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Old 04-23-2013, 05:45 AM
  #29341  
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
I know I need an alignment, but here's my question. Both front tires are noticeably wearing on the outer edges. Does that mean they are pointed in at the front or out?
Too much toe in an alignment will fix it all
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Z.paul17
What can make my jeep hesitate while I'm driving then it pops an runs fine
Lots of stuff. Bad plugs, wires, and cap. Dirty throttle body. A sensor out of whack like a TPS.

Loose intake manifold bolts.

When's the last time it had a complete tune-up?
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:50 AM
  #29343  
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Originally Posted by avision
Doorless (bar doors) with a bit at stake, security options?
Put your doors back on. You can get a locking Tuffy box, but they make you more of a target. I just make use of my locking glovebox and clean out anything valuable that won't fit in there.

Originally Posted by Critz2
Just got some aftermarket fog lights, but I am unsure of whether I want to put them in the factory spots or on the top of the bumper. What should I do?
Fog lights work best mounted low and toward the center.
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by askingxforxit
2000 xj

Do I need to recharge my ac refrigerant? It's intermittently blowing cold air. At first when I turn on the ac it blows frosty cold air, then after a few minutes it's like the compressor isn't working. I'll turn off the ac for about 5 minutes and when I turn it back on the ac blows cold like normal with no problems.
I had a similar experience with my '01 XJ. 10 minutes of cold, then warm, musty-smelling air. For me, the issue was the compressor -- if it just needed a recharge, I would expect warm air the entire time.

I believe - and I know someone will correct me if I'm wrong - the issue was in the magnetic clutch that actually engages the compressor. I'm told Sanden compressors (which should be the one on your XJ, unless it's been replaced) are notorious for this. The magnetic clutch overheats and disengages, causing sporadic cooling for AC and defrost. A way to confirm this diagnosis is to firmly tap the magnetic clutch with a chunk of wood (or something non-metallic/magnetic) and see if it starts cooling again. The test isn't 100% perfect -- it didn't work on my XJ, but replacing the compressor was still necessary.

If it is the magnetic clutch, you should be able to replace it instead of the entire compressor. This results in a less expensive fix, but ultimately I read that you'll get what you pay for. Additionally, at the point where you're opening the AC system, you need to collect all the refrigerant, evacuate the line, and replace the dryer. Unless you've got a well-equipped facility to work in, this may be best left to a mechanic -- at which point with the money you're going to spend to get it fixed, it's best to spend a little more and get it fixed correctly.
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:57 AM
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About every other time whenever I start my 99 and don't let it warm up long enough before I drive, it has a lot of hesitation until I accelerate a little hard.

Could this be a dirty/starting to go bad tps? O2 sensor?
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:57 AM
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Hey guys I just changed my oil pan gasket the other day cause of an oil leak that was dropping a fair amount on the under belly. i also decided to go back to my old ways of using 15w 40 oil, I've run it in all my jeep except for my newest one.
Before the change the oil pressure was fluctuating quite a bit from low to high now it barley fluctuates at all, just sits right in the middle and if i floor it just goes to the next small line and then back when i level out.
I just replaced the sensor previous oil change just wondering if thats normal or am i running a high pressure now that the new oil pan seal is in with the higher weight oil ?
Thanks in advanced
98 classic
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
About every other time whenever I start my 99 and don't let it warm up long enough before I drive, it has a lot of hesitation until I accelerate a little hard.

Could this be a dirty/starting to go bad tps? O2 sensor?
Have you tried seafoam in the intake my 98 was doing that when i got it used seafoam and it hasn't done it since.
Aslo wouldn't hurt to clean the TPS
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:10 AM
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Sure haven't, I'm hesitant on Seafoam. Lol.

I'd be willing to bet the TB could use a more detailed cleaning. I rushed thru it when I put my Spectre intake on.

If I remove the TPS I'd have to recalibrate it or something right? Can't remember.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:16 AM
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I'm looking at putting a zj pitman arm on my 97 Cherokee that has a 4.5" lift. My pitman arm seems to torque my drag bar instead of pushing and pulling it smoothly. I also have an adjustable track bar. The drag bar and track bar are NOT parrell with each other. Would this fix the issue ?
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:16 AM
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[QUOTE=DieselD;2432762]Sure haven't, I'm hesitant on Seafoam. Lol.

I'd be willing to bet the TB could use a more detailed cleaning. I rushed thru it when I put my Spectre intake on.

If I remove the TPS I'd have to recalibrate it or something right? .[/QUOTE

Do a good throttle body and IAC cleaning. Best done by removing the throttle body and using a new gasket. You can't clean a TPS bTW. It self adjusts on your model.

How old are your plugs wires cap and rotor?
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:27 AM
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Tune up done about 9 months ago, all Accel stuff.

I'll probably clean the TB when I pull the intake to check/clean the filter.

So I can't clean a TPS, and its self adjusting so I could remove it then to help with cleaning the TB?

The IAC is on the TB? Or is that on the manifold?
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Tune up done about 9 months ago, all Accel stuff.

I'll probably clean the TB when I pull the intake to check/clean the filter.

So I can't clean a TPS, and its self adjusting so I could remove it then to help with cleaning the TB?

The IAC is on the TB? Or is that on the manifold?
Side of the TB closest to the engine. MAP is opposite closest to fender.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by cwabney

I had a similar experience with my '01 XJ. 10 minutes of cold, then warm, musty-smelling air. For me, the issue was the compressor -- if it just needed a recharge, I would expect warm air the entire time.

I believe - and I know someone will correct me if I'm wrong - the issue was in the magnetic clutch that actually engages the compressor. I'm told Sanden compressors (which should be the one on your XJ, unless it's been replaced) are notorious for this. The magnetic clutch overheats and disengages, causing sporadic cooling for AC and defrost. A way to confirm this diagnosis is to firmly tap the magnetic clutch with a chunk of wood (or something non-metallic/magnetic) and see if it starts cooling again. The test isn't 100% perfect -- it didn't work on my XJ, but replacing the compressor was still necessary.

If it is the magnetic clutch, you should be able to replace it instead of the entire compressor. This results in a less expensive fix, but ultimately I read that you'll get what you pay for. Additionally, at the point where you're opening the AC system, you need to collect all the refrigerant, evacuate the line, and replace the dryer. Unless you've got a well-equipped facility to work in, this may be best left to a mechanic -- at which point with the money you're going to spend to get it fixed, it's best to spend a little more and get it fixed correctly.
Thanks for the reply. I was guessing something wrong with the compressor :/ I'll have to test this later today when it's a warmer outside.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by salad

Side of the TB closest to the engine. MAP is opposite closest to fender.
Thanks.

I get all the sensors confused.

MAP can be cleaned out too then?
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselD

Thanks.

I get all the sensors confused.

MAP can be cleaned out too then?
Yeah. I'm doubtful it would really cause your issue in this case but you never know. It's post-throttle plate so it gets filled with all the same crud you find everywhere else thanks to the wonderful CCV
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