpm without issue.

First gear gets to 2300rpm, 2nd goes to about 2000 then downshifts into OD and I cant floor it and have it downshift to pass or anything. It downshifts when slowing down to a stop perfectly.

What should I look into?
If I recall correctly the Renix TPSes for automagic XJs actually have two sides. One feeds throttle position to the ECU, one to the TCU. Test everything with a multimeter.
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ScikoFaery
What is the gap for for spark plugs supposed to be set at? .35 .40 Or .45 im getting conflicting answers and I want to be sure they are the autolite 985's? Thanks
NGK ZFR5N gapped to 0.035"
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

It was binding because 4WD locks the axle shafts together so the wheels spin at the same rate. You aren't supposed to use it on solid ground because it binds. If you had a 242 TC, you could put it in Full Time 4WD and should be okay, but part time should only be used on surfaces that would allow the inside wheel to spin when turning.
Sincr nobody finished this (or I missed this) what he meant to type was drive shafts.

OP since you have an NP242, I would replace the U joints. That transfer case does not lock anything in 4WD Full Time.
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by HeatherJ
New motor on 2000 grand cherokee in January, before we changed the motor jeep had started sputtering and stalling randomly. Always cranked if it completely died tho. In Dec, I ran it hot, cracked the block thus the new motor. Before that, we had the crank sensor changed, timing was checked, then I blew the motor and now this new motor has ran fine, 1214 miles on it and it starts with the ck engine light, a week later the sputtering stalling...I am soo very frustrated. My hubby is working long hours and dosent have time to look at it right now. Should I go ahead and change the cam sensor or is there something else i should ck out first?????? I love my jeep but this bucking, sputtering is driving me crazier than I already am...PLEASE any ADVICE is appreciated...I have researched this code and it looks to me like its a guessing game as to the problem....Thanks from a mama that stays on the go!!!
New motor with old sensors? :|

Camshaft Position Sensor sounds like a good place to start for an OBD-II 4.0L but I have no idea if you have the V8... You should try in the Grand Cherokee section as your vehicles is two model generations away from the Cherokee.
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:17 PM
  #28721  
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Originally Posted by salad

Sincr nobody finished this (or I missed this) what he meant to type was drive shafts.

OP since you have an NP242, I would replace the U joints. That transfer case does not lock anything in 4WD Full Time.
Oops lol
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:21 PM
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Default Missing bolt in transmission face?

Anyone know what kind/size of bolt to use for the area circled in yellow? My 91 Sport seems to be missing that bolt, and I've got a small leak from the area.
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:25 PM
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Went back to my jeep and it started. Ran all the seafoam out and it ran a little better. It stalled once on the way back but other then that good. I'll get a Mopar CPS tomorrow and install it
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
Went back to my jeep and it started. Ran all the seafoam out and it ran a little better. It stalled once on the way back but other then that good. I'll get a Mopar CPS tomorrow and install it
Might not be a bad CPS.

Like i said, test it first. Things are expensive...
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:42 PM
  #28725  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Things are expensive...
Replaced mine and didn't tie back the wires. Replaced it again after they melted to the downpipe. $150 later, my CPS is fixed.
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