lunablue

Well, I already cleaned the IAC and the throttle. I had had a check engine light on and cleaning those made it disappear.. From what you're saying, the idle was about right, maybe just a tad low. I will do a pressure reading with the car in run. Will it harm the car for me to drive it like that?
I had read something about the computer having to reset itself...but since I had the battery disconnected while changing the plugs, I'm not sure that would be an issue. I haven't let it run for more than 20 seconds or so because the oil gauge freaked me out..lol..

lunablue

[QUOTE=salad;2458153]What is a Champion 483? The model of spark plug that's supposed to be in there is RC12ECC, or you can use NGK ZFR5N.

Oh, and it is model # RC12ECC... 483 means that its just the plain copper ones...

salad

Ah, good stuff

If it is legitimately that high it would be harmful. You'd notice a lot of noise from lack of lubrication (yes I know it's a Jeep, I mean more noise than normal). Turn the key to RUN without starting the engine and see what the pressure reads as. Probably 30 or 40

salad

So run DOT 4 lol. DOT 3 is only as out of date as the XJ's braking system is. It's not exactly "good" or anything

salad

Grats on the XJ! Excellent choice on a manual. Reverse is not synchronized in the AX-15 so sometimes it will take some arguing to get into reverse (shifting to second then reverse usually works quite well for me)

First gear synchro going out is extremely common on these things. The synchronizers are brass and Chrysler screwed up a TSB that resulted in fluid that is corrosive to brass being filled by dealers during maintenance. You should confirm that your clutch is releasing all the way though. With the engine running in neutral at a stop you should be able to pick any gear and pop in and out of that gear repeatedly without any change. So if your first gear shift sucks, do 1-N-1-N-1-N-1. If the 3rd and 4th attempts are not butter smooth and feel more like the first attempt, you probably need to bleed the clutch.

Otherwise you can rebuild the tranny or enjoy the world of double clutching

Since it's a brand new to you you would do very well to change the fluid in there. Could be WD-40, could be hydraulic oil. It'll take most of 4 quarts of a good manual transmission fluid like Pennzoil Synchromesh, Royal Purple Synchromax, Royal Purple 75w90, or Redline MT-90. Do not fill with regular API 75w90 GL-5 gear oil as the GL-5 additives kill synchros.

sapperills

Oh man thankyou very much thats relieving a fluid change is next on my list to do if only all that kind of stuff was free...I guess only in the world of perfect

Beandip777

I am having a vibration in my engine at about 2500 to 3000 rpm when in park and a vibration when in reverse. I have changed the motor mounts and tranny mount. The balancer looks good so I am at loss here. I saw an old post of a guy on here that said he narrowed it down to his torque converter?

XJ=mistress

Awesome thanks salad !!

donkeypunch

Don't know if this has been answered yet. My supplier sells 1.75x11ga DOM tubing for $108 for 24' stick.

T1XJ

lets say i had a 97+ donor xj with 5 speed, complete, and also a 93/94 zj shell, could i swap the complete engine/tranny/transfer case/ wiring harness/ computer etc over relatively "easy"? using xj pedals or do i need zj or homemade pedal brackets?

main question basically is how much fab work would it be if i have a complete donor, or does the donor make it so possibly the hardest part would be figuring out wiring and pedal brackets?

just an idea i'm looking into

cruiser54

Define "easy"

lunablue

If it is legitimately that high it would be harmful. You'd notice a lot of noise from lack of lubrication (yes I know it's a Jeep, I mean more noise than normal). Turn the key to RUN without starting the engine and see what the pressure reads as. Probably 30 or 40[/QUOTE]


Ok, so went out this morning, the pressure reading with the key to RUN was around 15... Decided to drive it to work (less than 2 miles away). The ticking sound almost sounds like its coming from the dashboard (though I know its not). Kinda reminds me of when you turn on a gas stove and you get that ticking noise... The tick gets faster as I increase speed (duh) and you can hardly hear it once I get to around 40mph. The car is still idling rough at stops and almost bucks a little when at low speeds..like when coming to a stop or just accelerating from a stop. The oil gauge stayed at almost 80 pretty much the whole time except as I was on my way home, the car seemed to "lag" a little, the pressure dropped to 60 and then went right back up. The car kept going, didn't stall. When I got home, there was a burning smell coming from the front of the car, but no smoke, and it dissipated pretty quickly. Temp stayed around 210...

salad

Yeah thats fine. The engine makes 0 pressure when not running. Time for a new sensor

lunablue

Yeah, probably better to just replace it... Guess the car got jealous I was spending so much on the cooling system... had to start throwing me other problems... :/
Could the ticking have something to do with changing the spark plugs? I put some stuff on the threads when I was putting the new ones in, but I didn't add any grease where it connects to the boot... Should I have? Guess I will take off the rail again today and see if all the plugs are snug enough.. I find it suspicious that the ticking started right after changing the plugs...

Jamie57

I know the drag link bar is a solid bar on the ZJ and much stronger but is there any difference worth getting the ZJ tie rod bar and tie rods?