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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Vail, AZ
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Baltimore, MD
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Hey Everyone,
I have been searching trying to figure out what is going on with my Jeep, and got some info, but I was hoping someone could maybe help narrow things down.. I have been running with a low idle for a while.. not to the point of stalling, but not smooth either. (Fluctuating just under the line below 1000 rpms...) I decided to change the spark plugs, not knowing how long its been since they were changed. The plugs that were in there were Bosch.. I switched them out with Champions. (483's) gapped at 35... I added some oil ( it was a little low, but not bad) and tightened a few of the valve cover bolts that had a little more play than I would have liked. When I went to start it up, it started ticking and the oil pressure gauge flew up and pinned at 80... I shut the car off right away... Any ideas what could cause that? The car starts up and idles fine for the 20 seconds I have it running...lol... No CEL... As far as I can tell, all the wires are hooked up and in good shape. Ugh...
Oh! I have a 2000 Cherokee 4.0
I have been searching trying to figure out what is going on with my Jeep, and got some info, but I was hoping someone could maybe help narrow things down.. I have been running with a low idle for a while.. not to the point of stalling, but not smooth either. (Fluctuating just under the line below 1000 rpms...) I decided to change the spark plugs, not knowing how long its been since they were changed. The plugs that were in there were Bosch.. I switched them out with Champions. (483's) gapped at 35... I added some oil ( it was a little low, but not bad) and tightened a few of the valve cover bolts that had a little more play than I would have liked. When I went to start it up, it started ticking and the oil pressure gauge flew up and pinned at 80... I shut the car off right away... Any ideas what could cause that? The car starts up and idles fine for the 20 seconds I have it running...lol... No CEL... As far as I can tell, all the wires are hooked up and in good shape. Ugh...
Oh! I have a 2000 Cherokee 4.0
It sounds like you have a couple problems. Idle Air Controller (IAC) and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) issues are very common. Normal idle is about 750 RPM. Toss a search into Google with "site:cherokeeforum.com" and you'll find a lot of writeups on how to clean them and test the TPS. You may also have a vacuum leak. Also a few writeups on this.
As for your oil pressure, the sending units are notorious for going out and reading very high. Do you have a pressure reading from it with the key in RUN but the engine not going? That's a pretty good sign. You can remove the oil pressure sending unit (located near the filter - common to get bumped) and use a mechanical testing gauge to check the real pressure. Probably just need a new unit, but it's important to be sure.
Last edited by salad; 05-09-2013 at 08:13 PM.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Alright now that my dd. is running tip top again
I am Looking at getting a slip yoke from RR
They have a standard sye and a super short
Whats the pros and cons between the two?
Im building a four link in the rear just curious as to witch one would better suit my application?
5.5 of lift tons and 42s
I am Looking at getting a slip yoke from RR
They have a standard sye and a super short
Whats the pros and cons between the two?
Im building a four link in the rear just curious as to witch one would better suit my application?
5.5 of lift tons and 42s
Here's a super short, regular, and stock setup with TJ drivetrain.
Cons would be cost and you'd probably need a custom DS (or maybe a long ZJ one if you drive an automatic with a large rear axle)
These guys have some more info: http://www.jbconversions.com/product..._short_sye.php
Last edited by salad; 05-09-2013 at 08:42 PM. Reason: typo
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Well you know what a normal one is fore, the super short ones are helpful to battle vibes at more extreme driveshaft angles, like you'd see on a SWB like a TJ, or if you have a lot of lift.
Here's a super short, regular, and stock setup with TJ drivetrain.
Cons would be cost and you'd probably need a custom DS (or maybe a long ZJ one if you drive an automatic with a large rear axle)
These guys have some more info: http://www.jbconversions.com/product..._short_sye.php
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Cuyahoga Falls
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
So if harley went from 4 to 5 means they would haves had redisgn their braking system, which they did not
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
The fluid. Polyethylene glycol DOT 3 and DOT 4 soaks into stuff and you can't really get it out without doing a ton of flushing. Even then I wouldn't feel comfortable unless I KNEW that all of my hoses were DOT 5 compatible (cheap 17 year old ones are probably only barely compatible with the old stuff) and I got new seals.
Higher boiling point is very good for motorcycles and any heavy duty application like that. DOT 5 is fine if your components are all new. If you really wanted to, you could replace everything in your XJ and switch... but there's no reason.
Higher boiling point is very good for motorcycles and any heavy duty application like that. DOT 5 is fine if your components are all new. If you really wanted to, you could replace everything in your XJ and switch... but there's no reason.
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Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Plus, what's wrong with just dumping dot3 in there and being happy until next flush down the road. Dot3 works well for everyone here
Senior Member
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Location: Cuyahoga Falls
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Yes it may work well and everyone is using it for yrs bla, bla, bla. I dont do what everyone else does, I look to improve what everyone else does. And dot 3 is out of date, needs to be forgotten about and everything switched to dot 4.
Just wondering what you guys are paying for DOM tube. I need to build a cage for a lemons racer, 1.75x.120 dom, and don't want to get reamed for materials, but I don't usually buy my steel for my other misc projects. So what's a decent price per ft? 8$? Higher? Lower?
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Manchester, N.H.
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by mcd58
thanks for the help. i read the instructions again and noticed that i was trying to install the bracket the wrong way. it is all installed now and sounds great. now its time for new speakers.
Newbie
Join Date: May 2013
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
reverse gear
Hey I just got into my first Cherokee its a 97 4.0 sport with a 5 speed..when I am parked or come to a stop with my foot on the clutch and shiftto reverse it grinds and sometimes wont go in I usually have to put it into first and pull forward a bit then it will go into reverse...and same way if I back out of say a parking spot then going into first is a bit sticky...synchro damage or is there something easier to fix thankyou so much!!!
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: sioux city nebraska
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
so my 93 4.0 has a bad lifter tick. we replaced the valve cover because the old one was bent and oil leaked out. it ran dry once because of this. we might be able to get our hands on a new engine but honestly i don't know if or when we would get it. so what could be replaced or fixed maybe?