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XJ Ask the Question Thread
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well I've had a bad coolant leak for a while. Finally had a reputable place called MACS Radiators check it out. Full system check was only $25 so I couldn't complain too much. Anyways my radiator is cracked bad, which I expected unfortunately. Also my fan clutch is basically dead(which I suspected), and my coolant is dirty and needs a flush(also figured). They quoted me at $724 for all that stuff lol. I can get a new radiator and fan clutch from Oreillys or Autozone for around $150, OEM based stuff though. Is it best to just get some new OEM stuff like that or are there some better radiators for around $150 or less? Not looking to spend a fortune on it since even now it doesn't overheat unless I'm at a stop and it's blazing hot out.
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Well I've had a bad coolant leak for a while. Finally had a reputable place called MACS Radiators check it out. Full system check was only $25 so I couldn't complain too much. Anyways my radiator is cracked bad, which I expected unfortunately. Also my fan clutch is basically dead(which I suspected), and my coolant is dirty and needs a flush(also figured). They quoted me at $724 for all that stuff lol. I can get a new radiator and fan clutch from Oreillys or Autozone for around $150, OEM based stuff though. Is it best to just get some new OEM stuff like that or are there some better radiators for around $150 or less? Not looking to spend a fortune on it since even now it doesn't overheat unless I'm at a stop and it's blazing hot out.
Get better than bottom of the barrel parts. Knock it out that way your coolant system stays good for a while.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Do yourself a favor and just do an overhaul to the whole system. New radiator, radiator cap, water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing if yours is questionable and/or breaks, any hoses that look like they're falling apart replace them, new fan clutch (Hayden from O'Reily).
Get better than bottom of the barrel parts. Knock it out that way your coolant system stays good for a while.
Get better than bottom of the barrel parts. Knock it out that way your coolant system stays good for a while.
The oreilly brand radiator is Murray. They have 2, ones 109.99 and the other is 200 but they seem 100% identical.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Well i was planning on a new radiator and fan clutchn and i already have a new thermostat to go in. The guys said the water pump was good but i might do it just to do it. I was just curious if there was better stuff than just the oem that isnt big $$$.
The oreilly brand radiator is Murray. They have 2, ones 109.99 and the other is 200 but they seem 100% identical.
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
ZJ fan clutch for a cooling improvement, I got my rad from CarQuest, and I haven't had problems (unlike the one from Advance), and Mopar thermostat from the dealer.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Edit: Oh and another dumb question, why would I need a new radiator cap? Does it matter what one I get?
Last edited by Eagle564; 05-02-2013 at 06:25 PM.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Do yourself a favor and just do an overhaul to the whole system. New radiator, radiator cap, water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing if yours is questionable and/or breaks, any hoses that look like they're falling apart replace them, new fan clutch (Hayden from O'Reily).
Get better than bottom of the barrel parts. Knock it out that way your coolant system stays good for a while.
Get better than bottom of the barrel parts. Knock it out that way your coolant system stays good for a while.
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by cruiser54
83501426AC retailed for $23.35 when I bought my last one in January of this year.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alright, so I'm installing my 4.0 into my 86 comanche. I have already heard and read about how they aren't directly adaptable. However, my 93 cherokee mounts made my drivetrain actually sit correctly; almost.
The engine has a slight backward tilt to it. It barely clears the hood in the front, so as is, I would have to trim my hood slightly. I am only worried as to if the oil pick up would work correctly, or would the slight lean create issues?
There a multiple pictures I posted in my build thread if you want to see how much lean there actually is
The engine has a slight backward tilt to it. It barely clears the hood in the front, so as is, I would have to trim my hood slightly. I am only worried as to if the oil pick up would work correctly, or would the slight lean create issues?
There a multiple pictures I posted in my build thread if you want to see how much lean there actually is
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Alright, so I'm installing my 4.0 into my 86 comanche. I have already heard and read about how they aren't directly adaptable. However, my 93 cherokee mounts made my drivetrain actually sit correctly; almost.
The engine has a slight backward tilt to it. It barely clears the hood in the front, so as is, I would have to trim my hood slightly. I am only worried as to if the oil pick up would work correctly, or would the slight lean create issues?
There a multiple pictures I posted in my build thread if you want to see how much lean there actually is
The engine has a slight backward tilt to it. It barely clears the hood in the front, so as is, I would have to trim my hood slightly. I am only worried as to if the oil pick up would work correctly, or would the slight lean create issues?
There a multiple pictures I posted in my build thread if you want to see how much lean there actually is
The 4.0 is pointed upwards from the factory in the later years.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I can't tell if its leaning too much though. I was comparing it to my 97 and it seems to tilt more than that one does
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
It looks a little more angled than the stock setup. Should be okay, it's not like a 4.0 can't take an incline.
The auto and manual crossmembers I believe are different heights. I think I read here that the manual ones give a slight life to the tcase in auto-equipped XJs. Might help you out a bit