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Old 01-22-2011, 03:06 AM
  #2866  
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
Thats not normal, its running about 10 degrees too hot. It should run at about 88-90 degrees Celsius. The stock gauges aren't dead on but they definitely work okay. Mine runs 90 degrees Celsius anytime I'm driving down the road and would(prior to removing the clutch fan) stay at that temp even sitting still in 32 degree weather(Celsius of course).

Did you backflush the cooling system when you flushed it? It sounds like you may have some build up in your cooling system that is causing it to run a little hot, other than that you've already replaced pretty much everything else that would cause that problem. I'd also suggest cleaning off the exterior of your radiator, they tend to accumulate crap over time that can seriously diminish air-flow and thus cooling capacity.
Hey mate, thanks for the quick reply.

I have given the radiator exterior a brushing down. Back-flushed it as good as I could.

Would you recommend another flushing? That stop leak stuff is horrible, really.

I was going to take the radiator completely out and have it flow tested but for the life of me, couldnt figure out how to remove the bottom transmission hose from the radiator! We needed the truck running ASAP, so this is as far as I have got for now.

Cheers
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Old 01-22-2011, 03:13 AM
  #2867  
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Originally Posted by Battle Scar
Hey mate, thanks for the quick reply.

I have given the radiator exterior a brushing down. Back-flushed it as good as I could.

Would you recommend another flushing? That stop leak stuff is horrible, really.

I was going to take the radiator completely out and have it flow tested but for the life of me, couldnt figure out how to remove the bottom transmission hose from the radiator! We needed the truck running ASAP, so this is as far as I have got for now.

Cheers

I would say back flush the radiator, bock and heater core until the water runs clear out of all three, doing them independently would probably give better results than flushing them as a system.

How do YOU go about flushing a cooling system, different people have different methods and there are certain ways that work better than others.

I'd also say take a hose with a decently powerful nozzle(NOT a pressure washer) and spray down the outside of the radiator from the front and back until the water coming off of it is clear also.
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Old 01-22-2011, 03:19 AM
  #2868  
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
I would say back flush the radiator, bock and heater core until the water runs clear out of all three, doing them independently would probably give better results than flushing them as a system.

How do YOU go about flushing a cooling system, different people have different methods and there are certain ways that work better than others.

I'd also say take a hose with a decently powerful nozzle(NOT a pressure washer) and spray down the outside of the radiator from the front and back until the water coming off of it is clear also.
I used some Radiator Flush solution by the directions... Then....

I ran water from the radiator cap opening, to the bottom, then from the top to the bottom (of radiator).

Into the top of the block to out of the waterpump.

I did brush down the radiator core and then washed away with a hose, but I could have probably done a better job than I did.

Hose had enough pressure as far as I know, throughout this whole process.

Heater was open the whole process also.
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Old 01-22-2011, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Battle Scar
I used some Radiator Flush solution by the directions... Then....

I ran water from the radiator cap opening, to the bottom, then from the top to the bottom (of radiator).

Into the top of the block to out of the waterpump.

I did brush down the radiator core and then washed away with a hose, but I could have probably done a better job than I did.

Hose had enough pressure as far as I know, throughout this whole process.

Heater was open the whole process also.
Sounds like you have the right idea, to flush the radiator you want to flush it from the bottom to the top, in the opposite direction of the coolant flow.

If you don't already have one, I'd suggest getting one of these: http://www.farmandfleet.com/products...ource=googleps

They allow you to use all the pressure of the water coming out of the hose to help flush the cooling system and are very simple and easy to use.

Cooling systems aren't very complicated so sometimes overlooking the simplest of things can cause cooling issues.

I'd say just do the best you can to flush it and if that still doesn't solve your problem then your radiator may be partially clogged.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:53 AM
  #2870  
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Finally posting, after reading answers to my questions through this thread for months..
2000 Cherokee will not start. I have all power, I've checked my starter, it is fine. I've replaced my Ignition Switch. It used to do this occasionally, but would eventually go. Now, it hasn't started in 3 days. All I get is a flashing break light on my dash board. It is as if it's not in park/neutral. But, it deff is.
Does anyone have any advice for me?
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Old 01-22-2011, 02:15 PM
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2000 4.o. I just got back with a code P1494 evap vent switch or mechanical fault. Possible cause, aa-1 open or short circuit condition, aa-2 poor electrical connection, aa-3 failed vent solenoid, aa-4 vacuum hose plugged. Any info on my next step will be very welcome.
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Old 01-22-2011, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by zimbobwye
Finally posting, after reading answers to my questions through this thread for months..
2000 Cherokee will not start. I have all power, I've checked my starter, it is fine. I've replaced my Ignition Switch. It used to do this occasionally, but would eventually go. Now, it hasn't started in 3 days. All I get is a flashing break light on my dash board. It is as if it's not in park/neutral. But, it deff is.
Does anyone have any advice for me?
sounds like the neutral safety switch.
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Old 01-23-2011, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by zimbobwye
Finally posting, after reading answers to my questions through this thread for months..
2000 Cherokee will not start. I have all power, I've checked my starter, it is fine. I've replaced my Ignition Switch. It used to do this occasionally, but would eventually go. Now, it hasn't started in 3 days. All I get is a flashing break light on my dash board. It is as if it's not in park/neutral. But, it deff is.
Does anyone have any advice for me?
Try this, turn the key to acc. Put foot on the brake and shift down to one then back to neutral in one motion then try to start the cAr. You might have to do it once or twice. I'm having a problem with my NSS and this is what I have to do from time to time specially when i park in 4wd and the car didn't "sense" me go into pArk
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Old 01-23-2011, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Try this, turn the key to acc. Put foot on the brake and shift down to one then back to neutral in one motion then try to start the cAr. You might have to do it once or twice. I'm having a problem with my NSS and this is what I have to do from time to time specially when i park in 4wd and the car didn't "sense" me go into pArk
Ding ding ding, we have a winner.

The NSS is on its way out so you're probably gonna have to mess with the shifter to get it to start until you can replace the NSS.

^ that crap is why I drive a 5 speed.
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Old 01-23-2011, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ

Ding ding ding, we have a winner.

The NSS is on its way out so you're probably gonna have to mess with the shifter to get it to start until you can replace the NSS.

^ that crap is why I drive a 5 speed.
The lovely starter. One of the many great parts of jeep. I'm trying to get every last bit if life out of it. It sucks that it's true, it gonna eventually die especially after this 10 degree weather

I want to drive a 5 speeder seems like you get more out of the jeep with it

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Old 01-23-2011, 09:03 AM
  #2876  
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Depending what year manual Jeep you get you could have just as many problems.
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Old 01-23-2011, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by rocko
Depending what year manual Jeep you get you could have just as many problems.
Only if you have the BA10/5 Which I do not have.

AX15 FTW.
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Old 01-23-2011, 09:26 AM
  #2878  
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Would a 3.5" full leaf kit be upgradeable to 4.5 or higher? http://www.drivelinecustoms.com/prod...x?ID=827&sc=gb

If so, how?
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Old 01-23-2011, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Nperryman
Would a 3.5" full leaf kit be upgradeable to 4.5 or higher? http://www.drivelinecustoms.com/prod...x?ID=827&sc=gb

If so, how?
2" longer than stock Shackles and 1" Poly spacers in the front
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Old 01-23-2011, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ

2" longer than stock Shackles and 1" Poly spacers in the front
Would that be a real stiff ride ?
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